Angellove78
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yes, I would.Should I add more of that seed bacteria?
Yes, I would.Should I add more of that seed bacteria?
Not OK if his guts are hanging out. Looks like it is. Tomorrow night give him pea's. You boil a few, let them cool, and squeeze out the inner soft pea in to the tank. No skin! Try not to feed him anything else till he heals up. It might take a wk or 2. Your Killing me smalls...Ok or not ok? If it helps he ate part of a red catfish pellet View attachment 306406
Sorry for all the problems don't know wants happening best I can give you is that the bigger Angel and the other Angel are bulling him and he has to eat off the bottom algae to feedHere's another view of it to describe it it looks like a normal poop bit it has red spots every once in a while on it I don't have something to separate him in either should I do something about that?View attachment 306407
I just checked and the poop is gone nothing left hanging from him fins are a little torn up but I was told and looked up and found out minor tears are just because of growing there are lots of hiding places where the bigger one can't fitCatching up on posts - if it looks like normal poop, still eating and moving fine - I'd not worry for now.
With the bullying, as long as there are escape areas - the angelfish will be fine. I find they squabble a lot but rarely much damage. If you are seeing scales and continuous fin damage - one has taken a dislike to the other.
I've got some experience with a fish in cycle. If you've already changed your filter do not do this again for at least a month. I probably need your water parameters. But I'll give advice on how to keep your fish alive. Do 25% water change twice a day and give about 6 hours between changes. If your nitrites are high and you have a siphon then skim the top of the substrate (gravel or sand, ect). Do not deep clean the substrate. Do not clean your ornaments. Beneficial Bacteria is on all of these things. Check your water with an API liquid test kit (master) everyday before your set of water changes. With a fish in cycle you absolutely do not want your ammonia over .5 ppm. Ideally .25 ppm you can get away with until your tank is cycled. Any amount of ammonia is bad long term for fish. Feed only once a day and only what they consume in 2 min. Let us know how this works for you.I have a quiet flow led pro aquarium power filters it's a 20 gallon tank tall and it's been running since the 1st after a week I saw the light went on signaling to change the filter so we did that and then last week I drained 85% of the water looking for a corydora that was lost (still haven't found it or smelled it) I know now we shouldn't have drained all the water i guess it's gonna be a long cycling process
Water stats today
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Total hardness around 150
Total chlorine 0
Total alkalinity 120
Ph 7.2
Pictures of strips and ammonia testing at bottom
I did... awhile back before the test readings. (When everyone was being so "kind" to him.I didn't want to post here really, but I'm not sure why no one pointed out this yet: your readings show 0 total nitrogen - this is impossible. your Am is indeed good - I no longer see the slight green tint in the probe that you had few days ago, Nitrite is the easiest to test for so chances are you did the test right. and this is good news for you, cycle is established to process the bad stuff.
now the Nitrate, unless you just swapped the entire tank of water before testing you absolutely have a good amount of that in your tank by now. this is the hardest of the tests to do properly, (that's why the strips are of no use, by the time they activate its all gone). to properly test with API freshwater kit good mixing of the bottle 2 is required to break the crystallization in the solution. and the test tube has to be shaken hard (wrap in paper towel, I hate how these lousy API plastic caps leak) and long to mix those solutions together. below 10 is ideal, 20 (slight orange) is ok, red is bad.
good luck.