WC during In-Fish Cycle

[Sydsmom367]

How often should I do a Water change during an in fish cycle? I have 2 guppies in a 10 gal tank. I ran it for approx. 24 hrs with API stress coat, API quick start and aquarium salt before adding the 2 guppies. Today is the start of day 3 with the guppies in tank. Test reads normal. 0=ammonia, 0=NO3, 0=NO2, Ph=7.8-8.0. Should I be doing a water change based on the test results or on a scheduled time frame? Also, should I syphon tank water from the bottom or skim from the top during a cycle? Thanks

 

[PB_Smith]

Go by the water tests as the most reliable, second go by the fish's behavior.

If you start doing too frequent of changes the levels may not reach the "tipping" point at which the beneficial bacteria can start to really flourish.

FYI, guppies are not the best choice for cycling. Keep a close eye on their gills and fins.
gills for any redness/inflammation, fins for any ragged, tattered edges, both signs of high ammonia levels (guppies are especially susceptible to fin deterioration) and labored breathing.

Test daily and do partial changes as needed, when ammonia hits >4ppm, nitrite when it hits about >0.50 ppm, or if the fish appear distressed.

Also during the cycling period DO NOT clean your filters, it's actually counter productive when establishing a bacteria colony.

If there is obvious uneaten food/detritus on the bottom, siphon it out, otherwise it really doesn't matter at this stage of your tank.

 

[ArtistGardener]

What type of tests are you using (strips or liquid)?

Assuming you are using liquid and the numbers are correct, just watch it. Ammonia will grow rapidly.

"Test daily and do partial changes as needed, when ammonia hits >4ppm, nitrite when it hits about >0.50 ppm, or if the fish appear distressed."

^^ good advice except for the level of ammonia. 4 ppm will kill those guppies. For the health of the fish, try to keep it below .50. It takes longer to cycle, but it will still work. If you have some plants like floating hornwort it really helps with both keeping it safe and cycling. As far as water siphoning, it doesn't matter where you take it from--other than aesthetics. Getting rid of the poop/mulm is more for appearance. The ammonia will be in the water column.

By the way, the salt isn't necessary.

As the previous poster said, guppies aren't the best fish for this (fishless is best). Can you trade them in for two zebra danios?

 

[PB_Smith]

What type of tests are you using (strips or liquid)?

Assuming you are using liquid and the numbers are correct, just watch it. Ammonia will grow rapidly. For the health of the fish, try to keep it below .25. If you have some plants like floating hornwort it really helps with both keeping it safe and cycling. As far as water siphoning, it doesn't matter where you take it from other than aesthetics. Getting rid of the poop/mulm is more for appearance. The ammonia will be in the water column.

By the way, the salt isn't necessary.

I understand wanting to keep the levels below .25 for the fishes safety, but that may not be a high enough concentration to really "kick-start" the cycle.
It will still complete the entire cycling process, but it may be prolonged considerably.

(OK, I see you addressed that. ) I will agree with your assessment, better to error on the side of safety, .50 it is.

At the OP, if you can get your hands on a cup or so of cultured/established gravel from the lfs or a friend, that would greatly speed things along.

 

[Sydsmom367]

I'm using the liquid test kit, still trying to get a handle on the color match.

 

[ArtistGardener]

I did one fish-in cycle (because of beginner stupidity--I had no idea about the cycle so you are ahead of the game here!) and have done all tanks fishless since then. The 4ppm ammonia number is for fishless cycling only. Most fish will suffer some gill damage--even at .50 and that is why I said .25 initially. PB, you are right that it will take time. It took me almost three months to fish-in cycle a 29 gallon with a single goldfish (they are ammonia producers extraordinaire!) and I had to do daily water changes, but it did work and the fish was healthy and happy. Getting some bb from a friend or even live plants--not the drypack ones--from the aquarium store will help immensely.

 

[Sydsmom367]

Just tested. Looks like the ammonia might be creeping up. Can't quite pinpoint the exact color. Somewhere between 0 and 0.25 ppm.

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[Coyne]

When nitrites start spiking then you'll probably be doing them twice a day for 3-5 days.

If you're reading .25ppm ammonia/nitrite then you have enough to keep your BB fed since that .25ppm is excess that the BB was unable to process. So don't worry about starving the nitrifying bacteria during a Fish-In cycle because your fish (and uneaten food) are constantly producing more ammonia.


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[Sydsmom367]

2 weeks in today. ammonia was .5 yesterday. Did about 30-35% wc today ammonia reads about .25. Still no nitrite. Should I continue to do wc at .25 or wait til it spikes to .5

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