Tank Algae Guru Needed!

[Lovegasoline]

Sorry to hear circumstances are happening at the worse time.

The comment about blocking light is fine to do on the glass of the tank. Not absolute for the window. Just usually an easy fix to keep light rays from hitting the tank.

You can do a 100% black out on the tank by covering the glass and any area light could seep through for 3 days. Don't feed the turtle for a couple days. To keep nutrients to a min. level while treating the tank with the black out.

Big water change after to remove dead algae.

Phosguard can be ordered online. It can come ready done in a pouch maybe 100ml size or buy specialized bags to add larger amounts to. Also not needed today. But would be a wise investment for the future.

If you clean out 100% water change. Keeping the ceramic media if the tank is cycled would be for the health of the cycle of the tank. Possibly causing damage to your turtle and requiring more water changes to keep him in a safe zone of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. That is the importance of not bleaching it.

After 100% water change the algae should be killed off by the UV unit. Eventually eliminating the problem.

You could have a broken unit ??? Bad bulb if it is the kind that come with one, maybe?

Plants can be ordered by mail. Later.

What is the point of treating the algae in the tank if I'm harboring an algae infused and infested basket full of ceramic media, which will likely function as a safe haven and starter culture for the algae to resume it's reproduction? One step forward two steps back?

I'm just not understanding the logic behind preserving the infected ceramic media. maybe I don't know what I'm talking about, but it seems like operating to cut out cancer but leaving huge cancerous tumors intact to continue growing.

???

 

[Lovegasoline]

I agree with what Caliban has stated. Good advice for the OP!




The last thing that you want to do is bleach the biological media. You don't want to kill off the beneficial bacteria. That's a big no-no, and it will only make the problem worse. In terms of the UV sterilizer, I have the exact same model and it did the job for me. My green water issue was not as grand as your's, but it cleared my tank in 1-2 days. Your issue is the abundance of light and the large amount of nutrients and wastes for algae to feed on. How about moving the tank away from the window? That way you can still have light in the kitchen. If you don't address the underlying problem, you'll continue to have green water, even with the UV sterilizer.

If the tank gets moved, it gets moved out into the street on the curb ...
because there's no other functional place for the tank, which is why it is where it is.

The tank has been in that window for 12 years and never with the sort of algae nightmare I have now. Nothing even remotely close.

People here are responding to a different situation than the situation with the constraints that I'm facing. Might as well suggest I put my turtle in my non existent pond and have a contractor rebuild the exterior walls of this building to install additional windows.

I mentioned I've got a frickin' CRISIS here because I need to have this kitchen presentable with a clear tank by 6pm TONIGHT. No 'ifs', 'ands', or 'buts'. I'm in a NYC apartment there's no where to move this tank to. It is staying where it is, period. If the tank is green and the light to the kitchen window/tank is blocked, I've got MUCH bigger problems than turtles or algae. Is this understood??? It doesn't appear to be by the responses I keep receiving. It's solving someone else's problem, not my problem. It's maddening.

I have put a black cloth behind the tank and it will remain there for 2 hours. At 6pm the tank must have clear water (100% water change) and the kitchen must be filled to capacity with sunlight.

I dpi appreciate all the input and help, but please read before you post and understand my constraints. I need creative solutions ... and may need to endue towards the invasive and dangerous end of the spectrum. My back is up against the wall.

 

[Caliban07]

What is the point of treating the algae in the tank if I'm harboring an algae infused and infested basket full of ceramic media, which will likely function as a safe haven and starter culture for the algae to resume it's reproduction? One step forward two steps back?



I'm just not understanding the logic behind preserving the infected ceramic media. maybe I don't know what I'm talking about, but it seems like operating to cut out cancer but leaving huge cancerous tumors intact to continue growing.



???

Maybe it's time you gave up the turtle. This situation is clearly becoming increasingly stressful for you and it's going to take some perseverance in order to improve the living conditions for the turtle aesthetics aside.

There are some experienced people here that have given you the same advice that they would give anyone else. It's common knowledge that light accelerates the proliferation of algae especially if the nutrients are available so the answer is to block out the light by covering the tank up. Planted tank enthusiast do this a lot too win the war with algae. Forget about the media. Kill the algae in the water by removing the light and reducing the nutrients. Sometimes the clean water you put in actually has forms of nitrogen and phosphates that aid algae growth.

 

[fishenthusiast]

What is the point of treating the algae in the tank if I'm harboring an algae infused and infested basket full of ceramic media, which will likely function as a safe haven and starter culture for the algae to resume it's reproduction? One step forward two steps back?



I'm just not understanding the logic behind preserving the infected ceramic media. maybe I don't know what I'm talking about, but it seems like operating to cut out cancer but leaving huge cancerous tumors intact to continue growing.



???

You could always seed new ceramic media AFTER the problem is SOLVED. As previously mentioned, bleaching your biological media would kill off your nitrifying bacteria. As a result, the ammonia level in your tank would rise and you'd risk killing your turtle. Ammonia will also feed algae, only enhancing the problem.

If the tank gets moved, it gets moved out into the street on the curb ...
because there's no other functional place for the tank, which is why it is where it is.

The tank has been in that window for 12 years and never with the sort of algae nightmare I have now. Nothing even remotely close.

People here are responding to a different situation than the situation with the constraints that I'm facing. Might as well suggest I put my turtle in my non existent pond and have a contractor rebuild the exterior walls of this building to install additional windows.

I mentioned I've got a frickin' CRISIS here because I need to have this kitchen presentable with a clear tank by 6pm TONIGHT. No 'ifs', 'ands', or 'buts'. I'm in a NYC apartment there's no where to move this tank to. It is staying where it is, period. If the tank is green and the light to the kitchen window/tank is blocked, I've got MUCH bigger problems than turtles or algae. Is this understood??? It doesn't appear to be by the responses I keep receiving. It's solving someone else's problem, not my problem. It's maddening.

I have put a black cloth behind the tank and it will remain there for 2 hours. At 6pm the tank must have clear water (100% water change) and the kitchen must be filled to capacity with sunlight.

I dpi appreciate all the input and help, but please read before you post and understand my constraints. I need creative solutions ... and may need to endue towards the invasive and dangerous end of the spectrum. My back is up against the wall.

As others have mentioned, and in my opinion, your best bet for what you want to do would to be to place a background on the tank full time to reduce the amount of light reaching the tank. This would be the only way to not move the tank and keep the window in the same fashion that it is in. It may not be the best solution, but it should help. Increase water changes due to the turtle's large bioload as well. Look into the PhosGuard, as well as some Nitra-Zorb to add to the filtration system. Other than moving the tank, purchasing turtle-safe aquatic plants, or moving on from the turtle, there's not much more that I can add. In terms of showing off the tank to guests, I wouldn't worry about it. This is a hobby after all. Just explain that you ran into some trouble with the tank. Sometimes you can't rush the process. It's like recalling an injured pitcher from Tommy John surgery when he's not ready--you can only do so much in a certain amount of time, especially when you are dealing with biological and chemical aspects. Good luck.

 

[Lovegasoline]

Yesterday I did a 100% water change. I also altered the canister filter setup: I kept the full basket of Biomax rings, and added 2 sponges. Bottom basket 4 sponges course>medium; middle basket 2 sponges fine>extra fine & 1/2 filled with Biomax; top basket 1/2 filled with Biomax topped with layer of single filter floss.

When I cleaned out the canister filter it was, once again, MUCH cleaner than I'm used to and anticipated, however the filter floss was, once again, much dirtier than I anticipated and am used to seeing.

I didn't add anything to the tank except a tiny amount of water conditioner.

Mr. T has a black curtain that covers the front of the tank at night when he sleeps, I'm now flipping it to the back of the tank when no one is here and the kitchen doesn't need to be presentable.



The light in the tank is from the ZooMed UVB florescent bulb in the lamp hood. There's an above tank basking area made from plexiglass and the lamp sits on top. Mr. T can be seen basking in the pic.

I've ordered Phosguard 100mL and API NITRA-ZORB SIZE 6, should have it tomorrow.

Re: plants
How many should be placed in the tank?

Duckweed: is sold by 1/4 cup, 1/2 cup, 1 cup, etc.

Salvinia: in 1/4 cup, 1/2 cup, 1 cup quantities, etc.

Frogbit:: sold per plant. How many plants?

 

[Caliban07]

Just chuck 1/4 cup of any it will cover the surface in no time

 

[Autumnsky]

If you lose the biological filter by bleaching the media, your turtle may suffer ammonia burns and possible death, thats why.

Already explained that in my previous post. As have others.

Once again... not block kitchen window - cover the tank on 3 sides - back and 2 ends.

With aquarium background film. There is a blue color and there is a graduated blue background which I prefer and it keeps the tank bright looking.

Anyway you could always look into a turtle retirement sanctuary out of the city for the turtle to go and live his future days. And you could rest more peacefully. And have more time for other things you enjoy more.

Good luck with your turtle.

 

[Autumnsky]

Oh also was going to mention the canister filter, as you said it again didn't look too dirty.

Is it actually pulling the water through with the same intensity as it is supposed to??? Perhaps it is worn out. I have had a filter before and the motor was apparently just barely getting the water to come through / so worn out I guess. Not plugged. Also check the impeller and see if it has anything jamming it up to cause it to be barely moving.

 

[Delapool]

Yesterday I did a 100% water change. I also altered the canister filter setup: I kept the full basket of Biomax rings, and added 2 sponges. Bottom basket 4 sponges course>medium; middle basket 2 sponges fine>extra fine & 1/2 filled with Biomax; top basket 1/2 filled with Biomax topped with layer of single filter floss.

When I cleaned out the canister filter it was, once again, MUCH cleaner than I'm used to and anticipated, however the filter floss was, once again, much dirtier than I anticipated and am used to seeing.

I didn't add anything to the tank except a tiny amount of water conditioner.

Mr. T has a black curtain that covers the front of the tank at night when he sleeps, I'm now flipping it to the back of the tank when no one is here and the kitchen doesn't need to be presentable.

View attachment 302517

The light in the tank is from the ZooMed UVB florescent bulb in the lamp hood. There's an above tank basking area made from plexiglass and the lamp sits on top. Mr. T can be seen basking in the pic.

I've ordered Phosguard 100mL and API NITRA-ZORB SIZE 6, should have it tomorrow.

Re: plants
How many should be placed in the tank?

Duckweed: is sold by 1/4 cup, 1/2 cup, 1 cup, etc.

Salvinia: in 1/4 cup, 1/2 cup, 1 cup quantities, etc.

Frogbit:: sold per plant. How many plants?

Side question if you get time:

Bit of a long shot but how old is the bulb? All algae UV control is by UV - C that I know of, however on reading it looks like UV - B will partially do the same job. Looking at the photo I'm impressed algae hasn't been an issue before. If the bulb is say over 12 months or more, could be a link - if the bulb is new, that would shoot that theory down. But I think worth asking.


Copied links in:


UV disinfection is effective at wavelengths from 200 nm to 300 nm. The UVC radiation emitted has a strong bactericidal effect. It is absorbed by the DNA, destroys its structure and inactivates living cells.

https://www.heraeus.com/en/hng/the_...MIoZ3dj_bR1QIVVgUqCh2AHg90EAAYAyAAEgKTcfD_BwE


UV lamps emit UV light as one of three subtypes: UV-C, from 100 nm to 280 nm; UV-B, from 280 nm to 315 nm; and UV-A, from 315 nm to 400 nm

http://www.globalspec.com/learnmore/optics_optical_components/light_sources/uv_lamps

Particularly at wavelengths around 260 nm–270 nm,[7] UV breaks molecular bonds within microorganismal DNA, producing thymine dimers that can kill or disable the organisms.


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet_germicidal_irradiation?wprov=sfti1

 

[Caliban07]

It's a new unit Dela. Nice info though

 

[Delapool]

It's a new unit Dela. Nice info though

Thanks! Missed that. Oh well.

 

[Lovegasoline]

Status Update

The tank has been clear of algae for about three weeks.
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions, recommendations, comments, criticisms, and feedback. You are a great resource! I seem to have thrown everything at the algae in an attempt to beat it back.

The tank water is completely crystal clear. There are some trace elements of green algae solids staining on the tank's silicone seams, forming inside the translucent filter tubing (I'd scrubbed these clean when first combating the algae), etc. however the water is crystal clear.

The present configuration of the tank is as follows:
- Filter: the Nitro-Zorb packet & Phosguard Packet are still in the filter. I have not treated, replaced, or recharged them since inserting them on August 19th.
- The UV sterilizer (Green Killing Machine) has been removed from the tank.
- All blackout shades have been removed, tank receives full sunlight as it did previously to the algae bloom.
- All the Duckweed that I added on August 17th is long gone (assumed eaten by Mr. T).
- I did the annual UVB bulb replacement a month so early, a new UVB ZooMed fluorescent hood bulb was installed August 31st.
- The last water test was done 6 days ago, results are recorded below in the log.


I do have some questions about tank maintenance:
-Any opinions, comment, concerns on the results of the water tests and water quality?
-Regarding the Nitro-Zorb packet & Phosguard Packet in the filter, any tips on recharging and/or if they now can be removed having served their purpose?
-Ideas for plants Mr. T will not eat that might combat algae in the future or may be useful to keep in the tank as a preventative measure?

Mr. T is very happy.
I am noticing he's blinking a little more than usual, I'm assuming this may have to do with the present state of the tank cycling and water quality? I'm still very much a n00b when it comes to tank chemistry.



TANK LOG

2017/09/6
-Should I get new plants? But of a kind Mr. T will not eat?
-Changed intake filter sponge & cleaned tank of debris with net.
-Water Test Results:
pH = 6.0
ammonia= 0.0 - 0.25 ppm
Nitrite = 0 ppm
Nitrate = 80 ppm

2017/09/5
-Tank looks fine. No algae, nor has there been any since the last big water change. There’s some organic debris from uneaten lettuce (which I need to get out with a net), and I need to change the intake sponge, but otherwise the tank is clear.
-Unplugged the UV Sterilizer, as I think it’s no longer essential and I want too save lightbulb life.

2017/08/31
-25% - 30% water change. Change Intake filter foam (10 days since last cleaning). Some debris in tank. Added small amount of water conditioner.
-All the Duckweed is now gone from the tank. Mr. T ate it all?
-Buy API Aquarium salt for reconditioning
the Zorb filter packet??
-Replaced ZooMed UVB bulb in the hood with new (annual replacement). Seems like it’s flickering a little at the ends? This is a replacement from another that had issues from same merchant (perhaps I did not leave that one in long enough initially…as the replacement one had the same issue but I left it in and in a minute or tow it started. Ballast issue? Who knows)

2017/08/30
-removed the translucent black tank shade (poly-synthetic material) that was covering the back of the tank for the past 12 days.

2017/08/21
-Changed and cleaned intake hose filter.
-Cleaned debris from tank with skimmer net.
-Water Test results:
Ammonia = 4.0 ppm

2017/08/20
-Adjusted the canister filter output so that the nozzle points up towards the water surface to agitate the surface for better oxygenation.
-In the evening removed one (the heavier of two) layers of blackout material from the tank. There’s still one layer of semi-translucent blackout material in place.

2017/08/19
-Took receipt of API Master Freshwater Test Kit
Mr. T Water Test Results
pH = 7.2 (or 7.0?)
ammonia= 8.0 ppm
Nitrite = 0 ppm
Nitrate = 0 ppm

After test:
-1/3rd water change (UV Sterilzer sponge VERY dirty!!! Need to clean daily?).
-Addition of Nitro-Zorb packet & Phosguard Packet to canister filter.
-Canister filter: reverted to my old 4 sponge setup: 2 coarse, 2 fine.
-Canister filter: removed and replaced/raised the circular O-ring under the motor assembly … is this a poor seal allowing water to be routed incorrectly through the canister and bypassing the sponges, effecting the filtration? The filter sponges and filter floss had been showing very atypical soiling leading up to and during the algae bloom.
*It’s possible that during the H20 change some duckweed was sucked into the filter when the filter intake tubes disconnected without my knowledge, thus potentially lowering the quantity of duckweed by 30-50%?

2017/8/17
-Added Duckweed 1/4 cup to tank (from eBay)

2017/8/10
The UV sterilizer doesn’t seem to be working after 5 days. It’s possible the sponge was a little obstructed.
Mr. T: 100% water change; added two sponges to filter, moved 1/2 the Biomax to top basket. Blacked out the tank’s back/window. Need to have the tank presentable.

2017/8/5
-Mr. T. Installed UV Sterilizer light (Green Killing Machine) around midnight to compbat Algae.
-Received online forum advice on treating the algae bloom

2017/6/15
Mr. T: replaced broken inlet tube, 1/2 tank water change, cleaned/replaced all filters. Lubed o-rings on intake/outake w/Vaseline.

2017/6/8
Mr. T.: Noise & low filter H2O level continued. Decision to deep clean entire filter. Dissasembled EVERYTHING including hoses & cleaned everything of all algae. (didn't clean filters in canister, vac tank bottom, or do a H2O change. Effect: water level normal & 80% of Noise eliminated! However, after 2 days H2O level dropped about 1". Noise not too bad though.

2017/6/5
Mr. T.: Filter H2O level was 2" low and making noise. Even after dding water to filter the level would drop in a few minutes. Desperation. Did 1/2 H2O change and cleaning of filter. Added Anti Algea dose. Had no effect on wa

2017/5/1
Mr. T 1/3rd water change.

2017/4/19
Mr. T, 100% water change + filter cleaning, replaced all filter O-rings (except very tiny one inside impellor), added Fluvel Biomax rings doubling their quantity/volume, replaced broken Python siphon switch.

2017/4/30
Mr. T. : treated tank with Tetra Algea Control.
There were 2 or 3 additional treatments that went unrecorded but none of which worked.

2017/3/26
-Mr. T's filter had been making a lot of gurgling noise. I disassembled & filter floss seemed dirty, though other filters were pretty clean. I had 2 baskets (8) foam filters, factory reommends only 4 (1 basket). So, x2 30ppi, x1 20ppi, and a large ppi aftermarket at very bottom. Also, realize I'd like to order more biomedia ceramics to double capacity. Next: buy replacement O-ring kit; if that doesnt improve it I'll get a new impeller. Also clean the tubes.

2017/2/23
Mr. T full water change; full filter clean.

 

[Matthew C.]

Doesn't a high nitrate of 80 considered to be somewhat dangerous for your fish to survive?? As far as I understand also, high nitrates help the formation of algae, do they not??

 

[brendenscott]

Nitrates are really high and my assumption as to what fed the algae in the first place. Obvious he has a high bio load and unfortunately only remedy is more water changes to keep down or plants maybe amazon swords that tend to be high nitrate feeders but not sure if he would eat or not.