So if I am changing 50% of the water about every 3 days how do I know when a cycle is finished? I know I am supposed to measure the nitrates and nitrites but if I am changing the water that much how do you ever complete a cycle. One of my fish was very lethargic today and not moving, so we tested for ammonia and it was in the stress zone. We changed the water and he is back moving around fine. I am just worried that with all this changing water the cycle will never end. I guarantee my water will be cloudy again by tomorrow. That tells me there is another new bacteria bloom. So is there going to be a point when I change the water and it stays clear? I have read that the beneficial bacteria lives in the substrate and bio-filter so I would assume I will achieve the cycle eventually, but by changing the water so much aren't I prolonging the cycle completing?
How often do I need to change a Freshwater tank after a successful cycle
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So if I am changing 50% of the water about every 3 days how do I know when a cycle is finished? I know I am supposed to measure the nitrates and nitrites but if I am changing the water that much how do you ever complete a cycle. One of my fish was very lethargic today and not moving, so we tested for ammonia and it was in the stress zone. We changed the water and he is back moving around fine. I am just worried that with all this changing water the cycle will never end. I guarantee my water will be cloudy again by tomorrow. That tells me there is another new bacteria bloom. So is there going to be a point when I change the water and it stays clear? I have read that the beneficial bacteria lives in the substrate and bio-filter so I would assume I will achieve the cycle eventually, but by changing the water so much aren't I prolonging the cycle completing?
If you are doing a fish in cycle you should be testing daily for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If your ammonia and nitrite combined are 0.5ppm or higher then you should do a 25% water change. When you are consistently seeing 0ppm ammonia and nitrite and your nitrate is steadily rising you are cycled sufficiently for your current stocking.
When cycled you should be doing water changes to keep your nitrate below 40ppm (or preferably 20ppm). If 50% weekly water changes doesn't keep you below 40ppm you are overstocked.
When cycled you should be doing water changes to keep your nitrate below 40ppm (or preferably 20ppm). If 50% weekly water changes doesn't keep you below 40ppm you are overstocked.
So how will we ever get to a cycled tank if we keep changing 25% of the water every time the ammonia and nitrites spike?
Because eventually your ammonia and nitrite wont spike. That's when you are cycled.
charliebankston
Aquarium Advice Addict
Thanks Aiken... and no OP, your water doesn't affect your cycle in regards to the beneficial bacteria. It only lives on surfaces, mainly in your filter media. Changing the water frequently like your having to do only keeps your fish alive, it won't prolong or stall the aquarium cycling
charliebankston
Aquarium Advice Addict
The water doesn't do any cycling. Ie, you can't add "cycled water" to a new tank and make it cycled. The bb still has to grow on surfaces
I agree that changing the water regularly will prolong the cycle process. Thats one of the benefits of a fishless cycle. Begininng to end (0 stock to fully stocked) its much quicker.
Some people will do fish in cycle without water changes. They throw in some goldfish and when they die, they replace them. Rinse and repeat until they stop dying. Quicker, but not a good idea if you care about the fish.
Some people will do fish in cycle without water changes. They throw in some goldfish and when they die, they replace them. Rinse and repeat until they stop dying. Quicker, but not a good idea if you care about the fish.
The reason water changes will prolong the cycle is that you are removing the food source for your bacteria and thus restricting the growth rate. You still need to consider your fishes health even though it will prolong the process.
With a fishless cycle you can safely allow the bacteria to grow in much higher concentrations of ammonia, and therefore it will grow that much quicker.
With a fishless cycle you can safely allow the bacteria to grow in much higher concentrations of ammonia, and therefore it will grow that much quicker.
Can anyone tell me why I would still see 0.5 ppm ammonia after doing a 25% then a 50% water change because I was still getting .5 ppm ammonia? I added seqchem prime to reduce the ammonia so I am hoping that helps. For awareness I am using seqchem stability once a day, a pH buffer, and a dechlorinator when I do the water changes.
What test kit are you using?
Also, prime wont reduce ammonia. It claims to detoxify ammonia for a short period, and im sure someone will be along shortly to tell you it doesnt even do that.
Also, prime wont reduce ammonia. It claims to detoxify ammonia for a short period, and im sure someone will be along shortly to tell you it doesnt even do that.
charliebankston
Aquarium Advice Addict
Haha! I did read that prime can give you false readings within a 24 hr window of using it tho. I don't know how true that is. I use prime too, so I don't know. I've also read what you said, it just detoxifies for a period
charliebankston
Aquarium Advice Addict
I use stability too, among others. Lots of fish keepers say the bb in a bottle doesn't work..... and maybe it doesn't. I always fish in cycle and have never lost one that way. I use it according to the directions. I always figured it couldn't hurt, and maybe it helps a little. It's no genie, but it might do something good
Ill save fishwonder from posting the link. I dont use prime, and dont particularly want to get into a discussion about what it does or doesn't do. But its an interesting read.
https://aquariumscience.org/index.php/5-5-3-2-prime-and-safe/
charliebankston
Aquarium Advice Addict
Haha! That made me lol
You sum up my opinion on bottled bacteria. The one ive seen most bad reviews about is stability though. Nitrite in a bottle is how its often described.
Ive had best results with Dr Tims One and Only.
charliebankston
Aquarium Advice Addict
I've used dr tims also with good results. I mostly use fluval cycle with water changes. The only one I'm not a fan of is the tetra safe start. It's a one time use product, and I can't believe dumping bb in the tank one time only will do anything. Except take your money. That is an interesting article on prime. I just read the cover pages. I also like to use api stress coat when water changing, due to having alot of cichlids and they always seem to have a nipped fin or tail. I have a 100g with 30 African cichlids in it, and they flash and rub alot if I use prime in their tank
charliebankston
Aquarium Advice Addict
Interesting read on there about stress coat also. Dangers of the aloe blend. Learn something new every day. I'll switch to just a regular conditioner
I am using Jungle Ammonia test strips and Tetra 5-in-1 test strips to monitor my levels. I bought them before knowing about all this. I am going to stick with using them. I did test the ammonia after using Prime and it took my levels down, I have seen that it is only supposed to last 48 hours but that should be fine while cycling.
charliebankston
Aquarium Advice Addict
For sure
I would recommend getting a liquid test kit rather than strips. Liquid test kits are generally considered more accurate, they are certainly easier to read. The strips i have are really only good for seeing the difference between 0 ammonia and high ammonia, they certainly would be no good for telling the difference between 0.25 and 1.0ppm.
API liquid test kit is a good one. In the long run liquid tests are cheaper as you get 100s out of them.
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