Just got my first tank! Is this a good guide?

[V10]

Hello AA folks. I just wanted to introduce myself as a new member of this forum. I recently got the urge to start this hobby and just got my first tank, an all-glass 46g bow-front. The cycling guide I'm following is on fishtankguy.com, I was hoping some more experienced folks might take a look and let me know if it's a pretty solid guide? I've read some controversy about using goldfish for cycling fish, I've decided not to use goldfish, since in the long run I will not have any goldfish in this tank. My lfs recommend some small orange minnow looking fish, I forget the name of them now, but they are only 80cents each. I'm planning on putting 4 in to start.

http://www.fishtankguy.com/setup.php

Right now, my tank has only substrate and water. I'm going back to the pet store tonight to get some decorations to provide some hiding spots for the cycling fish. I do plan on getting live plants for the tank. Is it better to put the decorations and plants in the tank before I get the fish, or can I add live plants at a later time to the tank?

-Steve

 

[jcarlilesiu]

It is often advised on this board to do a fishless cycle, which more information can be found about it in the stickies. I however have always done a fishy cycle and have had virtually no problems or losses.

There should be no problem adding plants after the tank is established.

Overall the article you linked looks very informative, and a good read. For additional information, all the topics on starting a tank are listed in the stickies under "getting started" on this board.

oh... AND WELCOME TO AA!


*edit
Ok, the more and more i read this link you sent the more problems i have with it...

"Undergravel Filters - good for all types of freshwater fish tanks. Using rising air bubbles of submersible powerheads draws water through your gravel for a physical and biological filter. This is probably one of the best and most affordable bio filters you can set up in any freshwater aquarium. Make sure to use powerhead pumps that will turn over your aquarium's water at least 6-8 times per hour, and point them slightly up so they ripple the aquarium's surface for better gas exchange. This filter is the most common and is actually one of the most effective when used properly. "

I couldn't disagree more. UGF are not a good option for tropical aquariums as they are a huge ammonia producer. I have found dead baby fish under mine from fertalized eggs going through my substrate and traping the babies down there until they eventually died. They hold mulm down there to the degree that it is impossible to get it out, and overall I don't think the gph of filtered water by UFG make the cut. I would steer away from this system as im sure i have not listed all the "problems" with this type of filtration.


Other than that, i agree with "most" of what is said

 

[V10]

Thanks for the Welcome!, yeah I'm unsure about ugf's also, the guide said they were really good, so I did a google on them to see how much one costs and how to set it up, when I found this link:

http://www.bestfish.com/ug.html UGF Controversy

It was enough to leave me content with the hanging filter the LFS recommended.

I'm now exploring all the "stickies"

*edit, I'm reading the posts about fishless, I originally wanted do a fishless when I first saw it, but it seemed complicated. I think i'm going to give it a go b/c I really wanted to take time with it and get the right amount of rock/plant balance and placement before I add fish.

-Steve

 

[jcarlilesiu]

Good to hear... well welcome to AA if you have any questions or anything else... just ask, glad to have ya around

 

[bosk1]

Sounds like you're on the right track. Here's the quick, simple overview of the fishless cycle:

You need two things: an ammonia source (pure ammonia with no additives, which is pretty easy to find, and really cheap; or raw shrimp), and a good test kit that will test ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Test strips are often inaccurate and cause headaches. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit (get yours at Big Al's online!) is relatively inexpensive and very good. During the process, you are trying to grow two different bacteria colonies. The first type of bacteria converts the highly toxic ammonia to slightly less toxic nitrites. The second type converts nitrites into much less toxic nitrates. High concentrations of nitrates can still be harmful, but you can keep your nitrates in check by doing frequent (7-10 days) water changes of 30-50%. You MUST dechlorinate your water before beginning your cycle, and each time you change water because chlorine and chloramines kill your fish AND your beneficial bacteria. You also want to get your temperature close to ideal and make sure your PH isn't drastically off before beginning, or either factor may also hinder your cycle. But it's really not that complicated. Okay, so here's how you begin.

First, your tank needs an ammonia source. If you are using raw shrimp or fish food, it will produce ammonia once it starts decomposing. If you are using pure ammonia, you are a step ahead. It will take a while for the bacteria to start really growing and processing ammonia. You will know when it starts to happen because your nitrites will start climbing. Once this happens, you will need to make sure you are still dosing ammonia so this bacteria doesn't starve off and die.

Second, another type of bacteria will eventually grow and begin eating your nitrites. You will know this is happening once nitrites peak, and then start falling, and nitrates begin climbing. Once your ammonia and nitrites have peaked, and then fallen back to zero, you are ready for fish. This second type of bacteria takes longer to grow and multiply, so this stage takes longer.

By the way, the bacteria do not just float around in the water. They attach to your substrate, your filter media, etc. So water changes do not remove your beneficial bacteria and will not stall or restart your cycle.

Hope that helps.

 

[V10]

thanks bosk, that helps.

I want to work on a planted tank, will I be able to just pick whatever plants strike my fancy, or are there bad fish/plant combinations that might cause death or disease? And will live plants help / hurt / or not affect a fishless cycle? I'm guessing since you said the bacteria like to stick to substrate/filter then they would like to stick to plants too?

*edit, I just found the "article" section of the site. reading reading reading.

 

[rich311k]

You can plant any aquatic plants you want. Just make sure they will survive in your light levels or you will be wasting your money. Some fish do eat plants. Just research the fish you want to buy before you get them.

 

[V10]

Well I'm about 2 weeks into cycling since adding 5 zebra danios. How long will it take before I see nitrites/nitrates? I would have thought I'd see some by now. I'm using a "master freshwater" test kit (glass tubes and stuff, not strips).

So far my ammonia upped to 1ppm after about day 3 and stayed there. 0ppm for nitrites/nitrates and PH is steady at 7.0 My temperature is 75 degrees.

I have not performed a pwc yet as the ammonia is staying at 1ppm.