Convict's First Go at a Planted Tank

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So are you thinking of the Mr. Aqua 33.6 (24.8 x 17.7 x 17.7")? If so, I'd be a little apprehensive that the a single Ray 2 will color up any stems that usually color up with intense lighting. I have the 24" Ray 2 on my 26g Bow Front, and due the 18" distance from light to sub, I'm getting reduced PAR -- which places it around medium light. Don't get me wrong, in fact and single Ray 2 might be good for you since you're just starting out. The added distance will be easy on you in terms of algae or whatnot. But just keep in mind, you 'might' have to add a second Ray 2 down the road if you want high-light -- especially to get stems to color up other than greens.

Growth factor is definitely there, but the lack of my red hues coming out in my stems is somewhat bothering me. I'll be experimenting by adding two Ray2's side-by-side shortly to report my findings. I'll also be experimenting with phosphate and iron to see if it helps.
Here's my 26g I'm referring to:
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However, the 16" Ray 2 on my 6g Rimless has only 11" distance from light to sub. Everything else is the same in terms of co2, ferts, etc... and I'm getting great coloring from stems like the Rotala Colorata, Ludwigia sp. Red, and the alternanthera reineckii (now removed).


Sweet tank Brian. So what are you thinking? 2 fixtures or a better one so I don't have to run 2 fixtures.
 
Thanks Justin for the info and links. And thank you Brian. I think the scape will honestly come to me :D

I do agree plant selection will be hard for me. So... I'll need two ray 2's huh? What about the lights Fort linked. And I have my aqua scape tools already :cool:

Aquascaping Tools | Algae Scraper - Scissors - Tweezers

Well.. one Ray 2 will definitely work to grow plants in a taller tank. My 26g is 21" tall (minus substrate it's about 18" from light to sub). PAR gets reduced when distance is factored in. Growing plants isn't enough for me, especially when I foolishly named my 26g build a "dutch inspired" scape... no good to call it dutch if it's not colorful. Anyway, I have a second Ray 2 I'm planning to use on a different build that's not going yet. I'm going to use it for now to see if 2x Ray II's is enough to get things colorful.

Edit:

Experiment begins this weekend...
 
Sweet tank Brian. So what are you thinking? 2 fixtures or a better one so I don't have to run 2 fixtures.

This depends on your plant selection. But I think for a first-time around, you can just start with a single Ray 2 on that 30g rimless (we're talking the Mr. Aqua 33.6g right?). Anyway, trust me, you'll still be able to grow a lot! Fort (Justin) had those TrueLumen Pro's on his 12L. Those are capable of some pretty high PAR. I like both fixtures, it's just I find the Finnex line to be economical and effective.

Check out this thread on LED's.... PAR vs. Distance.
LED Lighting Compendium

I think based on you expressing that you want to start things easy with no co2, I don't want to jump too far ahead. So now that you are considering expanding beyond that initial criteria, I would just go with the Ray 2 and upgrade down the road "IF" you care about coloring up stems as I do.
 
Or... what about those sleek looking Current Truelumen Pro's you had on your 12L Fort? Those look real nice too!

I think your finnex's are at least as good, if not better than the truelumens. They worked great on a very shallow tank, but I wouldn't recommend them on most deeper tanks, accept perhaps as supplemental light.
 
I think your finnex's are at least as good, if not better than the truelumens. They worked great on a very shallow tank, but I wouldn't recommend them on most deeper tanks, accept perhaps as supplemental light.

Ok so,bare with me. It won't be ideal to get this fixture with the tank I've picked out?
 
Yeah you'll be good... this guy on APC has that tank/light combo and it's working great...
What do I need to know about LED? - Page 2 - Lighting - Aquatic Plant Central

So what's your plan on ferts? co2 system? You figure out the low bio-load schooling fish?

My vote would be a bunch of CPD's (galaxy rasboras), ember tetras, or the good old go-to, Neons (standard, green, or even your cardinal variety).
 
Yeah you'll be good... this guy on APC has that tank/light combo and it's working great...
What do I need to know about LED? - Page 2 - Lighting - Aquatic Plant Central

So what's your plan on ferts? co2 system? You figure out the low bio-load schooling fish?

My vote would be a bunch of CPD's (galaxy rasboras), ember tetras, or the good old go-to, Neons (standard, green, or even your cardinal variety).

Thanks for the info. I'm still in the beginning stage. So I wanna get the tank and light also get the canister up and the glass intake/outtakes. I'm looking up plants now.

Definitely get co2 and some kind of dosing regiment. I'm a fan of cpd's personally.

Yeah the more and more I research the more I see the benefits of co2
 
Milwaukee ma 957 regulator is my recommendation. Eseasongear.com always has them for a decent price.
 
IME i tryed a low budget co2 system becuase the cost for co2 bottles can get costly. For my tanks i have got a large 5kg tank with a ada regulator and a bubble counter/ defuser in one. Total cost 、around 200 dollars. But co2 refills cost around 20 dollars, i run 1.5 bps for my 75 gal. Tank will last 2-3 months
 
IME i tryed a low budget co2 system becuase the cost for co2 bottles can get costly. For my tanks i have got a large 5kg tank with a ada regulator and a bubble counter/ defuser in one. Total cost 、around 200 dollars. But co2 refills cost around 20 dollars, i run 1.5 bps for my 75 gal. Tank will last 2-3 months

That's all Latin to me sorry.... I'm 100% clueless. I know regulators for oxygen tanks and that type of stuff. Also I can get co2 refills free through my dept a plus on my end ;)

I'm not sure what setup for co2 I need. I have the info from Fort but I also hear like you said...

Bubble counters etc. I have no idea what this means.
 
Bubble counter help you count how much CO2 your putting in the tank so you can find that perfect level of CO2 to O2, the defuser help chop the bubbles into even smaller bubble to help mix the CO2 in the water. the regulator is like O2 tanks, help control the amount of CO2 coming out of the tank so you can control how many BPS(Bubbles per second)
 
Bubble counter help you count how much CO2 your putting in the tank so you can find that perfect level of CO2 to O2, the defuser help chop the bubbles into even smaller bubble to help mix the CO2 in the water. the regulator is like O2 tanks, help control the amount of CO2 coming out of the tank so you can control how many BPS(Bubbles per second)

Ok that makes sense now. NOW... Is it best to get a really good all in one kit? Do they even sell an all in one?

Or is it best to piece together a kit part by part.y thinking is of wanna keep all components the same maker.
 
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