Noviceafter2yea
Aquarium Advice FINatic
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2014
- Messages
- 504
This is my ammonia reading from this morning. It is about .25. My detector has me in safe.
Hey Novice', wanted to check how things were going with your tank?
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Oh no! If it's not 1 thing it's another... Hopefully the Platy will be healed soon enough in your QT tank with the meds, and it will be smooth sailing from there! I'm not very knowledgable in disease diagnosis and treatment but I know there are many on here that are. Maybe the thread in the unhealthy category could help, glad to hear your numbers are looking better, and hope you get everyone happy and healthy soon!
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I know, it it isn't one thing, then another! I did post about the sick fish a little bit ago.
One suggestion is to stop with the ich meds and the salt and just raise the temp. Scary.
Anyway, hope all your aquatics are,in good shape!
For ich that should work. You just need to get the temp up to 86 and leave it there for 10 days after last white spot seen. It generally can't survive / reproduce at that temp. Salt is a good tonic to help if you don't have plants (otherwise the salt level needed to kill off ich is too much for the plants).
All my plants are fake. I will gradually increase the temp to 86 and add a little salt. Should I take the gravel out or just keep turkey baster vacuuming?.
Are u serious?? 35$ almost gets me a Api Master Test Kit!!! How much are those for you???
This is a slightly older thread and has kind of moved on, but I wanted to clear some things up that I'm fairly sure of (though a true chemist would know better). The seachem alert claims to read straight ammonia, whereas the API test measures ammonia AND its conjugate acid, ammonium. Ammonium is a weak acid and much less toxic for fish. The primary factor in Ammonium/Ammonia proportions is due to pH, the higher your pH, the more is ammonia, and the lower, the more is ammonium.
I use the seachem alert but I also do tests with the API test kit too. Just keep in mind when you're using either that the higher the pH, the more actual ammonia there is, so if you're relying on the seachem alert you could have problems if you have a pH swing. It's also why the seachem alerts don't work well below a certain pH.
Also, they're like $8 on amazon. I don't mind supporting a local fish store, but when they mark something like that up so much it gets ridiculous. It's the same thing with HOB filter replacement cartridges, $12 for 2 at petsmart, $8 for 4 on amazon. Prime pays for itself fast.
This is a slightly older thread and has kind of moved on, but I wanted to clear some things up that I'm fairly sure of (though a true chemist would know better). The seachem alert claims to read straight ammonia, whereas the API test measures ammonia AND its conjugate acid, ammonium. The primary factor in Ammonium/Ammonia proportions is due to pH, the higher your pH (basic), the more is ammonia (base), and the lower (acidic), the more is ammonium (conjugate acid).
I use the seachem alert but I also do tests with the API test kit too. Just keep in mind when you're using either that the higher the pH, the more actual ammonia there is, so if you're relying on the seachem alert you could have problems if you have a pH swing. It's also why the seachem alerts don't work well below a certain pH.
Also, they're like $8 on amazon. I don't mind supporting a local fish store, but when they mark something like that up so much it gets ridiculous. It's the same thing with HOB filter replacement cartridges, $12 for 2 at petsmart, $8 for 4 on amazon. Prime pays for itself fast.