Plumbing question

[Anovack]

I have only had AIO tanks and am trying to do the plumbing on a build for the first time. I was curious the advantages or disadvantages of the bulk heads, valves, etc having them slip x slip or slip x thread. Not exactly sure what the best method is. I appreciate any guidance or advice people can share.


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[mr_X]

Personal preference is the short answer. I like threaded bulkheads because I like to be able to take apart my plumbing if need be. A bulkhead glued on both sides better not leak!

 

[Anovack]

Then is threaded for the purpose of attaching a union?


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[Anovack]

Nvm the unions are slip slip.....would a one inch Union fit a one inch gate valve? Or does one need to be bigger or smaller to fit? I know this is a elementary question but wanted to check


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[mr_X]

They are the same, however, you'll need a piece of pipe in between.

 

[Anovack]

Do you think I could get away with doing 1 inch holes for both intake and return on a 40B? I have the 48mm diamond bit from brs for their schedule 80


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[Anovack]

Also if you get a ball valve that is thread x thread what is the piece called that screws into it. Having a hard time visualizing and finding it


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[mr_X]

Yes, 1" plumbing is fine, depending on the size tank we are talking about. For a big tank I'd go 1.5" or possibly more.

Plastic Pipe Fittings | MSCDirect.com

 

[Anovack]

Mr x....do these fittings take the place of unions? If unions are meant to help take apart it seems if I used those fitting it would be redundant to put unions on. Is that correct?


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[Anovack]

I believe you already answered my question above...my apologies..not sure why I am having such a hard time with this lol


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[mr_X]

No. Once this is glued in, you won't be able to unscrew it.

 

[Anovack]

Should I put a gate valve on my return? I am planning on using a eheim 3000 so I will be able to adjust flow and feel the max push out for the pump is perfect accounting for head loss.


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[mr_X]

The pump has it's own valve on it. You don't need a second valve. Did you drill this tank or use a HOB overflow?

 

[Anovack]

I am drilling. I have the hole saws just waiting for a drill guide to come in and give me some assistance. Just built the stand tonight. Technically the framing and am debating on using T11 plywood but for me it kind of gives off a cheap look so looking at oak or pine for the outside of the stand and doors. Hopefully will have drilled and plumbed by next weekend. Thinking of starting a build thread for a newbie like me to look back on.

 

[mr_X]

Yes, do a build thread! Why would you not? BTW, use finished plywood. It's a little more money, but way nicer than T11. As for your return pump gph, you only need enough gph going through the sump to feed whatever you have in there. In other words, if you have a skimmer with a 600 gph pump on it, you need 600 gph going through the sump in order for it to be at maximum efficiency. The same goes for any reactors you may have. Since the tank is drilled, you do not have to match the overflow exactly, but just have less gph than it can handle. Depending on which overflow you use, you may want to put a little less gph through it so it quiets down.
Some people believe you need "dwell time", so that the skimmer and/or reactors have time to clean all the water in the sump before it's returned to the display, but I believe that this is hindering the performance of the skimmer. I've always fed my components what they can handle. I mean, why put a 600 gph pump on something and then recommend you only feed it half that?

 

[Anovack]

That's some good info mr x, thanks. To give you a better idea of the set up......I bought a internal overflow rated for 60 gallon tank but after I traced out my hole saws and sc80 bulkheads it is clear that overflow box is not long enough to house my 1" (emergency) and 3/4"(primary) sc80 bulkheads (herbie method). I am now getting a overflow box rated for 120 gallon tank on brs. This should house everything and give me enough room. I have an unused eshopps pk 75-100 hob skimmer but plan on getting a vertex 150. I should be able to get enough flow. I hope. Again never done a sump design.

Is there a kind of finish or primer I should use that can handle the moisture? A little worried about that. If need be I can always plug a fan in the side of the stand. Have thought about that.

Thanks for the help mr x. I research non stop but it's always nice having someone with experience and willing to answer exact questions I have!

 

[mr_X]

You can paint the inside of the stand with outside paint if you like. That's protection enough. You may still need to cool the system down due to the lighting and pumps in the summer months, and a fan may be a good way to do that.
Will you leave the back open? Are you implementing a refugium, and if so, will you run the light opposite the display? I would try closing most of the back of the stand if that's the case, so you aren't lighting up the room at night.

 

[Anovack]

My plan is to do the pluming first then when that's done cover the back and run the fuge light opposite to help keep ph balance and such.

Looking into what to use for a cushion under the tank. Possibly some insulator type?

 

[mr_X]

I have never used anything, but people suggest a piece of foam insulation.

 

[Anovack]

Mr x....if my male thread adapter to my threaded bulkhead doesn't go all the way in will the glue hold be enough to prevent leaks?

Also on one of my bulkheads, the side in the aquarium has a slip to plug in a elbow. I have a 90 degree with on side with a spigot so it could slide in. This piece fits in and has a slight wiggle, who knows maybe 1/32 but it can slide around with ease. This is my emergency flow. Will glue help or do I need s new elbow?

Opposite problem with my primary drain. The spigot side won't even get in. Should I sand it down? Are some pieces never exact making this happen? Figured there molds and accurate