64g Rimless, Planted Build

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Yes to ph controller, most effective/efficient vehicle in delivering the absolutely necessary amounts of co2 to your tank without gassing your fish..

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I am a fan of the stable pH one can get with the use of a controller. And if set properly, CO2 overdosing should not occur. Necessary? I'd say No. But it depends on the lighting, plants, and sensitivity of the fish.


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Hmm. I stand corrected, maybe it is a good way to go.


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No. You're technically right.. but if you've got the flow... why not?? Less variables in an equation can simplify the answer(mathematicians will kindly ignore this)

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No. You're technically right.. but if you've got the flow... why not?? Less variables in an equation can simplify the answer(mathematicians will kindly ignore this)

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How do you determine the pH to set your controller at? I've tested my pH in the morning before CO2 starts pumping and in the evening when it has just turned off and I have not seen a pH swing. It sticks at 7.3 using both API liquid tests and a digital pH meter, yet my drop checker will change to green and I know that CO2 is being pumped in.


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Oh nice.. jumping on late here, but following nonetheless. Another great rimless thread, can't wait to see where this goes.
 
If pH drop is not a perfect measure of Co2 in a tank what good is a controller? Use a drop checker as a ROUGH guestimate and watch the plants/fish.


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I think the main reason I contemplate it is because our water here has a high dKH, dGH, and pH right from the tap. We're essentially talking about 24*GH, 7*KH liquid rock with a 7.6pH. That's my county water right out of the tap.
When I move, we'll be getting well water that's run through a water softening system. I need to test that water to see what will benefit me the most.
I'm really concerned about my 36g tank since I will have to transition it to the different water source.
This 64g build won't need special parameters since it's starting out with the well water. But, I had the idea that a pH controller would at least keep it consistent since our well water could easily fluctuate with the seasons.
Hence the reason I asked and am glad I did so!


? Diana Lee ?
? the St. Augustine Redhead ?
http://floridaorchidendlers.com
 
Nigel - Thanks for posting that link. Good read. It answers a lot questions I had. It also stressed the importance of monitoring the drop checker.
Aqua_chem's comment about the solenoid sounding like a mousetrap is funny and spot on.



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Spend the money that you were about to spend on the controller on a Ro system. I highly recommend Bulk reef supply.


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If pH drop is not a perfect measure of Co2 in a tank what good is a controller? Use a drop checker as a ROUGH guestimate and watch the plants/fish.


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The reason pH drop is used as a rough indication is because its an instant indicator.

A drop checker can have 1.5 - 3hours delay on the colour change. Not exactly perfect when trying to get accuracy


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+1 for Milwaukee.

I use their PH controller and regulators and have never had an issue.

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I've got the sunsun 304b I think it's called and so far it's awesome! And cheap =P

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I think I might nab the Fluval 406 - it's on sale for $195.95, and comes with extra media...

Good price? Splurge or stall?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJ3PCGA/ref=pe_217440_136528010_em_1p_3_ti


? Diana Lee ?
? the St. Augustine Redhead ?
http://floridaorchidendlers.com


It's a couple bucks lower than Petco.com and Drs Foster & Smith. I think the regular price is around $250. I just picked up a 206 and might be installing it tonight.
Edit: It should be fine for your tank. You are still going with the frosted back? If so, you should be able to swap out the stock black ribbed tubing with clear tubing.

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For the size of this tank you may consider running two smaller canisters. Two ehiem 2217 might do it. Also id look into a sump filtration and skip canisters all together (i have no idea how much they are)


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