lando
Aquarium Advice Addict
Correct. These suppliments provide the extras that are missing in protien and veggie based foods.
10 hours a day should be fine.-What about the lighting period - it's just an 11w over-the-tank light that comes with it, which will be fine before I add corals.
This should not be an issue if you have good flow in the tank. Position a powerhead so that the flow breaks and ripples the surface of the water. This should give you plenty of gas exchange.Will I have to worry about Oxygen levels in the tank?
The best way to combat algae is to insure you have no extra nutrients in your water. NO3 and PO4 are common aglae-feeders so test for them often and insure a high-quailty source water. Regular PWC are require to keep excess nutrients down (mainly introduced through feeding).-What about potential algae problems
I would like to see a picture of it if possible. LR rubble (whatever size you like) will be about the best filter media you can get. Filter pads are good for mechanical filtration but they need to be cleaned often to keep NO3 in check. It is best to clean then in the water you take from the tank at PWC time. This will help preserve the benefical bacteria while washing away the detritus. Better yet, there are some good disposable filtration pads like Poly Filter or PURA filtration pads. These can be cut to size and often contain some chemical filtration properties as well (i.e PO4 removal). I use PURA pads and replae them monthly.The tank comes with a small internal filter: should I be filling that will cured LR rubble, rather than using the filter pads that it comes with? If so, should the rubble pieces be quite small (like gravel) or can the pieces be a bit bigger?
I would just do the 2-12 for simplicity.So if I do maybe 9am - 2pm, then 7pm - 12am with the lights, that sound ok? Or would you do the 10 hours all in one go (ie. 2pm - 12am)?
That is not a bad idea. I am a fan of mechanical filtration for "water polishing". The main thing is not let the detritus build up on the pads. I do use some type of mechanical filtration on all three of my SW tanks.would you suggest keeping one of these pads for mechanical filtration, and then filling the other compartment up with cured LR? Rather than putting all LR in there?
lando said:I would just do the 2-12 for simplicity.So if I do maybe 9am - 2pm, then 7pm - 12am with the lights, that sound ok? Or would you do the 10 hours all in one go (ie. 2pm - 12am)?
That is not a bad idea. I am a fan of mechanical filtration for "water polishing". The main thing is not let the detritus build up on the pads. I do use some type of mechanical filtration on all three of my SW tanks.would you suggest keeping one of these pads for mechanical filtration, and then filling the other compartment up with cured LR? Rather than putting all LR in there?
Congrats! You know own a money pit!!!so the tank should be set up this week Didn't think it was going to cost all that much, but after all the LR and inhabitants, its not going to be far off £400 ($800), which is mad for a 10gal! Still, should be worth it though
any time.Thanks for all your help.
lando said:That is it. I do not bother rinsing the pads, just replace them.
I rinse mine in RO/DI water once before I add it to the tank. That is it.I think PURA recommend to regularly rinse though don't they??
Sounds good. The pad will keep the detritus from from getting into the LR.My filter only has one compartment - should I fill half of this compartment with the PURA pad, and the other half with the rubble (water going through the pad first)?
It is never a bad idea to add another small powerhead in addition to any filter flow. Adding another powerhead will give you a more chaotic flow and help you reach all areas of the tank.And the powerhead, do I really need one in such a small tank?
Nope, just ensure some aged SW any you should be fine.Also, do I have to acclimate the bagged livesand, and cured live rock? I'm guessing not?
Well...this depends. You do need to make sure your tank cycles first. The addition of LS and cured LR will speed up the process, but I would make sure you see a NH3 and NO2 rise and fall prior to adding livestock. Once you see a rapid spike in NO3, do a water change and then you should be ready to add livestock...SLOWLY,After my 2 weeks of good readings, when I'm ready to add my Clown, should I do a 50% waterchange, or do I not need to bother (I won't have done a waterchange at all yet)?
There is a good possiblity you won't see a cycle. But not 100% The best course is to see how things do for a week...if the tank can process any type of bioload (i.e some flake food).I thought you said I probably wouldn't see a cycle though, with the LS and LR I'm putting in there?
If you have not seen any canges in parameters with the addition of food once a day you should be good to go.What if I still haven't seen any cycle within 2 weeks, and ammonia & nitrite are constantly 0?
Just keep it sealed, dry and away from humidity. It will clump up if it gets wet or humid and this makes disolving it a bit harder.how should I store my salt (bagged)? One it's been opened, is simply folding the top over and keeping it in the house at room temp. fine?