10g Nano

[lando]

Correct. These suppliments provide the extras that are missing in protien and veggie based foods.

 

[MarkW19]

Cool Can't wait to get started now!

I've decided to mix my own saltwater, but buy the RO water in bottles and store it for up to 6 weeks.

Get the salt mixed out of the tank (up to 1.023), then put the livesand/cured LR(15-20lbs) into the tank, then the water, then turn everything on (filter/heater/powerhead). Run it for 4 days, then start feeding flakefood daily (once a day) for 2 weeks, monitoring ammonia/nitrites/nitrates, and when satisfied the levels haven't gone up/are ok, getting the first fish (clown), blood shrimp, and 4 hermits.


Monitor everything closely for a further 2 weeks after that, then put my 2nd fish in (and the cleaner shrimp).

Sound ok?

 

[lando]

Sounds like a plan to me. The only thing different I would do is hold off on the fire/blood shrimp until you have good indication that parameters are constantly okay. Inverts like the shrimp you have listed are very sensitive to water parameter changes. It would be best to let things settle a bit wit the fish before adding them.

 

[MarkW19]

OK, understood I'd ideally liked to get my inverts all at once then (2 shrimp, 4 hermits), so shall I add these with my 2nd fish, after the clown has been ok in there for say 2 weeks?

 

[lando]

That should be just fine.

 

[MarkW19]

Good good, thanks again.

Some final questions:-

-What about the lighting period - it's just an 11w over-the-tank light that comes with it, which will be fine before I add corals. I definitely want the tank lit up at night between 7pm - 12am, so what other times during the day would you put the light on also?

-Will I have to worry about Oxygen levels in the tank?

-What about potential algae problems - if I see some, how do I go about getting rid of it? My last tank had a lot of green hair algae all over it - it looked awful! I want this one to be 100% clean and pristine at all times, if possible...

-The tank comes with a small internal filter: should I be filling that will cured LR rubble, rather than using the filter pads that it comes with? If so, should the rubble pieces be quite small (like gravel) or can the pieces be a bit bigger?

Thanks.

 

[lando]

-What about the lighting period - it's just an 11w over-the-tank light that comes with it, which will be fine before I add corals.

10 hours a day should be fine.

Will I have to worry about Oxygen levels in the tank?

This should not be an issue if you have good flow in the tank. Position a powerhead so that the flow breaks and ripples the surface of the water. This should give you plenty of gas exchange.

-What about potential algae problems

The best way to combat algae is to insure you have no extra nutrients in your water. NO3 and PO4 are common aglae-feeders so test for them often and insure a high-quailty source water. Regular PWC are require to keep excess nutrients down (mainly introduced through feeding).

The tank comes with a small internal filter: should I be filling that will cured LR rubble, rather than using the filter pads that it comes with? If so, should the rubble pieces be quite small (like gravel) or can the pieces be a bit bigger?

I would like to see a picture of it if possible. LR rubble (whatever size you like) will be about the best filter media you can get. Filter pads are good for mechanical filtration but they need to be cleaned often to keep NO3 in check. It is best to clean then in the water you take from the tank at PWC time. This will help preserve the benefical bacteria while washing away the detritus. Better yet, there are some good disposable filtration pads like Poly Filter or PURA filtration pads. These can be cut to size and often contain some chemical filtration properties as well (i.e PO4 removal). I use PURA pads and replae them monthly.

 

[MarkW19]

Thanks Lando...

So if I do maybe 9am - 2pm, then 7pm - 12am with the lights, that sound ok? Or would you do the 10 hours all in one go (ie. 2pm - 12am)?

I dont have the filter yet, so no pic unfortunately! I would assume it'll come with 2 filter pads though...would you suggest keeping one of these pads for mechanical filtration, and then filling the other compartment up with cured LR? Rather than putting all LR in there?

 

[lando]

So if I do maybe 9am - 2pm, then 7pm - 12am with the lights, that sound ok? Or would you do the 10 hours all in one go (ie. 2pm - 12am)?

I would just do the 2-12 for simplicity.

would you suggest keeping one of these pads for mechanical filtration, and then filling the other compartment up with cured LR? Rather than putting all LR in there?

That is not a bad idea. I am a fan of mechanical filtration for "water polishing". The main thing is not let the detritus build up on the pads. I do use some type of mechanical filtration on all three of my SW tanks.

 

[MarkW19]

So if I do maybe 9am - 2pm, then 7pm - 12am with the lights, that sound ok? Or would you do the 10 hours all in one go (ie. 2pm - 12am)?

I would just do the 2-12 for simplicity.

would you suggest keeping one of these pads for mechanical filtration, and then filling the other compartment up with cured LR? Rather than putting all LR in there?

That is not a bad idea. I am a fan of mechanical filtration for "water polishing". The main thing is not let the detritus build up on the pads. I do use some type of mechanical filtration on all three of my SW tanks.

Cool...which would you put first in the filter then - the pad, or the rubble? Probably put the pad last so that it cleans up the water right before it's pumped back out?

 

[lando]

Actually, I would put the pad first so it will keep the LR rubble from collecting too much detritus.

 

[MarkW19]

OK

I'll look into those disposable pads. Do I have to rinse the rubble or clean it at all? Or just leave it well alone to do its job?

Got all my equipment ordered last night, so the tank should be set up this week Didn't think it was going to cost all that much, but after all the LR and inhabitants, its not going to be far off £400 ($800), which is mad for a 10gal! Still, should be worth it though

Thanks for all your help.

 

[lando]

I would just leave it alone. Once or twice a year take out the rubble and submerge it in the SW taken from the tank at PWC time. This will rinse the rubble and allow you to clean the canister.

so the tank should be set up this week Didn't think it was going to cost all that much, but after all the LR and inhabitants, its not going to be far off £400 ($800), which is mad for a 10gal! Still, should be worth it though

Congrats! You know own a money pit!!!

Thanks for all your help.

any time.

 

[MarkW19]

http://www.magnavore.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/67?osCsid=7764f48ef3ceb7c5a8a08614447a1813

That the one? Does £26 ($52) for 15" x 30" sound an ok price?

Do you not bother cleaning this pad at PWC time then, just simply replace it each month? What about the bacteria that will have built up on it though??

And, in my old 40G tank, I never had to top-up the water due to evaporation. I'm hoping my new 10G will be the same - but with it being smaller, will I most likely have to top up daily/every other day? I was hoping to not have to!

On that note, do you think I really need a powerhead, considering I'll have the internal filter creating flow, in such a small tank?

 

[lando]

That is it. I do not bother rinsing the pads, just replace them.

 

[MarkW19]

That is it. I do not bother rinsing the pads, just replace them.

Cool...I think PURA recommend to regularly rinse though don't they??

-My filter only has one compartment - should I fill half of this compartment with the PURA pad, and the other half with the rubble (water going through the pad first)?

-And the powerhead, do I really need one in such a small tank?

-Also, do I have to acclimate the bagged livesand, and cured live rock? I'm guessing not?

-After my 2 weeks of good readings, when I'm ready to add my Clown, should I do a 50% waterchange, or do I not need to bother (I won't have done a waterchange at all yet)?

Thanks!

 

[MarkW19]

Can you help? Sorry to pester.

 

[lando]

I think PURA recommend to regularly rinse though don't they??

I rinse mine in RO/DI water once before I add it to the tank. That is it.

My filter only has one compartment - should I fill half of this compartment with the PURA pad, and the other half with the rubble (water going through the pad first)?

Sounds good. The pad will keep the detritus from from getting into the LR.

And the powerhead, do I really need one in such a small tank?

It is never a bad idea to add another small powerhead in addition to any filter flow. Adding another powerhead will give you a more chaotic flow and help you reach all areas of the tank.

Also, do I have to acclimate the bagged livesand, and cured live rock? I'm guessing not?

Nope, just ensure some aged SW any you should be fine.

After my 2 weeks of good readings, when I'm ready to add my Clown, should I do a 50% waterchange, or do I not need to bother (I won't have done a waterchange at all yet)?

Well...this depends. You do need to make sure your tank cycles first. The addition of LS and cured LR will speed up the process, but I would make sure you see a NH3 and NO2 rise and fall prior to adding livestock. Once you see a rapid spike in NO3, do a water change and then you should be ready to add livestock...SLOWLY,

 

[MarkW19]

Thanks. I thought you said I probably wouldn't see a cycle though, with the LS and LR I'm putting in there? I intend running the tank for 4 days with everything in, then putting a bit of flake food in every day for 2 weeks, and measuring ammonia/nitrite/nitrate daily. Are you saying that I should wait for at least some sort of rise/fall in ammonia/nitrites before I add the clown?

What if I still haven't seen any cycle within 2 weeks, and ammonia & nitrite are constantly 0?

And, how should I store my salt (bagged)? One it's been opened, is simply folding the top over and keeping it in the house at room temp. fine?

Cheers!

 

[lando]

I thought you said I probably wouldn't see a cycle though, with the LS and LR I'm putting in there?

There is a good possiblity you won't see a cycle. But not 100% The best course is to see how things do for a week...if the tank can process any type of bioload (i.e some flake food).

What if I still haven't seen any cycle within 2 weeks, and ammonia & nitrite are constantly 0?

If you have not seen any canges in parameters with the addition of food once a day you should be good to go.

how should I store my salt (bagged)? One it's been opened, is simply folding the top over and keeping it in the house at room temp. fine?

Just keep it sealed, dry and away from humidity. It will clump up if it gets wet or humid and this makes disolving it a bit harder.