needs some creative inspiration 14gal nanoreef

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gteets

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Jun 14, 2015
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Location
conroe tx
looking for some advice on where to place my first frags. ive kept a sw tank for several years and decided to turn it into a reef tank. i purchased some frags this week from my lfs but im not sure where to permanently attach them. im open to all advice and suggestions how corals to add to make it more colorful.7ZjmAv2nOqYcIU9-GyiJhVJ7Rh-9e-b5eXNrVawq80tE_VYkbefqE3SWlBu1QNY2KmAgVC9trN5RlunqOsSbMEos49tLwCPL.jpg

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Always start corals lower in the tank to adjust them to your lighting. What lighting is over the tank? It doesn't look strong enough to be able to support photosynthetic corals with the exception of that sun coral since it is non-photosynthetic and will need fed.
 
If the tank looks like it doesn't have strong light shouldn't he consider placing his corals, perhaps in higher PAR ? If the previous tank was LEDs and his Halides the lower tank makes sense. Try to mimic previous flow/lighting accommodations each coral was previous in. And for SPS add more light and flow over time. Well really add more flow to any coral over time, and they will always appreciate a more full spectrum light. Pretty much any light with blues between 400-500nm will support coral growth though... Flow is your key factor.
 
the lighting in the tank is a coralife actinic 120v 24 watt and a 10000k 120v 24 watt with 2 small leds. the mushroom i have moved to the top of the tank, the zoas are currently situated on top of the pot in the photo i think i need to add another powerhead to be able to put it up on the rocks. the sun coral seems to be doing ok where its at but i might try and move it up on the lower area of the rocks and i still cant tell if the cabbage is doing any good. heres some updated photos:fish2:D5hvJwGqOlrA3uN-J_hWUM0iu9Y6NLCFTsBLujiCOE4sbqOmD0C92-OgyfEvx7MA5tzM5QDxOrTLMIsx99nQm7UfHLaEPp8s.jpg

g5s-RnAc6KCyYkyvFTrMPTYsoKGnYsex1hzxj6TQoTOgLoQ4vcEO0T4b3N7cpjBRCbKe5qA23pdXUtX9vqWBUZ8t3dz1v97m.jpg still not sure about the one next to the sun coral

OfsvfE1nUtCKmyPK_jvlg_sXgW4EmJwVWXIPvR42N70s7JsXMaNSxWDIQqqDUm34qT34d65FYlv-fHQVyLkso5fV1mevw7_q.jpg

dAbAYgKfbw6lHuhahmoZxYLyNgYHCb7mO4j3YT6eRlaHLC_9rTh05iSIWUeJ_HNJUPpgLUpBxxXnlPmhjpRxVPU_3TGZyhjX.jpg or a spot for these zoas.
 
It looks to be a brain coral.

That light isn't going to be strong enough to support photosynthetic creatures most likely. Put them all as high up as possible so they can get as much light as possible.
As for the sun coral, has it extended its tentacles at night? Have you fed it?
 
It looks to be a brain coral.

That light isn't going to be strong enough to support photosynthetic creatures most likely. Put them all as high up as possible so they can get as much light as possible.
As for the sun coral, has it extended its tentacles at night? Have you fed it?

Why do you feel those bulbs would not support photosynthesis. The Zooxanthellae algae within corals will absolutely have enough light to grow... The only thing required for photosynthesis is red spectrum to trigger it... Which would be found in the 10k bulb. Even the 20k Actinic bulb with 420nm blues will grow corals just fine. There's plenty of light in there..... I'm not even beginning to worry about PAR because the tank is shallow..There is A LOT of PUR with those bulbs... Even if the bulbs were T8 and not T5HO there would be plenty of required spectrum for corals and the symbiotic algae..

Appears to be a favia
 
The coralife units are junk. I had a 4 bulb T5HO unit from them and wasn't able to support the easiest of LPS corals under them. Looking at the FTS gave the original concern, but seeing the GSP opening up and reaching as much as it is is giving even further. The worst part is many of these coralife units require a specific bulb size that is only made by coralife, so you can utilize the high end T5HO bulbs!

Lighting aside, there will also need to be an increase of flow in the tank to help support corals. Most likely in the form of just a small powerhead, unless I simply am overlooking the existence of one and there is always room for error just like jell-o.
 
I'd agree with you as far as the fixture is concerned there's much better options with better reflectors and ballast. But judging by the wattage I think it's a 24" fixture not one of the oddballs like 30". Many other high output bulbs are available that would function within a 24" Coraline unit. I maintain a 29g Bio-Cube that currently uses a 24" Coralife fixture with ATI Blue Plus and ATI True Actinic. We sacrificed PAR for coloration with the actinic bulb. She is able to grow several species of birdsnest, and montipora.. Prior to replacing the bulbs she was using the stock bulbs the unit came with for 8 months. She was not seeing the growth or coloration she wanted, but absolutely sustained the corals.

You are completely right though, anything other than 24, 36, and 48 inches you're not going to find T5 support for quality bulbs.

But contrary to what many aquarist think, corals are able to THRIVE in very very limited lighting. There are of course many SPS that would not transition to new low light conditions, but I have seen beautiful Acropora tanks with next to no lighting. Flow is the biggest factor like you mentioned.
 
It looks to be a brain coral.

That light isn't going to be strong enough to support photosynthetic creatures most likely. Put them all as high up as possible so they can get as much light as possible.
As for the sun coral, has it extended its tentacles at night? Have you fed it?
it has extended its tentacles but not by much as i just got it a few days ago so i think it is still adjusting.
the corals get a blend of pureed mysis shrimp, reef snow, reef roids and a prefeeding of lab polyp booster.
i mounted the mushroom in the upper right hand corner of the tank. all of the mushrooms seem to fully extend and spread out so it seems happy there.
this is the lighting i have the bulbs are 12inches (the length of the tank) i replaced the tank fans a while back because i had a fan burn out from over heating.gElwW3Pjdo6RsjXg7OVzoWs3tOuBHWSjP0HGZQ8hU2ZBdstVv4onsT2UtdC4Gpe4liqn2_LMADKDk30kzoMUH2_7gJtMTAQs.jpg
 
Has your sun coral fully extended its polyps at night? They normally prefer shaded areas. You can encourage them to open more through the day by feeding at a similar time whenever you feed them.

Here's mine


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mine hasn't fully extended like that yet. just one or two of the polyps are starting to poke their tentacles out. ill try moving them into a shadier area to see if that will help. thanks for the tip!
 
Corals won't thrive with those lighting.


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Corals won't thrive with those lighting.


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With more focus on placement of corals (attention to [random] water motion in the tank, angle of received light, and appropriate acclimation to received lighting overtime), spot feeding, keeping elements stable (focus on trace elements, strontium, magnesium(Really important to keep stable around 1400 for calcification to even occur and proper marine pH above 7.8), potassium, amminos/fatty acids and other essentials than Ca/kH (Achieved through quality daily 2-part supplements, kalwk, calcium reactor, frequent water, or wet wet skimming (why not two skimmers to run one dry?) and salt replenishment)), providing aquaria with alkalinity pKa above 8.4 and actively providing correct nutrient levels while removing fish waste you will see corals will thrive under the lowest of lighting systems...

So what did I just suggest? Spot feed corals with pellets 3-7 times weekly, choose an option to restore vital elements for coral growth, provide high appropriate random water motion, and clean the fish waste from socks, bottom of sump, and substrate routinely....

Let me spotlight water flow... This is actually how corals receive the elements required for calcification.... This is probably the single most important aspect of reek keeping, next to actually supplying a balanced additive (Kalkwaser alone, while balanced, is not enough to support most hard corals). Besides bringing the elements to the corals, it brings food in many forms to the polyps.. It also keeps detritus from resting on the coral, or ending up between the rocks. Higher turnover in the display will keep waste suspended to more likely find it's way into the overflow. Maintaining a lower turnover in the sump allows the skimmer to collect more waste to skim out. The skimmer should also be after mechanical filtration so you're not depending completely on the skimmer to remove stuff.. yes this actually means we have to have multiple sponges on hand, or clean them more often... The coral needs to grow onto the rock its touching... Keeping higher turnover keeps the surface cleaner for coral growth and makes certain algaes and cyano harder to grow. With herbivores and an appropriate clean up crew algae does not tend to be a problem in high flow tanks, even with high nutrient conditions. In a tank with less light there'd be far less algae growth as well.... The symbiotic algae within corals do not need intense light.. Actually far from it..

Water flow in display is actually what is responsible for biological filtration. It is important to get the water to pass through the pores of the rock to actually nitrify the water...

Am I saying lighting is not important to focus on? Absolutely not. But I am suggesting more focus should be given to the actual presented spectrum of light rather than visual intensity... There is absolutely no reason what so ever two 24" T5 High Output bulbs could not produce a thriving, sustainable reef with excellent growth and coloration.. (Especially in a 14g Nano like the OP) The absolutely best thing for corals is what we all know as "full spectrum" But what is this. It has to provide the spikes for coral growth in the right nm we want... Red is actually extremely important to trigger the start of photosynthesis.... Does this mean we want a 3K red bulb above the tank?? Aboslutely not. But a bulb with a lot white will have many hues of red and allow for a greater true red spike... With blues across the whole spectrum between 400-500nm corals can grow. It may be true you need to aquascape your tank to suit your lighting so you can place corals more specifically... But isn't this something everyone should be doing regardless of 'quality' of light?

Can this fixture allow for the aquarist to place corals at any part of his tank? No, but can any fixture? No because we know corals such as a bubble would die in intense light real quick... Corals have specific light requirements and always need to be placed and bought with that in mind..If you do not have space for an Acro on your top aquascape anymore you either need to re-scape or buy a bigger aquarium haha... It doesn't mean you attempt to grow a coral in less par unless you're fragging a colony and doing acclimation experiments with single frags of a colony so you can achieve your desired results...

Will this fixture allow for a thriving reef? Yes 100%
 
Top marks for that post.


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With more focus on placement of corals (attention to [random] water motion in the tank, angle of received light, and appropriate acclimation to received lighting overtime), spot feeding, keeping elements stable (focus on trace elements, strontium, magnesium(Really important to keep stable around 1400 for calcification to even occur and proper marine pH above 7.8), potassium, amminos/fatty acids and other essentials than Ca/kH (Achieved through quality daily 2-part supplements, kalwk, calcium reactor, frequent water, or wet wet skimming (why not two skimmers to run one dry?) and salt replenishment)), providing aquaria with alkalinity pKa above 8.4 and actively providing correct nutrient levels while removing fish waste you will see corals will thrive under the lowest of lighting systems...

So what did I just suggest? Spot feed corals with pellets 3-7 times weekly, choose an option to restore vital elements for coral growth, provide high appropriate random water motion, and clean the fish waste from socks, bottom of sump, and substrate routinely....

Let me spotlight water flow... This is actually how corals receive the elements required for calcification.... This is probably the single most important aspect of reek keeping, next to actually supplying a balanced additive (Kalkwaser alone, while balanced, is not enough to support most hard corals). Besides bringing the elements to the corals, it brings food in many forms to the polyps.. It also keeps detritus from resting on the coral, or ending up between the rocks. Higher turnover in the display will keep waste suspended to more likely find it's way into the overflow. Maintaining a lower turnover in the sump allows the skimmer to collect more waste to skim out. The skimmer should also be after mechanical filtration so you're not depending completely on the skimmer to remove stuff.. yes this actually means we have to have multiple sponges on hand, or clean them more often... The coral needs to grow onto the rock its touching... Keeping higher turnover keeps the surface cleaner for coral growth and makes certain algaes and cyano harder to grow. With herbivores and an appropriate clean up crew algae does not tend to be a problem in high flow tanks, even with high nutrient conditions. In a tank with less light there'd be far less algae growth as well.... The symbiotic algae within corals do not need intense light.. Actually far from it..

Water flow in display is actually what is responsible for biological filtration. It is important to get the water to pass through the pores of the rock to actually nitrify the water...

Am I saying lighting is not important to focus on? Absolutely not. But I am suggesting more focus should be given to the actual presented spectrum of light rather than visual intensity... There is absolutely no reason what so ever two 24" T5 High Output bulbs could not produce a thriving, sustainable reef with excellent growth and coloration.. (Especially in a 14g Nano like the OP) The absolutely best thing for corals is what we all know as "full spectrum" But what is this. It has to provide the spikes for coral growth in the right nm we want... Red is actually extremely important to trigger the start of photosynthesis.... Does this mean we want a 3K red bulb above the tank?? Aboslutely not. But a bulb with a lot white will have many hues of red and allow for a greater true red spike... With blues across the whole spectrum between 400-500nm corals can grow. It may be true you need to aquascape your tank to suit your lighting so you can place corals more specifically... But isn't this something everyone should be doing regardless of 'quality' of light?

Can this fixture allow for the aquarist to place corals at any part of his tank? No, but can any fixture? No because we know corals such as a bubble would die in intense light real quick... Corals have specific light requirements and always need to be placed and bought with that in mind..If you do not have space for an Acro on your top aquascape anymore you either need to re-scape or buy a bigger aquarium haha... It doesn't mean you attempt to grow a coral in less par unless you're fragging a colony and doing acclimation experiments with single frags of a colony so you can achieve your desired results...

Will this fixture allow for a thriving reef? Yes 100%
thanks. i think the lighting is ok for now as some of the corals are finally opening up as im moving them around the tank to find that "sweet spot". the coral that everyone thought was brain coral i think is actually a flower pot coral just all shrunk up. im going to move him up towards the top of the tank for more lighting per my lfs suggestion. im in the market for a power head to get the water flow moving more dont think what i have is enough with just the main powerhead/filter maxijet600. i need something to get some real movement. the star polyps are opening up sitting in the direct flow of the jet so im going to start with an additional powerhead and go from there.currently im feeding my corals about 5 days a week. i would like to figure out a lighting source replacement to really get the corals neon colors. does anyone have any good suggestions for a lighting replacement that's relatively affordable? that would grow what i have in there ie. mushrooms, flower pots, zoas, star polyp, cabbage, and sun corals?:fish1:
 
i think Kessil A150 20K is a beauiful and affordable. If you wanted more growth, but less of that coloration the 15k exists. So do 10k and 6.5k but that is not what you want to spend money on as a single light...

Jebao circulation pumps are in the spirit of affordable.
 
You could try the a160. A little more money but fully controllable. That's what I have on my 14 gallon biocube.






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The controllability is really nice from the A160. Save some cash instead of the 360WE you get the 160 and Spectral Controller for about the same price and you can ramp the lights throughout the day. Totally worth the extra money
 
The controllability is really nice from the A160. Save some cash instead of the 360WE you get the 160 and Spectral Controller for about the same price and you can ramp the lights throughout the day. Totally worth the extra money


Exactly, the stock bulbs are okay, but now I can literally have whatever I want in my tank because I'm not limited my lighting! Totally worth the investment


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