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Mumma - What kind of background is that on your 17g Low Tech tank?
 
It's a foam background. Just a generic chain store one I cut to fit and wedged it in. You can make your own carving out styrofoam and adding cement paint. I don't know the exact details but I'd like to try one day.
 
That will be a project for another time. I think I'll just purchase some black vinyl or whatever it is for now. Do you know if I can start dosing with Seachem Excel and the Comprehensive Supplement while my tank is in the cycling process, or should I wait until the cycle is finished?
 
scottb said:
That will be a project for another time. I think I'll just purchase some black vinyl or whatever it is for now. Do you know if I can start dosing with Seachem Excel and the Comprehensive Supplement while my tank is in the cycling process, or should I wait until the cycle is finished?

You can spray paint the back of the tank. Gives a nice even finish unlike the stick on backings. You can start dosing now if you like. Won't effect the cycle in any way.
 
Ideally I would love to spray paint the back black, but as my tank sits right now, I would have to remove all the water and start the cycle over if I wanted to do that. I will have to do this some other time, when my tank is empty. Actually, do you think I can remove some water into a bucket when the cycle is finished, paint it, then put the water that I placed in the bucket back into my tank? Also, thank you for letting me know about the dosing.
 
If you want to paint it it would be easier now when there are no fish in the tank. It won't start the cycle over if you drain the water. Just dose the ammonia back up afterwards.
 
Okay, thanks. The point of dosing the ammonia back afterwards is to make sure that the bacteria is properly working in my tank correct? Meaning, once I add ammonia back into my tank, it should read 0ppm if my tank was cycled successfully right?
 
scottb said:
Okay, thanks. The point of dosing the ammonia back afterwards is to make sure that the bacteria is properly working in my tank correct? Meaning, once I add ammonia back into my tank, it should read 0ppm if my tank was cycled successfully right?

Yes that's right at the end of the cycle the ammonia and nitrite are 0 in 24 hours.
What I was saying is that if you want to paint the tank at any time during the cycle it's ok to drain the tank and paint, then add water and ammonia back in when your done. Just keep the filter media wet. :)
 
So you're saying I can completely drain my tank before my cycle is finished, and it will still be fine? Also, when you say keep the filter media wet, what do you mean exactly?

UPDATE: Began dosing Seachem Excel and the Comprehensive Supplement today. Also, my API Master Test Kit should arrive today, so I will know what my ammonia levels are soon enough!
 
scottb said:
So you're saying I can completely drain my tank before my cycle is finished, and it will still be fine? Also, when you say keep the filter media wet, what do you mean exactly?

UPDATE: Began dosing Seachem Excel and the Comprehensive Supplement today. Also, my API Master Test Kit should arrive today, so I will know what my ammonia levels are soon enough!

You can completely drain your tank at anytime and your cycle will be fine. Most of the bacteria live in the filter. The amount in the water is minuscule. Keeping the filter media (sponge, biomax, etc) wet keeps the bacteria alive. So if your going to mess with the tank and the filters going to be off with a chance of drying out its best to move it to a bucket or something to keep it wet.
 
Thanks for the advice. I may put off spray painting the back for some other time though, because I would need to move the tank from the upstairs to either the garage or the basement (ventilated area) if I wanted to do it. And it's just too much of a hassle right now. Would be nice if I could just do it in the room upstairs haha.
 
Yea, did see that some people painted on the back of their tanks. I am going to purchase some self adhesive black vinyl for the time being and will eventually paint or spray paint the back.

UPDATE: Tested my water today, and here are the results
pH = 7.6, Ammonia = 4.0ppm, Nitrite = 0ppm, and Nitrate 0ppm
So far everything seems to be where it needs to be. One question I did have though is that it says I should try and maintain 4.0ppm for as long as possible, and eventually I will no longer be able to maintain 4.0ppm. Anyone know what it means to "maintain" 4.0ppm?
 
hey scott

we have the same set up! I have a 36g bf i bought from petsmart but I switched out the aqeon filter for AC 50 ( since it goes for a 50g tank). are u doing salt or fresh? I find the mondo grass grows very well with the light provided w very little maintance! good luck
 
kelley - Hello, and welcome! I am doing freshwater. Instead of purchasing a different filter, I purchased another Aqueon filter which is good up to 20g. I changed the stock bulb for a Coralife 50/50 17W T8. It's 50% 10,000K Daylight 50% True Actinic Bluelight. Eventually I will invest in a T5HO fixture.

Do you currently have fish in your tank? If so, did you cycle your tank using fish, or did you do a fishless cycle? Do you have a backing on your tank? Also, any other additional information or suggestions you have are much appreciated! =)
 
scottb said:
Yea, did see that some people painted on the back of their tanks. I am going to purchase some self adhesive black vinyl for the time being and will eventually paint or spray paint the back.

UPDATE: Tested my water today, and here are the results
pH = 7.6, Ammonia = 4.0ppm, Nitrite = 0ppm, and Nitrate 0ppm
So far everything seems to be where it needs to be. One question I did have though is that it says I should try and maintain 4.0ppm for as long as possible, and eventually I will no longer be able to maintain 4.0ppm. Anyone know what it means to "maintain" 4.0ppm?

From what I've heard you have to top the ammonia back up to 4ppm once it reaches 1ppm or lower or once a day once the cycle starts progressing. I'm not 100% on that though. Never done a fishless myself. :)
 
Mumma - Thanks, I reread the instructions from the link you sent me and that's also what I got from it. To wait until it drops to 1ppm and then dose it back to 4ppm. I have a question regarding the API Master Test Kit. I tested the pH of my water using both the low and the high range pH solutions. And yes, I put the solutions into separate tubes. The odd thing is when I use the the regular pH test, I get a reading of what looks to be 7.6, but when I test the water with the high range solution, I get a reading of 8.2, according to the color chart. Ever hear of anything like this? Just though this was weird. Also, isn't my pH too high then? And if it is, any good suggestions on lowering it? Thanks for all your help!

UPDATE: After doing some research, I guess it's a good thing that my pH is currently on the high end. I assume I shouldn't be worried about the pH until after my cycle is finished and I am ready to put my first fish into their new home, whew.
 
The high range kit picks up where the low range stops. So if your getting 7.6 on the low and 8.2 on the high your pH is 8.2. 8.2 isn't too high. If your pH was in the 9s or 5s then you would have an issue. Most fish can adapt fine to any pH as long as it is stable. Once you start messing with it causing fluctuations the fish can get stressed and sick or even die from it. So it's best to leave it be.
 
The high pH may be an issue if I want to keep GBR's. While I know that each species differs depending on how they were raised, as well as other factors, I found that the general consensus is a pH range of 6.4 - 6.8 for GBR's. I also heard that they prefer soft water, so I plan to go get a GH and KH kit tomorrow. I still have to look up what GH and KH range I should be aiming for.
 
Try and find local bred GBR. Ones born and raised in higher pH. They should be fine. Another option is using half RO water and half tap water to lower everything. There is a thread called 'pH and rams' or something like that. I didn't read it but it should contain some useful info on the matter. I'm positive there are members that have GBRs in hard, high pH water.
 
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