Substrate for New Tank

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laurelhed

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
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Jan 3, 2012
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Location
Fullerton, CA
Hello!

I am currently cycling a planted 10 gallon freshwater tank with 2 Sunset Platies, 2 otos, 3 Julii Corys, and will be adding 6 Chili Rasboras. I live in Southern Calufornia where we have pretty hard water; pH 7.4 straight out of the tap.

I currently have aquarium gravel as a substrate as it is my seed material, but I need something softer for the Corys. I'm considering pond sand as it is soft and the fishes colors would pop against the dark substrate.

Any thoughts?
 
Pond sand? I have never heard of that I'm just assuming its sand from a pond. I don't know anyone that has used pond sand but you never know of what it might contain. It could have all sorts of nasties in it that you don't want in your aquarium. To stay safe I would just buy some fine aquarium gravel. That's what I did and my cories are fine.


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Either the gravel or a sand would be fine. You dont really need any special substrate for cory cats. 9 times out of 10 their barbels wear away because of poor water parameters.
 
Sand is much cleaner and more natural. I always use estes marine sand on all my clients' tanks (don't worry, it won't mess with any chemistry). It is clean and requires no maintenance.
 
Keep an eye on your water quality bc you will be over stocking, if you follow the 1 inch 1 gallon. I could be mistaken though.

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Keep an eye on your water quality bc you will be over stocking, if you follow the 1 inch 1 gallon. I could be mistaken though.

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The inch per gallon rule is not very reliable, due to variable bioloads, and activity levels between fish. But you are right, the tank is heavily stocked.
 
Agree. The 1" per gallon thing is only a guide and only really for what are considered small fish. For instance you shouldn't put one 30" fish into a 30 gallon tank!
 
Stocking has more to do with water changes than volume. If they have space and you keep the nitrate under 20ppm they will thrive.
 
So it's not exactly a bad thing to have over stocking? Depending on the type offishes that are in the tank affect the bioload?

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Correct, except it's not overstocking. The way most people think of stocking is wrong. They think x gallons means you can have a certain amount of fish. That is wrong. The size of the tank is a factor of course, but experiments have shown that the growth of the fish is dictated by water quality, not tank volume. If you do a lot of water changes you can have twice as many fish in a 29 as you can have in an under-maintained 75. Watch the nitrate, it will tell you if the water quality is where it should be. Other than that it is just a matter of the fish not being crammed into the tank.
 
Correct, except it's not overstocking. The way most people think of stocking is wrong. They think x gallons means you can have a certain amount of fish. That is wrong. The size of the tank is a factor of course, but experiments have shown that the growth of the fish is dictated by water quality, not tank volume. If you do a lot of water changes you can have twice as many fish in a 29 as you can have in an under-maintained 75. Watch the nitrate, it will tell you if the water quality is where it should be. Other than that it is just a matter of the fish not being crammed into the tank.
Youre overgeneralizing it imho. The recommended stocking levels are there to have a manageable bioload without too much nitrate production. People have keyed this in to attempt to shoot for a weekly water change in order to have acceptable parameters. Combining that with packing too many fish into a tank will create conditions for a disease outbreak.
 
Maybe try pool filter sand? In a planted tank you can keep a lot more fish but keep up with weekly water changes!


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Don't add more fish until your tank is staying stable. Tiny fish , like Chili Rasboras need stable conditions.

And a 10 gallon is not enough for space for three Julii Cories, they should have at least 20 long IMHO.

The only Cories that fit in a 10 gallon in my opinion are the pygmy species such as C habrosus.

I don't think you really have room to add any more fish but that is my viewpoint.

Add more plants and keep testing your water.


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Youre overgeneralizing it imho. The recommended stocking levels are there to have a manageable bioload without too much nitrate production. People have keyed this in to attempt to shoot for a weekly water change in order to have acceptable parameters. Combining that with packing too many fish into a tank will create conditions for a disease outbreak.

I know this is the basis of it, but stocking based on volume in effect ignores water quality (not intentionally, but most of the time that is where the focus goes). What I am talking about gives you a legitimate, measurable value that measures exactly how well your water changes match your bioload. I think the other way makes it way too easy for people to get in to the very dangerous mindset of 'I am within the stocking guidelines and my fish look fine so I am good to go'. With what I recommend they can't do that. They have to look at nitrate and can't be in denial about their water quality. Certainly the guides should be considered and be a starting point, but if people test nitrate and stock accordingly they may find they need to do more water changes, or that they are doing a great job and have room for more fish. Either way they will actually know.
 
Agree. The 1" per gallon thing is only a guide and only really for what are considered small fish. For instance you shouldn't put one 30" fish into a 30 gallon tank!


The 1" per gal "guide" is an extremely outdated piece of advice. When advanced hobbyists really got on board to the WC/bioload portion of the industry, things changed drastically from what was once considered the "only" way to do things. This "rule" ranks in on my top ten list of worst aquarium advice available.


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I know this is the basis of it, but stocking based on volume in effect ignores water quality (not intentionally, but most of the time that is where the focus goes). What I am talking about gives you a legitimate, measurable value that measures exactly how well your water changes match your bioload. I think the other way makes it way too easy for people to get in to the very dangerous mindset of 'I am within the stocking guidelines and my fish look fine so I am good to go'. With what I recommend they can't do that. They have to look at nitrate and can't be in denial about their water quality. Certainly the guides should be considered and be a starting point, but if people test nitrate and stock accordingly they may find they need to do more water changes, or that they are doing a great job and have room for more fish. Either way they will actually know.
Again, youre over generalizing. Nowhere anywhere does anyone say "stock this number of fish and never test again" its a guideline for people who dont k ow what they are doing to follow. Of course you beed to test your water.

Lets assume for a minute that a person follows your advice to the letter. They stock a tank with fish and water change according to how their parameters change. The only problem is that fish grow. That level of stocking quickly overloads the tank with nitrate causing a need for multiple weekly water changes.
 
Correct, except it's not overstocking. The way most people think of stocking is wrong. They think x gallons means you can have a certain amount of fish. That is wrong. The size of the tank is a factor of course, but experiments have shown that the growth of the fish is dictated by water quality, not tank volume. If you do a lot of water changes you can have twice as many fish in a 29 as you can have in an under-maintained 75. Watch the nitrate, it will tell you if the water quality is where it should be. Other than that it is just a matter of the fish not being crammed into the tank.


Overstocking is simply what the word describes. The way that "x" gallons dictates the number of fish you can have is fairly spot on IMO. Not many folks are in the hobby to have fish for a certain period of time only to turn around and send them elsewhere. If so, everyone would be a breeder and not be able to move their stock.

Fish growth is based upon both water quality AND tank volume. If you were to argue that it is one OR the other would be equal to saying the carnie goldfish is perfectly fine in the bowl you won it in. Just be sure to have a 75 gallon sump with 4 HOB's and 2 canister filters.

As for stating their is an ability to keep twice as many fish in a 29g well kept tank and less in an under-maintained 75g and backing it up with "fish not being crammed into a tank" is a highly contradictory statement at best !!!


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I am not trying to make an issue of this. It is just way too often that you see people asking and sharing advice about stocking and in the entire conversation nitrate never comes up.

Again, I am not telling people to crowd every fish they can as long as they can barely keep the nitrate okay as long as life never happens and they never miss a water change. I am just trying to let people know there is another very important side to think about when stocking. It is not just the volume of the tank but it is also water quality. A very well maintained tank can handle more fish than an under-maintained larger tank.

If they are testing the water and the fish grow their numbers will tell them if there is a problem long before any issues come of it. They simply do a larger water change every week. They shouldn't ever need to do multiple water changes in a single week just to maintain the status quo.

My point is not to have people overstock but just to realistically think of overstocking in the right way. If they have their space, they aren't crowded, and the water quality is where it should be, they aren't overstocked. If the fish are crowded but the water quality is perfect, they are overstocked. If the tank is 'understocked' according the guides but they neglect it and never do water changes then the tank is overstocked.

"Just be sure to have a 75 gallon sump with 4 HOB's and 2 canister filters." This is not true. Filtration never compensates for a lack of water changes.

Experiments have shown that water quality has more to do with growth than volume does. it was done with discus in two separate tanks. One was something like a 20 that they did daily water changes on and the other was a 55 or 75 or so that they didn't do any on or they were only once per week. The ones in the 20 grew well, they grew at the normal rate that young discus grow. The ones in the larger tank barely grew at all, if at all. The lower water quality, not the lower volume, significantly affected their growth.

This doesn't mean the fish don't need a certain minimum of actual space, it means that it is not the 55 that keeps an oscar at 8", it is the lack of water changes that keeps it from outgrowing that tank.

The 29 and 75 example is to show that we think of a certain volume being able to handle a certain amount of fish. In general a 75 can handle a lot more fish than a 29. But if that 75 is neglected it can't even handle as many fish as a properly cared for 29. It being a 75 is no excuse to keep more fish in it when your water changes don't even keep up with what is in it now.

Definitely start with the guides, but watch your water quality too. As you get the hang of things and you and your tank progress then if you are properly maintaining the tank, the fish have their space, and the water quality allows for it, then don't let a loose guide or rule of thumb hold you back from getting more fish as long as you keep things reasonable. Whatever you do make sure you watch your water quality, it is essential no matter what else you do.

Again, sorry, not trying to start anything. Thank you for making me clarify myself, I didn't mean for it to be taken the way it obviously was by some. And I didn't mean for this to get so long.
 
Wow, this thread took a turn at post #5. Not sure how stocking levels are relevant to changing substrate.
Anyhow, it is worth mentioning that since the current substrate is the "seed" material and the tank is in the process of cycling, then any substrate switch out should occur AFTER cycling is complete. Being overly cautious, it might be a good idea to remove portions of the current substrate over a period of time rather than all at once. This will allow the BB in the filter to gradually take on the load of nitrogenous waste.


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