couple questions...

[mjb018]

Hey guys/gals, I''m new here and I'm working on building a 29 gal aquarium. First, I'm kinda confused on the whole cycling thing. I read the write up on it and was wondering, do I really have to wait 5-6 weeks before I can put in any fish?

Also, another thing I'm kinda confused with is the sump or filtration system...
I was thinking of getting a filter system that hangs onto the side or back of the tank, but am not too sure if this a good system. Anybody have advice on this? Also, how important is it to get the "bumbbler"(i dont know the exact name) thing for a tank.

One more thing, is it safe to use tap water (with a treatment) for an aquarium.

sorry, I'm really a newb at this. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[cmor1701d]

Well, you're posting the Fresh Water section so I'll assume you want a FW tank. Sumps are primarily used for Salt Water tanks as a place to hide equipment, and add water volume to a tank. Most FW tanks don't use one. Tanks that are predrilled for sump use are sold as "Reef Ready".

I'll let the FW experts chime in on the rest. However, when I had a FW tank I used a cannister filter for filtration.

And... Welcome to AA.

 

[BigJim]

Cycling doesn't always take that long, especially if you can get some filter material from an established tank. I'd highly recommend doing a fishless cycle. It's less work in the long run and you don't have to worry about killing your fish. A little patience here pays off.

Sumps are basically big filters that you can customize to fit your needs. I'd call it overkill on a 29g. I have an AquaClear 70 HOB filter on my 29g and it does an awesome job. Always get a filter rated for a larger tank than the one you have. Manufacturers like to rate their filters' capacities a lot more generously than I do.

You don't really need a bubbler or air stone unless you're using an undergravel filter. They're mainly for looks, but they will provide some oxygen to the fish via surface agitation and dissolved oxygen.

It all depends on your tap water. Get a liquid reagent test kit (You'll need one for the tank anyways.) and test the tap water. Many people use tap water with a dechlorinator without issue. Others have nitrate problems, etc. with their water and use purified water.

 

[mjb018]

Ok cool! That cleared up a bunch! I guess all that I'm missing now is the filter system, decors and fish...

I'll be doing the cycle fish less as i don't want to harm or kill any.

One last thing, do i cycle the tank with decoration already or wait till after the cycle to put them in.

Thanks

 

[krap101]

It doesn't really matter. If you can get decorations that have already been in an established tank, it can reduce the amount of time spent cycling by 2-3 weeks, depending on how big the decoration. Otherwise, they won't have much of an effect

 

[maxima423]

you can put anything you want in, just not fish lol

and yes to like everyone says, its faster if you have any used items from pre existing tanks that have gone through a fishless cycle, just make sure its not dry cause the bacteria would be dead as well =P

 

[Silent Night]

It's a good idea to include an oxygen system if you intend on keeping live plants, or a heavily stocked tank. Increased airation will also assist in the treatment process for common illness in all fish, which in a new tank is somewhat enevitable. I'd recommend it. Most air pumps are low cost also.

 

[krap101]

I hear oxygen system and I think oxygen/scuba tank , But I think I get what you mean.

Increased aeration in a plant with live plants (with injected co2) would be bad, because it will allow most of the co2 to outgas. Most HOB filters will create enough surface agitation, (as co2 levels rise, it is easier for it to outgas because of vapor pressure or whatever). Normally an air pump would only be needed if you have a sponge filter or the temperatures are really high and you can't lower them (such as when treating for ich) imo.

 

[CA_BroncoFan]

Cycling doesn't always take that long, especially if you can get some filter material from an established tank. I'd highly recommend doing a fishless cycle. It's less work in the long run and you don't have to worry about killing your fish. A little patience here pays off.

Sumps are basically big filters that you can customize to fit your needs. I'd call it overkill on a 29g. I have an AquaClear 70 HOB filter on my 29g and it does an awesome job. Always get a filter rated for a larger tank than the one you have. Manufacturers like to rate their filters' capacities a lot more generously than I do.

You don't really need a bubbler or air stone unless you're using an undergravel filter. They're mainly for looks, but they will provide some oxygen to the fish via surface agitation and dissolved oxygen.

It all depends on your tap water. Get a liquid reagent test kit (You'll need one for the tank anyways.) and test the tap water. Many people use tap water with a dechlorinator without issue. Others have nitrate problems, etc. with their water and use purified water.

Couldn't agree more!! Great advice here

 

[logansmomma1228]

I suggest you read the links in cmor's signature. Those are excellent articles and should be able to help you understand everything you need to know about cycling.

Adding established decor and whatnot works really well. IMO the quickest way to cycle is to get filter media from an established filter. Put it in - in front of the filter on your tank. My 29 gallon cycled in ONE week with filter media, decor and a little bit of substrate (sand in this case) from my 5 gallon tank.

+1 on cycling fishless. It is very painful and stressful for fish if you cycle with them.

edit: my first tank took exactly 4 weeks to cycle, because I did not have anything to put in it. Also, make sure you keep anything that you get from an older tank WET because if it dries out then the bacteria you need will die.

 

[zach_1_6]

i live in southern ontario, and i use tap water. i let my 10 gallon cycle for 3 days, my 29 gallon or about a week, and my 65 gallon for about a week and a bit untill i got the tempetature to even out. it really depends on your water quality.

 

[Silent Night]

Increased aeration in a plant with live plants (with injected co2) would be bad

Maintaining an optimal dissolved oxygen concentration is key to healthy water and inhabitants. Fish use oxygen for respiration, and cannot survive if oxygen levels drop below 2 ppm. Plants, on the other hand, use oxygen to break down carbon dioxide during photosynthesis.

In addition to fish and plants, there are numerous things that consume dissolved oxygen in water. Nitrying bacteria, for example, use oxygen when feeding on organic waste products, which is why overpopulation of a water system is often a contributing factor to poor water quality and inhabitant health: with all of the bacteria using oxygen to break down the added waste, there simply isn't enough oxygen to go around for fish and plants.

Plants absorb carbon dioxide and produce oxygen via photosynthesis. The problem is that this needs light to operate properly and once darkness falls, the process is reversed.

Therefore, it is highly possible for an adequately oxygenated aquarium to gradually become less well saturated and possibly become dangerously low on O2 to the point where its inhabitants are compromised. Occasionally we hear of people who switch on aeration devices only at night in planted tanks to increase the surface agitation.

 

[krap101]

Wow, I must've been really out of it..lol.. A plant with live plants?...

Anyways, you're right. At the time I thinking I was thinking heavily planted, and yes most people with pressurized co2 have their solenoid on a timer. Ideally a system should be in some sort of stable equilibrium (if it goes away, it will be pushed back) such as if there is some increase in co2, plants will increase growth to push co2 levels down and etc. It is more difficult with smaller tanks, but still possible.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

[mjb018]

8-OWOW!! Alot of great info! Thanks guys! At the moment, I wont be doing any live plants. Maybe on my 2nd or 3rd tank. For now, i will be using fake plants for decoration. I don't think i'm ready for live plants yet.

Thanks for the info guys, I really appreciate it. I'm glad I found this forum!

 

[Silent Night]

No worries. All the best with the set up, you'll do great I'm sure.
Any queries, AA is the font of all aquatic knowledge! Lol

but seriously, you can't beat a planted aquarium if you're going tropical.

How far are you through the setup stage? Or are you live already?

 

[mjb018]

Thanks. I'll prolly do a live in the future.

As for my set up, I'm going to try and pick up my filter and the test kits today as I am off. Once I pick those up, I'll be setting them up inside my tv room/office room and put in the decorations and stuff.

 

[mgamer20o0]

Maintaining an optimal dissolved oxygen concentration is key to healthy water and inhabitants. Fish use oxygen for respiration, and cannot survive if oxygen levels drop below 2 ppm. Plants, on the other hand, use oxygen to break down carbon dioxide during photosynthesis.

In addition to fish and plants, there are numerous things that consume dissolved oxygen in water. Nitrying bacteria, for example, use oxygen when feeding on organic waste products, which is why overpopulation of a water system is often a contributing factor to poor water quality and inhabitant health: with all of the bacteria using oxygen to break down the added waste, there simply isn't enough oxygen to go around for fish and plants.

Plants absorb carbon dioxide and produce oxygen via photosynthesis. The problem is that this needs light to operate properly and once darkness falls, the process is reversed.

Therefore, it is highly possible for an adequately oxygenated aquarium to gradually become less well saturated and possibly become dangerously low on O2 to the point where its inhabitants are compromised. Occasionally we hear of people who switch on aeration devices only at night in planted tanks to increase the surface agitation.

though many people get enough from filters or power heads not to need additional aeration. i dont have a single tank where i add a air pump to help get more dissolved o2 into the water. majority of all tanks dont need it also.

 

[Silent Night]

majority of all tanks dont need it also.

fact, or opinion? You decide

happy tanking MJB

 

[krap101]

Most tanks have some sort of agitation as a byproduct of filtration (hob drop water into the tanks, canister filters can point their spray bar up towards the surface) Air stones don't get oxygen into the water because they're pumping air down, but rather (a vast majority at least) comes from the surface agitation created by the bubbles as they hit the surface. The bubbles are too big (large volume vs surface area) and rise too quickly to be absorbed at any significant amount in the aquarium and most is outgassed in the air above the tank. That is why air stones are a terrible way to try to inject co2 into the aquarium. Injectors work to either reduce the radius of the bubbles (mazzei, power diffuser or glass diffuser) or slow them down (bubble ladder)

 

[mjb018]

All right guys, wasn't able to get my supplies to day as the pet stores were closed due to it being a local holiday here, so i gotta wait until tomorrow after work to pick up the supplies and get started with cycling etc etc....

Thanks again.