lighting

[Old Scales]

Wow guys! Good information, data and discussion. Thank you As I have learned alot. I'll be able to make a better decision, hopefully, when it comes time to replace my Aquaticlife Quad T5HO fluorescent or need another fixture on a future tank. LOL, the way I'm going the Aquaticlife is probably going to outlive me.
A good honest, factual discussion without getting personal. OS.

 

[Brian_Nano12g]

I've tried Finnex, Fluval, Current, and now Ecoxotic LED fixtures.. not any one of these fixtures has crapped out on me.

I kid you not, some of you may know my story, but last December I had a fire at my house. Faulty appliance electrical fire in the kitchen (not aquarium lighting!). Anyways, a firefighter knocked one of my Current Satellite LED+ fixtures in the water. I had to leave it like that for 4 days so the insurance adjuster can tally that loss. After moving to our new place, about 2 weeks after, I was about to toss the fixture and not risk using it. I decided to take it apart to explore the electronics and see how the legs remove because I was curious of new ways to suspend the fixture (in case i wanted to try it on the replacement). Upon dismantling it, it still look good as new. So I said what the heck.. plugged it in and it turned right on with not one LED out.. modes still worked and all.

Here's the fixture (aka: crime scene)



I don't condone submerging your fixtures or anything... But if that doesn't scream quality, I'm not sure what does.

 

[Delapool]

The fans for my led units are meant to be the least reliable. I think they are basically computer fans and the lfs has a box of them if one goes. So far all good.


Sent by iPhone using AA

 

[schoeplein]

BML, and most LED strips, don't need fans (unless you've got it in a sealed hood or something).

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Mebbid]

BML, and most LED strips, don't need fans (unless you've got it in a sealed hood or something).

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

The primary cause of LEDs wearing out early is heat buildup. Fans help keep the bulbs cool so that they last longer. Not needed but it's a good thing.

 

[Delapool]

BML, and most LED strips, don't need fans (unless you've got it in a sealed hood or something).

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

It's a good question - pics included below if that helps? No idea if any good although certainly more light than I had. These are like a box unit and are 110w (equivalent to 250w metal halide on the box whatever that means). My impression on reading and from the lfs was that these are not quite suited to FW (not enough customers in FW lighting).

They do run cool with the hood off but under the hood get pretty warm. I try to leave the hood up when they are on to get more air flow.

I'd like to order some BML LEDs but these are nice in that I know they will fit under.

I have a 'cheap' 35w strip led light at the front of these as I find these are a bit like a spotlight. In the shop they were mounted about a foot above the tank from the ceiling (whereas I'm banned from that) and that is probably a better location for them then I can do.








Sent by iPhone using AA

 

[Mebbid]

It's a good question - pics included below if that helps? No idea if any good although certainly more light than I had. These are like a box unit and are 110w (equivalent to 250w metal halide on the box whatever that means). My impression on reading and from the lfs was that these are not quite suited to FW (not enough customers in FW lighting).

They do run cool with the hood off but under the hood get pretty warm. I try to leave the hood up when they are on to get more air flow.

I'd like to order some BML LEDs but these are nice in that I know they will fit under.

I have a 'cheap' 35w strip led light at the front of these as I find these are a bit like a spotlight. In the shop they were mounted about a foot above the tank from the ceiling (whereas I'm banned from that) and that is probably a better location for them then I can do.



View attachment 241383

View attachment 241384


Sent by iPhone using AA

I have the same fixture. They are solid and powerful, fairly reliable, and very affordable. I've had mine for about a year now with no complaints.

 

[Delapool]

I have the same fixture. They are solid and powerful, fairly reliable, and very affordable. I've had mine for about a year now with no complaints.

That is good news. Looking at the spectrum I was a bit worried they were missing a bit of the reds for FW? A couple of months back I looked at an ideal plant spectrum and these looked a bit 'light on'.


Sent by iPhone using AA

 

[mattcham]

Thanks to everyone in this thread, I ordered a BML XB 10k. The 3 year warranty is what made me take the LED route over T5 HO. All other brands seem to have much lower PAR rating *and* much shorter warranty for the same price. I got the 10k over all other models due to higher PAR rating. Also got the 90 degree lens for more uniform PAR. Now I just have to build a hi tech CO2 setup to prevent algae bloom...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[dcutl002]

Any reason why you purchased the 10000K over the over the 6300K?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[aqua_chem]

Any reason why you purchased the 10000K over the over the 6300K?

This would be my question as well. I'm sure that more aesthetic spectrums would have turned out more than enough light for your needs.


Sent from my iPad using Aquarium Advice

 

[mattcham]

Any reason why you purchased the 10000K over the over the 6300K?

Couple of reasons:
1. The 10k had a lot more PAR than the Iwagumi 6.3k. I have a 24" tall tank.
2. I don't like the warmer golden tones on plants. I actually liked the 13k color rendering the best but the 13k unit also had less PAR. I know that PAR is not the only thing that matters and that the wavelength matters a lot too but the 10k has it all.