My 20G Planted Tank

[callisto9]

^ Makes sense. I just always wonder about it every time I see it.

I've decided to pull as many of the ramshorns as I can find. They are way out of control. I had a local woman interested in some, so I pulled about 12 for her. I tossed about 10 and I'd guess I pulled about 20 more after that. I see so many eggs every time I look in the tank, so for now, I'm taking them all out. They got so out of control so quickly. I pluck the babies out constantly.

 

[CorallineAlgae]

I know I've said this before but my solution was to add a newt. He eats nearly all the baby snails in the tank. Their breeding feeds him and his eating controls the population. I never have more than a few ramshorns in my tank, but he never eats them all. He just can't fit the medium to large ones in his tummy. Chuck's the sheriff in his tank.

 

[Rivercats]

I know I've said this before but my solution was to add a newt. He eats nearly all the baby snails in the tank. Their breeding feeds him and his eating controls the population. I never have more than a few ramshorns in my tank, but he never eats them all. He just can't fit the medium to large ones in his tummy. Chuck's the sheriff in his tank.

When my kids were little we kept newts, different kinds in a couple tanks, but my favorite was this one California newt that ate everything but also loved his little snails!

 

[callisto9]

I'm at max capacity for bioload right now. I can't add anything else. How big are these newts and do they need above-water areas? I have to admit, I'm intrigued.

 

[callisto9]

I found a slightly better way to vac the substrate, too. I have this siphon:
Amazon.com: biOrb Cleaner Pump: Pet Supplies

Except mine doesn't have the extension. So, if I vac too close to the substrate, the Eco Complete gets sucked up in the short part of the vac filter, clogs it and water stops moving through it.

Today, I took wood skewer and stuck it down the middle of the end. This way, I can move it through the substrate, getting all the gunk to rise up, but no substrate is sucked up.

OK, boring story, I know, but it felt victorious to me.

 

[Rivercats]

That would be great! Well, some of them aren't doing well.

The amazon sword has deterioration - brown/yellow on the leaves. The other amazon sword has a leaf or two that looks 'eaten'/melted. The ludwigia repens always loses its bottom leaves (they turn brown and fall off), but the top is healthy. One anubia (the original) is doing great, the other two always look like crap. Leaf deterioration. Water wisteria always looks kinda beat-up, too. I'll pics tomorrow - the lights just went off for the evening.

Plants that seem to be doing mostly OK: anachris, java fern, ludwigia paulustris red, bacopa monnieri.

The Brazilian pennywort floats up top and covers about 25% of the surface of the tank.

I have one 8000K 15W light on for 8 hours a day (cut back from 16!) and I dose once a week with Seachem Flourish Comprehensive (not Excel). I do water changes each week of 3-6 gallons (think I'm going to stick with 6 for awhile until I get all the gunk cleaned out).

Any thoughts you could pass along would be greatly appreciated!

Lets start with the lower leaf loss on the stem plants. Usually it's from either the stems being planted too close together (they should be planted so each stem can almost but not quite touch the stems around it) which doesn't allow light or water circulation to the lower stem/leaves. Or it can be from a nutrient deficiency. Honestly your tank/plants would do much better using a balanced dosing of dry ferts of macro and micro nutrients. It will only cost about $20 and will last a year or two with your size tank. Flourish Comp is basically micro ferts with some calcium and magnesium added. Your tank get some nitrates and phosphates from fish waste and food but potassium is generally in short supply when not added. Or if you don't want to try dry ferts I would see about getting a bottle of Flouish Potassium. Another thing is I am a firm believer in knowing what your nitrate and phosphate readings are in a planted tank. Nitrates should be between 10-20ppm and phosphates .5-1ppm. API makes a phosphate test kit which would be a good investment. Knowing your readings helps in maintaining proper levels for good plant growth and helps keep your tank from getting excesses of one thing or another and your not knowing. On the swords trim off the bad leaves down as close to the bottom as you can. Cut the bad stem plants bottoms off and replant making sure to give proper spacing and be sure to keep the pennywort trimmed back so as not to block light from the stem plants especially. Also dosing Excel or glutaraldehyde will really help plant growth. The only thing is anacharis will melt using it. You can get Glut for about $27 including shipping, mix it with RO, and get 2-1/2 gallons. That is dirt cheap compared to Excel. You just need to get your tank balanced with the right nutrients, light, and co2 or liquid carbon and you will see a world of difference.

 

[callisto9]

Thank you SO MUCH for your help.

The dry ferts - what are they exactly, what kind do I need and where should I get them? Honestly, just trying to figure out dosing Flourish Comprehensive was hard enough. LOL

My nitrate readings are 10ppm.

I don't want to dose anything that will nuke my anachris though.

I do think my ludwigia repens is planted too close together, so I'll space those out next weekend when I do a water change.

I do pluck/trim all bad leaves and I have snipped off the bottoms of the ludwigia repens and replanted.

Thank you, again, for your help. I really appreciate it.

 

[Rivercats]

I get my dry ferts at Greenleaf Aquarium.com here is a link to the package deal that has all the micro and macro ferts you need... Micro & Macro | Aquarium Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums

I also suggest the 1000ml dosing bottles which makes dosing really easy... Fertilizer Dispenser | 1000 mL (32 oz) | Green Leaf Aquariums. I suggest getting three so you can mix your micro ferts in one bottle, your nitrates in one bottle, and your phosphates and potassium in the third bottle. Most people mix all three macro ferts (nitrates, phosphates, potassium) in one bottle but I like to split the nitrate in it's own bottle so that if you need to tweek one macro fert, like less nitrates but the same amount of P&P you can do adjusting easily. Also adding 5ml of Excel to every 250ml of micro and macro mix in the dosing bottles keeps the solutions fresh and keeps mold from forming in the solutions.

Here is the last link, you really only need to read the post down to the actually info about dosing PPS-Pro. The rest of the link really isn't important and don't want you getting distracted/confused by it. Also in the link they list magnesium MgSO4 to be added to the macro mix and you don't need it. Usually your tap water has all the magnesium in it you need plus you'll see it doesn't come as part of the macro mix. Read all this and then I can answer any questions.... Newbie Guide to PPS-Pro - PPS Analysis and Feedback - Aquatic Plant Central

 

[CorallineAlgae]

I'm at max capacity for bioload right now. I can't add anything else. How big are these newts and do they need above-water areas? I have to admit, I'm intrigued.

They're about 3" long, about the size of a medium dojo loach and they never get any bigger. They are fully aquatic at the life cycle they're sold at in pet shops, so they never need or want to leave the water. I'd put their bio load at or below that of something like a dwarf gourami. I feed my guy bloodworms from a pipette about three times a week since he already eats the ramshorns. Gotta say, he's my favorite pet. You definitely don't need one. It's just the option I went for and girl am I happy with him! My daughter is the one who usually feeds him by the way. She just loves feeding Chuck.

Oh, I also use the dry ferts from GLA. Rock solid stuff.

 

[Rivercats]

Do you have an Eastern Newt?

 

[callisto9]

OK, so going to do some thinking out loud. First of all, HOLY CRAP, this seems complex. But I'll read and let this sink in.

2nd, it seems I have .75wpg (One 15W bulb and 20G), which would be low low low light and I can have my lights on 12+ hours a day...right? I did have my lights on about 16 hours a day and someone (can't remember who) said that was WAY too much light and to cut back to 8 (I think I was experiencing diatoms).

Then this:
How do I dose PPS-Pro solutions?
Dose 1 ml of each solution per ten gallons of tank size. Dose prior to lights turning on.

Do I need a scale? Can’t I just measure the stuff with a spoon?
You need an accurate scale The scale needs to measure to the gram. Dry chemicals are very powerful and quantities need to be specific.

Isn't ml a liquid measurement? Oh wait, I get it. You mix the solution (grams + water) into a litre bottle and then dose 1ml from THAT. Got it.

This all will have to wait awhile since it looks like all the supplies (phosphate test kit, micro/macro nutrients, dispensers - luckily I have a gram scale) will cost me $50+.

I hate to be such a downer, but I think this is far more complex and far more expense than I want to get in to right now. I'm not ruling it out and I intend to read everything you sent me though. I really appreciate your assistance and hope you don't think I'm being dismissive!

 

[callisto9]

Well, I'll have to take a look the next time I'm at the LFS, just to see if they have one. Interesting...

 

[Coco1019]

I've ordered the dry ferts on her advice and they should be here soon. You know how new I am and I can let you know how it goes for me.

I don't think it will be as complicated as it may sound.

 

[callisto9]

I've ordered the dry ferts on her advice and they should be here soon. You know how new I am and I can let you know how it goes for me.

I don't think it will be as complicated as it may sound.

Awesome. I look forward to seeing how it goes for you. I'm not OPPOSED to all this, but right now, it's more than I want to get into. The more complex the hobby gets, the less I'm interested in it. That's my fault, not anyone else's.

 

[Rivercats]

That's understandable but I think you might benefit by using Seachems Potassium. Then spreading out your stems as we talked about. Then cut the leaves off the sword and be sure they have a good root tab or two around them. On my swords I actually use a root tab that is just phosphates since swords really like extra phosphates at their roots. And I do use reg root tabs also.

Dosing dry ferts isn't near as complicated as it is... if it was I wouldn't be doing it lol!

 

[CorallineAlgae]

Do you have an Eastern Newt?

Yep, that's the guy! An Eastern American newt.
(Sorry if I'm kinda off and on today. Watching Eureka 7)

Edit: The potassium is a good idea. I used Seachem comp, iron and potassium for a long time before adding Seachem nitrogen then finally just doing dry.

 

[callisto9]

That's understandable but I think you might benefit by using Seachems Potassium. Then spreading out your stems as we talked about. Then cut the leaves off the sword and be sure they have a good root tab or two around them. On my swords I actually use a root tab that is just phosphates since swords really like extra phosphates at their roots. And I do use reg root tabs also.

Dosing dry ferts isn't near as complicated as it is... if it was I wouldn't be doing it lol!

So, with the sword, you cut the leaf off? I had been pulling it off down at the base. Same thing, or no?

I'll look for a bottle next weekend. My problem is, I have a drawer full of bottles of stuff I used 10 drops of and now, there it sits (some bottles are from bad advice, some are because I came here and learned more; ie: found something better). I really wish you could try out stuff in like 1 oz. bottles, esp for those of us who have smaller tanks.

I DO have root tabs in, but a lot of my plants have been moved around. Is it OK to take those tabs and break them up into smaller pieces?

Thank you again. I've re-read your links and bookmarked them for later use.

 

[Rivercats]

Yeah pulling them off is fine, I just can't reach that far down in the 220g. You can move the root tabs if you can find them.. lol. Since you have inert substrate it's really important for the swords and any crypts if you have them to have root tabs. Swords are especially heavy root feeders.

Yeah, trial size bottles, wouldn't that be nice! I think at one point or another we've all bought stuff, used it once or twic, and then there it sat.

 

[callisto9]

Yeah pulling them off is fine, I just can't reach that far down in the 220g. You can move the root tabs if you can find them.. lol. Since you have inert substrate it's really important for the swords and any crypts if you have them to have root tabs. Swords are especially heavy root feeders.

Yeah, trial size bottles, wouldn't that be nice! I think at one point or another we've all bought stuff, used it once or twic, and then there it sat.

I have so much stuff I started with and then...learned. Flakes, water additives, medicine...

I just fed everyone some bloodworms. Note to self - that was too much food. Had to siphon most of it out.

Also, gross.

 

[_skyla_]

Ive been having the same problems with my plants but the melting seems to be only since i started the using the comprehensive. And now i know why my stem plants are loosing there lower leaves ive got to spread mine apart more aswell.