Ammonia readings stuck at 0.25ppm to 0.50ppm After 7 weeks

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Hey buddy. I was just getting ready to test again. If it's 0.25ppm for nitrite should I do another water change? It takes 15 minutes, it's fun actually. I have all the wavemakers, heater and surface skimmer plugged into one power bar now, just need to press the off button to turn them all off than take out the water hose and connect it to the washroom faucent 10 feet away.
 
Hey buddy. I was just getting ready to test again. If it's 0.25ppm for nitrite should I do another water change? It takes 15 minutes, it's fun actually. I have all the wavemakers, heater and surface skimmer plugged into one power bar now, just need to press the off button to turn them all off than take out the water hose and connect it to the washroom faucent 10 feet away.
.25 isnt too toxic, but it should be at 0.00 ideally to my understanding. Nitrate is where there is some wiggle room i believe its under 20 ppm. When was the last time you did a water change and what's the frequency?
 
.25 isnt too toxic, but it should be at 0.00 ideally to my understanding. Nitrate is where there is some wiggle room i believe its under 20 ppm. When was the last time you did a water change and what's the frequency?
I did a 50% water change on Saturday and another 50% yesterday. Should I do another one? Here are the test results from right now:

What did you mean about nitrates they were like at 5-20. Under 20 is ideal, not easy to have zero nitrates I've read.
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Keep dosing prime, nitrite @ .25 is toxic!

Plants will lower nitrates very low, most planted tanks add n-p-k (macros) to get more.

Floating plants would work well with cichlids, they can't rip them out of ground. If they tear them up pieces will keep growing.
 
Ok doing another water change and dosing with prime. Gave them some stress coat yesterday.
 
I did a 50% water change on Saturday and another 50% yesterday. Should I do another one? Here are the test results from right now:

What did you mean about nitrates they were like at 5-20. Under 20 is ideal, not easy to have zero nitrates I've read.
View attachment 297350
The goal should be 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and as little nitrate as possible. Since you did water changes the past 2 out of 3 days I guess you wouldnt need to do one today since there are no fish in your tank.
 
No fish in my tank lol? I have 20 Tanganyikan cichlids. Already started the water change, 20% done so far. Should I do 50%?
 
No fish in my tank lol? I have 20 Tanganyikan cichlids. Already started the water change, 20% done so far. Should I do 50%?
Oh, my mistake! Then yes do the 50 percent water change. Urgency should be pretty high haha. Closely moniter your tank untill you get the 0 for ammonia and 0 for nitrite
 
Wouldn't hurt, during a fishless cycle no, but with your fish more wc's are better.
Most bacteria is in filter.
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the help. I've been running this 140 gallon aquarium since February 1. I had some false calls on some parasites and had to medicate and do a 100% water change twice after the 1st and 3rd weeks...overcleaned filters..medications etc...it's all past now things are looking great.
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the help. I've been running this 140 gallon aquarium since February 1. I had some false calls on some parasites and had to medicate and do a 100% water change twice after the 1st and 3rd weeks...overcleaned filters..medications etc...it's all past now things are looking great.
No one is perfect at running an aquarium. The best you can do is pay attention to the needs of your aquarium and make the necessary adjustments. Planning ahead can definitely help things run smoother down the line. Good luck!
 
I've heard of some meds killing bacteria in a tank somewhere on this forum( respected member).
Don't remember the post, was awhile ago.
Could have been part of your problems.
 
Hi again. Here's the ammonia and nitrite test in the left vials after the water change. Will check again after work tomorrow.
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Ohh, looks pretty good. What are the two on the right?
Hi there, it's the ammonia and nitrite I tested right before the water change today. Hopefully when I test the nitrite again tomorrow it will be the same. If it is maybe I should do a water after a day or 2 so I don't stress them?
 
Hi there, it's the ammonia and nitrite I tested right before the water change today. Hopefully when I test the nitrite again tomorrow it will be the same. If it is maybe I should do a water after a day or 2 so I don't stress them?
Oh, yes thats definitely an improvement. When you think about pet stores, they probably do water changes every day. With that being said changing the water too often probably could stress the fish if the temperature of the water varies. You could probably wait a day or too unless the ammonia and nitrite levels are dangerous
 
Looking even better? 24 hours after 3rd 50% water change.
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Just remember the higher the bioloads (whether improper stocking, overstocked, or high bioload fish) the more chances for water conditions to go haywire fast.

That's why many understock, overfilter, and plant heavily.[emoji6]
 
I have about 40-45" inches of fish right now in a 140 Gallon aquarium. I really think I went through some mini cycles or destabilized the cycle with all the meds and large water changes I had to do.
 
I have about 40-45" inches of fish right now in a 140 Gallon aquarium. I really think I went through some mini cycles or destabilized the cycle with all the meds and large water changes I had to do.
Not trying to be critical, Aqadvisor.com is a good, but not perfect stocking tool, will give you an idea of bioload.
Inches of fish per tank size is not a reliable indicator of stocking, maybe use both methods, everyone's situation is different, so just trying to be helpful.
Nobody wants to fight water quality issues, just enjoy the hobby.
 
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