Felf said:
i recently traded my 20H for a 20L which i've been wanting for quite some time. once i got the tank, i also bought a coralife 2x65w CF fixture from Hellolights.com (1 bulb 6hrs a day and both bulbs 4hrs a day) and a pressurized co2 combo from aquatic-store.com.
Holy heck that is a lot of light! Be very careful even at the levels you've suggested until you know exactly how quickly your ferts are used.
Felf said:
the ph controller is calibrated and says my ph is 5.9, my gh and kh are both 5 (if i tested correctly) arent the ideal parameters kh=5 and gh=11+? i set the knob on the sms122 controller to about a ph of 7 but since my ph is so low it doesnt turn on the solenoid anyway. btw i dont know what the ph of my tap water is but i'm gonna test that later. should i start adding baking soda to increase gh? are there other things i should be doing?
As Malkore said there IS no "right" level for GH and KH. GH is the level of Magnesium and Calcium present in the water, both of these being macro nutrients that your plants need. A level of 5degrees is more than adequte. The KH is the level of carbonate hardness, that is the buffering capacity of the water. This is VITAL for a CO2 injected tank. A KH of 5 degrees is perfect for a CO2 injected tank, especially one that is pressurized with a pH monitor (slightly higher KH is sometimes recommended for DIY CO2 since you can have wild fluctuations as the amount of CO2 being produced varies). With presssurized CO2 like you have though, I wouldn't mess with it. This is perfect for you as for water changes all you have to do is dose ferts at a water change, you don't have to mess with any hardness levels (I have to bump up my KH since my tap has very low levels and I'm DIY Co2).
As mentioned before with your high light level you need to be actively dosing potassium (K), phosphate (PO4), and depending on fishload nitrAte (NO3). You should also pick up a trace mix (I'm partial to CSM+B) as you will be going through iron (Fe) quickly as well.
Finally if what you say is true (pH very low)
AND your solenoid is NEVER opening due to the pH controller reading too low, I second that its not calibrated correctly. If you had the solenoid open and were reading that low pH then I'd say you had way to much CO2 being injected, but the way you've described it you don't have any CO2 being injected right now correct?? If that's the case there is no way with the GH and KH of your tank that the pH can be that low. Do you have a liquid pH test kit (say an AP reagent kit)? Test some of your tank water and compare it to what the reading on the controller is. I'm quite certain it will show very close to neutral (pH7).
HTH,
justin
p.s. To reiterate what malkore said baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
ONLY increases the KH of the water, it does nothing for the GH. If you tank has low KH you can use baking soda to increase the KH hardness of the water, but this will do NOTHING for GH. Just wanted to clear that up if it confuses anyone else.