At a loss to explain ammonia spike

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
The ammonia was .25 yesterday and I did a 30% water change before I left and didn't feed them yesterday. I get back today and the ammonia is still at .25, so in other words...it looks like my bacterial colony is well and truly stuffed.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The ammonia was .25 yesterday and I did a 30% water change before I left and didn't feed them yesterday. I get back today and the ammonia is still at .25, so in other words...it looks like my bacterial colony is well and truly stuffed.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

In a word...Yes. It works right into what should be based on the article. (y)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
And my thinking is that the water change will have got the ammonia down to at least close to 0, then their waste without even eating raised it back to .25 in one day. Am I correct in assuming this?

If so, I'll leave it one more day to see if the bacterial colony deals with it, but after that I'm going to have to take the puffers back to the lfs because there's absolutely no way they would survive a cycle. Possibly for the best, because I'm gone for 2-3 weeks over Christmas and I'm not worried about finding someone to feed them, but I am worried about them polluting their tank to toxic levels given how big their bioload is and how sensitive they are...
 
Last edited:
Yes the water change should have diluted it but it may not have just been the fish's waste. Breathing causes ammonia production as well with fish.
If your that concerned, I would give it just the one day as the bacteria bed takes a while to create. If no change, your plan"B" sounds like a good one. Especially if you are having concerns about when you are away. (y)
 
Is there anything else I could do? Would adding the bottled saltwater bacteria work?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
Is there anything else I could do? Would adding the bottled saltwater bacteria work?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

You can try but I would use established filter material over bottled bacteria. The worst that could happen is that bacteria also will die off ( assuming the filter material comes from a disease free tank).
 
The ammonia was .25 yesterday and I did a 30% water change before I left and didn't feed them yesterday. I get back today and the ammonia is still at .25, so in other words...it looks like my bacterial colony is well and truly stuffed.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

I would be doing larger water changes. You can do some rough math to approximate ammonia removal. If your starting ammonia is .25 and you do a 50% water change the ammonia level should drop to .125, by only doing a 30% change the ammonia level was still probably .18 ish.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
But I need the bacterial colony to deal with that ammonia so wouldn't lessening it be counter productive in the long run?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
But I need the bacterial colony to deal with that ammonia so wouldn't lessening it be counter productive in the long run?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

If you plan a larger number of fish in the future, then YES but if it's going to just be for the few fish you already have, then all that really does is delay the finish of the cycling process ( and make more work for you. ;) )

Just briefly, when a cycle completes, it means there is enough bacteria present to handle the load present at the moment it finishes cycling and is the bases for any future upgrade to a higher bioload. So in your case, you don't want to totally eliminate ammonia as you do need it for cycling. With your fish being so sensitive to ammonia, using PRIME will detoxify what ammonia is present while not effecting the bacteria bed as it converts the ammonia to ammonium anyway before consuming it. The same thing the PRIME does to the ammonia. (y)
 
So your advice would be prime AND water changes or just prime? If with water changes, how often and what %? Thanks for all your help by the way!


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
So your advice would be prime AND water changes or just prime? If with water changes, how often and what %? Thanks for all your help by the way!


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

The PRIME website states that it will continue to work/covert for up to 48 hours so I wouldn't be doing water changes any more frequently than every 2 days providing that the ammonia level does not continue to rise in that time or the fish look effected by it's presence. So test your ammonia, use the PRIME, test the ammonia the next day and if it continues to be stable, hold off on the water change. Based on your long term plans, that tells you whether you should wait it out or continue with water changes ( other than for routine weekly maintenance after the tank finishes cycling) ever two - three days ( assuming the ammonia is still climbing.) Keep in mind that after the ammonia issue gets resolved, you will be having nitrite issues and even tho PRIME will detoxify that as well, higher dosages of PRIME needs to be used however, water changes are a better way to go. Yes, that will delay the second half of the cycling process but nitrite is more toxic to the fish than ammonia so you should handle it a little differently. ;)

Here's another way to work this ( but is a little more work.): Once your ammonia level rises, remove the fish to another receptacle ( bucket, tank, etc) with an airstone. Depending on how large the receptacle, it should buy you about a week before there is an ammonia buildup and you need to do a water change. Monitor the ammonia level in there and change water whenever you see ammonia present. In the meantime, the ammonia in your tank is being converted into nitrites which will allow for the bacteria bed to produce the nitrobactors or nitrospiras ( whichever is growing in there :brows:) to convert that into nitrates. Since there is no new ammonia production, the cycling process in the tank should go faster than if the fish are present. Once the nitrite level returns to 0 ( your ammonia should also read 0), do a water change and return your fish back to the tank. Once the ammonia production returns, the bacteria bed will grow fast to consume it. When I say fast, it may never even register on your test kit because the bacteria bed grows that quickly once established. (y)

Hope this helps. As for helping you, No Problem! Glad to do it. :D(y)
 
Thank you very much! I'll start out with the first method (mostly because the only other container I have is a 5 gallon bucket and I'm worried about them jumping out) but if it gets bad I'll use the second method. I'll keep you posted, good news is ammonia hasn't risen since my last post.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
So my ammonia steadily lowered has been at 0 for 2-3 days now and I still haven't seen a nitrite spike.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
So my ammonia steadily lowered has been at 0 for 2-3 days now and I still haven't seen a nitrite spike.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

That could be a good thing. ;) What may have happened was that the nitrosomas died off but not the nitrobacters/ spiras. The way to check that is to do a nitrATE test. If you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and a rising nitrate level, your tank has the proper amount of nitrifying bacteria present to handle the current bioload and would be considered "cycled". (y)
Do a daily test for the next few days of Nitrites and Nitrates. If the Ites stay at 0 but the Ates climb, you are good to go and start doing your weekly water changes as a "normal" tank. If your Ites start to climb, you know what to do. If BOTH Ites and Ates are 0, I'd have an independent test done to confirm this reading and to make sure your chemicals are not bad and giving you false readings. In a cycled aquarium, there should always be some ATES if there are no plants or filters removing them. (y)
 
Was waiting till I saw a nitrite reading to start testing nitrates, wish I hadn't done that now! Today's readings are 0 ammonia 0 nitrite 5ppm nitrate. If the nitrate stays at 5ppm (that's where it sat when it was previously cycled), I'm assuming I'm good?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
Was waiting till I saw a nitrite reading to start testing nitrates, wish I hadn't done that now! Today's readings are 0 ammonia 0 nitrite 5ppm nitrate. If the nitrate stays at 5ppm (that's where it sat when it was previously cycled), I'm assuming I'm good?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

As long as your tap water doesn't show a nitrate reading of 5 ppm, you should be good to go. Also, the nitrates should be going up on a continual basis due to nitrification so never assume where it is at. Always test to know. ;)(y)
 
As long as your tap water doesn't show a nitrate reading of 5 ppm, you should be good to go. Also, the nitrates should be going up on a continual basis due to nitrification so never assume where it is at. Always test to know. ;)(y)

Got it! Still at 5ppm today so I think I'm good. Again, thanks for all your help, you've been a life saver...I really do appreciate you taking the time!
 
Back
Top Bottom