Hi all! I'll be upgrading my tank soon and was really interested in cichlids, particularly the kenyi african cichlids. Right now I have albino cory cats and neons. I figure in the future I'll have problems with the neons becoming snacks, but would the corys be compatible? Also would there be anything special I'd have to do for these guys? Right now i have an established tank and will nd getting a new one for my birthday. I'm not sure what size it will be (over 30 gallons), is there a basic rule such as ___ gallons for the first fish then ____ gallons for every fish after that, or is the general 1" per gallon rule a guidline here as well? Thanks for any help and advice I've been doing some research of my own but I'd like to hear from experience!
interested in African cichlids
- Thread starter water12
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garfy
Aquarium Advice Addict
With the Kenyi your going to need a 55 gallon minimum as they are highly aggressive mbuna.I mean at the top of the aggressive scale.
Your cory's will be butchered sooner or later.
If its catfish you want with them look at some of the smaller species of synodontis such as Petricola or Multipunctatus.Lovely looking fish and very active too.
Your cory's will be butchered sooner or later.
If its catfish you want with them look at some of the smaller species of synodontis such as Petricola or Multipunctatus.Lovely looking fish and very active too.
Ovid
Aquarium Advice Regular
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2012
- Messages
- 60
water12 said:
The inch per gallon rule is really a bad rule for larger fish. For tetras, gourami, etc, it can be used as a good measure, but as you can imagine, 12 1" neons are far less than 1 12" Cichlid in terms of space requirements. If you can swing it, I would recommend a minimum of a 55 gallon tank (4ft wide). Most of the small to medium sized Cichlids would do well in that environment, as long as you mix compatible species,
The Kenyis I have had always turned out too aggressive for the communities I have put together, but I did not look into what would work well with them before I had them. They were among the top 5 aggressive I have personally kept (Johannis and Auratus would be 1 and 2 in terns of aggression I have had to deal with, but I am sure there are others).
Cory catfish would not necessarily do well with Cichlids, since they prefer lower pH levels and African Cichlids do better with higher pH. Granted they could be acclimated to a middle-ground, but it would not be what is best for either of them. To maintain a stable pH and hardness for Cichlids, it is very common to use crushed coral as a substrate or additive. There are other ways to preserve healthy levels, but the crushed coral is one of the simplest methods.
The main thing to remember when preparing a new aquarium is to be patient and allow the tank to fully cycle before adding fish. Keeping the filter media from your current aquarium (must remain wet - as in the current tank) will help expedite the process, but a test kit will be needed to ensure all necessary parameters are met before adding fish.
I am sure you will receive plenty of advice from others here as well, but the best advice is to double-check any answer you are given. Though we have a lot of experts here, it is difficult to know everything with the hobby and everyone can always learn something new. Usually the majority of the people answering the same way is a good indicator of what the right answer is, and you will begin to learn which members are likely to usually give correct answers. Good luck with your b-day present, I'm sure you will enjoy it.
RLBeausoleil
Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Tank Size: A 55 gallon tank is the absolute minimum and that's if you stick with small cichlids who are less aggressive. Since you like Maylandia lombardoi (kenyi) the bigger the tank the better. Water quality is also easier to maintain in a larger tank. Aquariums are expensive. The best advice for buying your aquarium is keep an eye on craig's list. I bought my 150 gallon full set up for $150. My 90 gallon was more pricey at $200, but everything is high end. Lastly my 75 gallon full set up was free.
Filtration: Cichlids are beautiful fish and to really shine they need their water quality to be maintained. Large over the back filters are okay, but canister filters are a much better option. Once you become more advanced a refugium system is a good idea. Again readymade refugiums are expensive but they are an easy DYI project and there are many videos on youtube to help. Also circulation fans are a good idea to keep water moving and to prevent nasty junk from building up in all the nooks and crannies mbuna cichlids like to hang out in.
Substrate: Gravel is okay but to keep the pH your cichlids will need it is best to buy a substrate just for them, such as CaribSea African Cichlid Mix Sahara Sand. Sand is also better than other options because mbuna cichlids like to dig.
Decor: Mbuna cichlids are rock dwellers and they are territorial. Make sure they have plenty of caves to hang out in. It's kind of weird how expensive rocks can be. I know some who are okay with finding them outside testing them by either using vinegar. Another way of testing them is by placing the rocks in a bucket of water testing the water then waiting a week and retest the water to see if it changes. Honestly this is one area I don't go cheap in. Pulling a free rock out of my garden isn't worth the lives of my babies. I like the way texas holey rock looks, which is amazing when paired with the sand I mentioned.
Water: They like a pH of 7.7 to 8.4. Ammonia nitrate and nitrite need to be kept as close to 0 ppm as possible. The rift lakes have a lot of minerals in them so keep a moderately hard water.
Compatibility: It would be best to stick with other mbuna cichlids. There are many to choose from and a lot of mbuna are dimorphic which gives even more variety. Dimorphic means that the male and female look COMPLETELY different. Kenyi are dimorphic. In one of the sections of my one fry tank I have 50 kenyi fry. Right now they are all a metallic lavender color with black stripes. Eventually some will be a brilliant lemony yellow color.
Dealing with aggression: Mbuna are territorial with very feisty personalities. If you have problems with one of your little fish having a big attitude there are a few ways to deal with it. Moving around your decorations is an easy fix. It works because that hole he was guarding with such vigor that he was attacking any fish that came within 6 inches no longer exists. Moving around decorations is also a good idea when adding a new fish. It will save your new friend a whole lot of drama and his fins. If rearranging the furniture doesn't help remove the aggressor and put his tail in time out for a few days. When you put him back in the main tank he will feel like the new fish.
Other things to know: WC is wild caught. F1 means that the both the fish's parents are wild caught. I'm sure you can figure out what F2 means. These fish are more expensive and you won't find them in pet stores.
Things to look into: Some diseases or more common in cichlids
Filtration: Cichlids are beautiful fish and to really shine they need their water quality to be maintained. Large over the back filters are okay, but canister filters are a much better option. Once you become more advanced a refugium system is a good idea. Again readymade refugiums are expensive but they are an easy DYI project and there are many videos on youtube to help. Also circulation fans are a good idea to keep water moving and to prevent nasty junk from building up in all the nooks and crannies mbuna cichlids like to hang out in.
Substrate: Gravel is okay but to keep the pH your cichlids will need it is best to buy a substrate just for them, such as CaribSea African Cichlid Mix Sahara Sand. Sand is also better than other options because mbuna cichlids like to dig.
Decor: Mbuna cichlids are rock dwellers and they are territorial. Make sure they have plenty of caves to hang out in. It's kind of weird how expensive rocks can be. I know some who are okay with finding them outside testing them by either using vinegar. Another way of testing them is by placing the rocks in a bucket of water testing the water then waiting a week and retest the water to see if it changes. Honestly this is one area I don't go cheap in. Pulling a free rock out of my garden isn't worth the lives of my babies. I like the way texas holey rock looks, which is amazing when paired with the sand I mentioned.
Water: They like a pH of 7.7 to 8.4. Ammonia nitrate and nitrite need to be kept as close to 0 ppm as possible. The rift lakes have a lot of minerals in them so keep a moderately hard water.
Compatibility: It would be best to stick with other mbuna cichlids. There are many to choose from and a lot of mbuna are dimorphic which gives even more variety. Dimorphic means that the male and female look COMPLETELY different. Kenyi are dimorphic. In one of the sections of my one fry tank I have 50 kenyi fry. Right now they are all a metallic lavender color with black stripes. Eventually some will be a brilliant lemony yellow color.
Dealing with aggression: Mbuna are territorial with very feisty personalities. If you have problems with one of your little fish having a big attitude there are a few ways to deal with it. Moving around your decorations is an easy fix. It works because that hole he was guarding with such vigor that he was attacking any fish that came within 6 inches no longer exists. Moving around decorations is also a good idea when adding a new fish. It will save your new friend a whole lot of drama and his fins. If rearranging the furniture doesn't help remove the aggressor and put his tail in time out for a few days. When you put him back in the main tank he will feel like the new fish.
Other things to know: WC is wild caught. F1 means that the both the fish's parents are wild caught. I'm sure you can figure out what F2 means. These fish are more expensive and you won't find them in pet stores.
Things to look into: Some diseases or more common in cichlids
Alright thanks for the help! I really do appreciate it. I did not realize that the kenyi were the most aggressive species, they are beautiful fish. I went tank browsing yesterday and it looks like I'm getting a 45, so ill have to look into other cichlids possibly. My boyfriend refuses to get a tank from Craigslist, he'd rather spend the money on a new tank then trust a used one. I'm on the fence now due to being quite attached to my Corys. I've looked at possibly getting a pair of Bolivian rams, would they do better with the corys?
garfy
Aquarium Advice Addict
Rams would be perfect with cory's.
Sillyfishies
Aquarium Advice Addict
Dwarf gouramis and my personal favorites, apistogramma would be great for a 45. Dwarf gouramis are cichlids but they're beautiful. Apistogramma are and have a bunch of different sub species. Check em out!
Freakgecko91
Aquarium Advice Addict
Sillyfishies said:
Ummm dwarf gouramis are NOT cichlids lol and apistogramma is a genus, not a species. There are many many different apisto species, as well as different locales within many of those species, but they are not breeds or sub species. Just for clarification.
Sillyfishies
Aquarium Advice Addict
Well ya dwarf gouramis are gouramis! Hah I had it typed out originally typed out that dwarf gouramis aren't cichlids but are pretty fish. And about the apistogramma I didn't know that thanks.
Edit* I said "dwarf gouramis are cichlids" in my other post and I'm on an iPod touch and it was a I typo I ment arent*!
Edit* I said "dwarf gouramis are cichlids" in my other post and I'm on an iPod touch and it was a I typo I ment arent*!
I had a dg in the past and after
2 weeks it died of dgd, scales pine cones, not being able to stay upright, lethargic, and when it wasnt under a plant it would flip over and float to the top. I was in love with that fish, it eS a female red flame? If I get the Bolivians then would I need to get that special substrate mentioned earlier? I don't know a lot about apistos, are they a decent comunity fish or should they be kept in their own aquarium? Somewhat of a species only?
2 weeks it died of dgd, scales pine cones, not being able to stay upright, lethargic, and when it wasnt under a plant it would flip over and float to the top. I was in love with that fish, it eS a female red flame? If I get the Bolivians then would I need to get that special substrate mentioned earlier? I don't know a lot about apistos, are they a decent comunity fish or should they be kept in their own aquarium? Somewhat of a species only?
Freakgecko91
Aquarium Advice Addict
Some of the dwarf cichlid genuses common in the trade are apistogramma, mikrogeophagus (aka rams), dicrossus (checkerboard cichlid), laetacara, nannacara, pelvichachromic pulcher (Kribensis), neolamprologus sp., and lamprologus sp. I'm sure there is more, but that should get you started. Just google those and find species you like! Easiest way to do it 
all of the genuses/species are typically community fish, especially Apistos. Also check out cleithocara maronii, or keyhole cichlid, as these are said to be one of the most peaceful cichlids, however may get a bit large for your tank
all of the genuses/species are typically community fish, especially Apistos. Also check out cleithocara maronii, or keyhole cichlid, as these are said to be one of the most peaceful cichlids, however may get a bit large for your tank
Sillyfishies
Aquarium Advice Addict
Pelvicachromis Pulchers are BEAUTIFUL
bettaowner
Aquarium Advice Addict
Kribs are nice fish but can be aggressive when they breed. This happens very often so maybe one male or one female.
Ovid
Aquarium Advice Regular
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2012
- Messages
- 60
bettaowner said:
And breed, they will...
I do like the Kribensis I have, but to be honest, I wish all the ones I have were all female.
