Lots of Algae Trouble- Any Advice?

[Bettafanatic]

My tank has been having some big algae problems recently. It used to be that I'd have some green algae growth on the tank walls. it wasn't a problem. I just removed it from the front glass every week, and having it on the side and back glass made it look more natural. But now things are getting out of hand. I now have three different types of algae- the normal soft, green algae, some hair-like algae that stays on the rock and isn't a problem, and a hard, scab-like algae that comes in circular shape. Now the green algae and hard green algae is growing on my plants and it looks extremely unattractive. What can I do to get rid of the algae growth? I don't mind it on the walls but how can I get rid of it on the plants? I try to get it off using a toothbrush but it's stuck on really tightly, so it does absolutely nothing. Anything I can change to make it better?

 

[BBradbury]

Algae Problems

My tank has been having some big algae problems recently. It used to be that I'd have some green algae growth on the tank walls. it wasn't a problem. I just removed it from the front glass every week, and having it on the side and back glass made it look more natural. But now things are getting out of hand. I now have three different types of algae- the normal soft, green algae, some hair-like algae that stays on the rock and isn't a problem, and a hard, scab-like algae that comes in circular shape. Now the green algae and hard green algae is growing on my plants and it looks extremely unattractive. What can I do to get rid of the algae growth? I don't mind it on the walls but how can I get rid of it on the plants? I try to get it off using a toothbrush but it's stuck on really tightly, so it does absolutely nothing. Anything I can change to make it better?

Hello Betta...

Your algae type reads like the normal, healthy algae that most tanks experience in different degrees of growth. Most of my tank's algae problems were my fault. I fed my fish and plants too much. If you feed more than the fish can eat, then it falls to the bottom and dissolves in the water. That's a perfect environment for algae. So, don't feed as much. Fish are tiny, with tinier stomachs. I feed a little frozen, twice a week. I have no added nutrients in the water and no visible algae.

Large, weekly water changes are a must. Change out half the tank water weekly. Get some floating plants going. I have Anacharis and Pennywort, these two are "nutrient hogs".

I keep some "Ramshorn" snails in all my tanks. These little guys put any of the so-called algae eating fish to shame.

I wouldn't mess with the lighting, but that's just me. If you mess with the lights, you can throw off the reproduction of your fish and long term, your good plants may not like it.

Just a couple of thoughts.

B

 

[Rivercats]

What kind of lighting and how long do you leave it on for daily? Algae grows for many reasons but when it begins trying to take over your tank is out of balance. How heavily is your tank planted? Do you use ferts? Do you a liquid carbon or CO2? Most of the time excess algae growth is partly due to lights being left on too many hours a day. A planted tank needs 6-8 hours of light daily. Also using liquid carbon such as Excel or CO2 aids plants in photosynthesis and growth which helps the plants to out complete algae. Do you know your nitrate and phosphate readings? These readings can tell you alot about your water and can help you determine what you tank may need or have an excess of. Once you get your tank balanced algae no longer becomes a problem because plants can out compete it.

 

[Bettafanatic]

I usually leave the lights on from 6:15 AM to 8:30 PM. On weekends, because my room is usually dark since I sleep in I set the timer to turn on the lights at 7:15 so the room can already be light from the sunrise. I dose Excel daily and my plants seem to like it. I have a lot of plants. Five dwarf anubias, six banana plants, two amazon swords, six cryptocorynes (most only have five leaves), and two java ferns. Once a week I dose potassium, nitrogen, iron, phosphorus, and trace and my plants respond well to these dosings. In my other tank that has zero algae I do the same and the plants love it too. I also use root tabs. Last time I tested nitrates, it was pretty low. I'll test nitrates and phosphates again and give you the readings. I change out 5 gallons of the tank water every week. Anything I can change to get rid of some algae? I also have a bucket of anacharis lying around. If I move some stuff around in my tank I could make room for it. Should I?

 

[Rivercats]

You really need to only leave lights on for 6 hours until you get the algae under control, feed really lightly, and adding a little anacharis won't hurt either. You want your nitrates to be between 10ppm and 20ppm and phosphates from .5 to 1ppm. I run a low nitrate tank due to having plants that prefer high phosphates and low nitrates so I keep my trates at 10ppm. Also did you have all the stems in the substrate planted together? When planting stems you need to plant each stem so its close to but not quite touching the stems around it. They need this space to recieve adequate light and water circulation to the lower stems or rotting and or leaf loss can occur. Usually if all your other plants are doing well there was something specific that plant wasn't getting. It sounds like you have everything running pretty well. Oh how much Excel do you use per 10 gallons? You can use 1ml per 10 gallons without issue. And have you ever heard of Glutaraldehyde? Its the same as using Excel except it cost $27 for a gallon that you mix with 1-1/2 gallons of RO water to get 2-1/2 gallons of Glut that is the same strength as Excel. Its very economical to use.

 

[Bettafanatic]

I'll look into that glut stuff. It sounds great. I'll lower the hours the lights are on too. I usually dose 5 mL of Excel a day. I'll switch to 4 mL to save. I'm going to test nitrates and phosphates now. My phosphate test kit is in storage with the rest of my saltwater stuff so I'll have to go and find it. And I'll see if I can make room for some anacharis. I'd have to take out one of the littler stalks of crypt and move the anubias over. Then I could probably fit some behind a piece of driftwood I have.

 

[Rivercats]

I'll look into that glut stuff. It sounds great. I'll lower the hours the lights are on too. I usually dose 5 mL of Excel a day. I'll switch to 4 mL to save. I'm going to test nitrates and phosphates now. My phosphate test kit is in storage with the rest of my saltwater stuff so I'll have to go and find it. And I'll see if I can make room for some anacharis. I'd have to take out one of the littler stalks of crypt and move the anubias over. Then I could probably fit some behind a piece of driftwood I have.

This is the product you want... Glutaraldehyde Cold Sterilization Solution 14 day 1 Gallon: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

You mix it 1 gallon of Glut to 1-1/2 gallons of RO water to get 2-1/2 gallons of Glut mix. Two things, first be sure to throw away the tiny activator bottle that comes taped to the gallon bottle of Glut. You never want to use it. Second be sure to store the Glut mix in totally light blocking bottles like the Glut comes in. Since you use Excel I'd wait till your bottle is empty and mix just enough Glut/RO mix to fill it. Thats what I do and it works great. Another thing is if your tank is doing good on 5ml of Excel daily don't lower that amount. If anything you can slowly up that amount in high light tanks or tanks with alot of plants. Sounds like you have alot of plants.

Another way to save money is once you get down on your liquid ferts look into getting dry ferts. You can get a micro and macro package from Greeenleaf aquariums for $20 and it will last your size tank over a year. I also bought their dosing bottles as it makes dosing so easy. I get 3 bottles and mix micro mix in one, nitrate mix in one, and the phosphate and potassium in another. By splitting the macro's into two bottles you can better customize the ferts to the needs of your tank. Here's a thread to read on dosing PPS-Pro which is what I use. Just read the original Post, it has the information you need....
Newbie Guide to PPS-Pro - PPS Analysis and Feedback - Aquatic Plant Central

 

[Bettafanatic]

Thank you so much! That's a really great help.

I'm not sure if i can get an RO unit. They're pretty expensive. Can I use bottled spring water instead?

I'll also look into dry ferts. Thanks for the link.

 

[Rivercats]

Thank you so much! That's a really great help.

I'm not sure if i can get an RO unit. They're pretty expensive. Can I use bottled spring water instead?

I'll also look into dry ferts. Thanks for the link.

I'm pretty sure you can use Distilled water which they sell at grocery stores. But also alot of large grocery stores have those fill your own water machines which happen to be RO water machines. It's really cheap too.

 

[Bettafanatic]

Ill go and check out my local grocery stores when I can.

Once the algae starts to go away, can I increase the daylight hours? Maybe not as long as they were but at least 8-10 hours?

 

[Hholly]

Is the tank near a window?

 

[Rivercats]

Personally I wouldn't go above 8 hours max per day.

 

[Bettafanatic]

Okay, I'll stick to eight hours then. And the tank isn't near a window. Thanks for all your help! I really appreciate it.

 

[dwayne.aycock]

Cut back on the lighting, and add CO2. Use root tabs for your root feeders and scrub out your hoses and filters. Leave the BB alone as much as you can. I had a similar problem and the drastic reduction of light and a CO2 booster did the trick in about 3 weeks. If you are using an airstone, only use it at night and turn it off during the day. O2 dissipates CO2 which the plants need as food. Plants use CO2 and sunlight during the day, and release O2 during the night. Give this a try and see what happens. After you get ahead of the algae, increase your water changes.
Good Luck!! Dwayne

 

[Bettafanatic]

Thanks for the tips! I can't get any co2, as i don't have a working regulator. I'll stick with Excel for now. I don't use an airstone.

I had to switch my filter because my original filter failed. I had to grab a spare Aqueon one that came with the tank. I left the BB there though because I had some ceramic rings that I put in the new filter.

 

[Brookechook]

Get snails or sucker fish

 

[Bettafanatic]

I have three trapdoor snails but they don't do much. I was thinking of getting some nerite snails or amano shrimp or maybe bristlenose pleco. What do you think?

 

[Rivercats]

I have three trapdoor snails but they don't do much. I was thinking of getting some nerite snails or amano shrimp or maybe bristlenose pleco. What do you think?

The only algae eater that can rasp off Green Spot Algae are nerite snails. And since they also eat bio-film, green dust algae, and diatoms they are about the best all around algae eater available IMO. Plus unlike a larger BNP they can go into much smaller areas and plants. Amano shrimp are good for hair algae but they have also been known to sometimes eat fine leaf plants such as Rotala Wallichii.

 

[Bettafanatic]

Awesome! I'll get some nerite snails then. I actually think I have some coming in the mail but I'm forget whether I got them or not. When I went to order some new fish for my tanks, I didn't reach the minimum of $29 so I got some nerite snails. If I did get them, I only got two so I'll see if my lfs has some more.

 

[Bettafanatic]

Algae is starting to go away. The amount is significantly lower. Gonna keep up with the 6 hour photoperiod for now. Thanks for the help!