thread algae...

[medge00]

I'm working on my new 20 gallon long. I've got a pretty good case of thread/hair algae. This stuff is long!! I think I've attributed most of the problem to too much light. I've got 130 watts over the tank total... my new plan is to have the lights on 10 hours a day, with a 4 hour 'peak' period where both ballasts are on, while the rest of the time I've just got one going. I need to add another diy co2 2L (I know... I'll need a lot more with all that light, but this was a challenge, I want to play with it). I'm also still tweaking my fertilizer routine. This tank has only been up a little over a month. My stem plants have probably saved this from being a complete algae infestation. At the current rate I pull a bunch of thread algae out every other day or so. The algae started when I started using both 65 watt fixtures. Here's my question: will a three day blackout help knock this stuff back a bit? I've used such a black out with other types of algae, never anything like this. Any thoughts?

 

[MantisX]

The way I defeated thread algae was to remove it like you are now and let the plants catch up. Basically I got all my eye could see at the beginning of the day and at the end. I let the plants grow as normal. After about a week I noticed a whitish looking fuzz on some of my plants. The fuzz was dead thread algae. It is still a little in my tank, but Its not multiplying at the rate it was before I did nothing. I think as time goes on it will all die out as I think I slowed it down too far by removing it by hand for it to catch back up with the plants.

Hope this helps

 

[vega]

If you are using autoswitch for the light you can make the light switch off for 2-3 hour during noon. the algea prefer constant lighting so the afternoon no light for 2-3 hour will deter the algea.

As for fertilizer, do not add one full dose weekly, instead divide the recommend dosage to 7 days and add in the fertilizer daily. the reason is:-

1. U minimise the sudden over fertilise for 1st few days.

2.The chelate iron will oxidise once expose to O2 so the weekly dosing will only effective for 1-2 day before the iron oxsidise and cannot be use by plant.

I notice if you do add fertillizer daily, the algea bloom will be control and in fact it will create a slightly under fertilise tank if you follow recommended dosage as the fetilizer is fully utilise be plant daily. The only drawback is the trimming i need to do weekly as the long type/top plant will cover the short/bottom plant.

 

[mitche8359]

When I had my algae bloom when I first went to a planted tank, I was given several suggestions, including tweaking the lighting and planting a bunching plant. The lighting didn't really seem to help. The bunched plants got rid of my algae. However, you then have to maintain the bunched plants and trim, replant, etc. I removed the bunched plants a month ago and the algae is coming back. Will be getting some cabomba soon hopefully.

 

[malkore]

asian ambulia is a nice, fast growing, bright green stem plant that has the same type of growth as cabomba, but is easier to grow and maintain.

Thread algae is usually caused by too much iron in the water. Splitting your fert dosing in to several smaller doses throughout the week can help keep iron levels lower, but stable.

 

[mitche8359]

Ah are you suggesting cabomba is hard to grow? Friend which is newbie to planted tank, just this last weekend, has cabomba and said its starting to look under the weather. He's kept it in a 20g for a week while building a canopy for his lights. I think he's at 3wpg. His hornwort is growing nicely though.

 

[TankGirl]

I really like vega's suggestion about dosing ferts, and that makes perfect sense. Also, fast-growing stem plants, like the ambulia (I found my dwarf gourami tended to use it for his nest so there were always tiny bits of leaf in the filter and everywhere) or water sprite, hygro, will probably help a lot.

I don't find cabomba hard to grow, but find the ambulia is a prettier plant, at least to me.

 

[malkore]

cabomba isn't hard to grow under the right conditions, but it tends to thin out, and the bottoms of the stems always seem to lose all their leaves/fronds.
I think I had the purple or red variety, which is harder than the standard species...but I'm only guessing since my plants had a purplish hue to them on the tops, near the lights.
I also had issues with cabomba stems rotting out at the bottom, especially if I replanted prunings.
I think the ambulia is an easier stem plant for a novice, that's all.

 

[mitche8359]

Ah well I'm determined to get the tank back to the SA theme, so I don't know why I bought the Vals anyway. Oh I remember, I was told they were native to SA. DOH! Tropica says they are a cosmopolitan which to me isn't SA. I like the look of cabomba.

It sounds like cabomba grows via the same methods as other bunching plants which is cellular elongation as well as new growth. It's the cellular elongation that makes the plants get the stretched appearance as the cells grow longer over time. As with the anacharis it sounds like the cabomba would have to be pruned and propogated on a regular basis to keep the full appearance of the plant.

I checked the amount of light I'm providing to the tank and I was wrong. At some point I must have upped the hours to 9. I changed the setting to on 4.5 off 2 on 4.5. We'll see how that works, but I know I"ll have to add a bunching plant to get the algae back under control. I'll also go to dosing ferts for a couple of weeks.

Great news is that the otos are starting to clean the sides of the tank. Work faster guys!