New Aquarium Set Up

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During the cycling process, check ammonia everyday for about a week. Then start checking Ammonia and Nitrites. When the Ammonia starts to decline and the Nitrites rise, then you can just test for Nitrites. Then after about a week start testing for Ntirates. I'd still test once a week all levels. Right now I only test for Nitrates. The only time I test for Ammonia or Nitrites is when we add new fish and I'll test for a few days. But once it's cycled you don't need to test for everything as often.
 
Ok i just tested the water again and the amonia is between .50 and 1.0. Is this ok? My fish are still standing on their heads, flashing, and rubbing on stuff in the tank?
 
Your ammonia should be 0. Until it is 0, your cycle is not complete.

I skipped from page 2 to this page because it was a lot of people saying the same stuff over and over. But anyways, you need to have test kits of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

The ammonia and nitrite should always be 0. If it's not, something is wrong. And nitrate should be below 20.

You need to keep doing partial water changes. They flash/rub/etc because the ammonia is burning them!
 
I have seen cycling take anywhere from 2 weeks up to 4 months or so!

Fish food not eaten = ammonia
Fish food eaten and then turned into waste = ammonia

Over time the "cycle" buildings up converting the ammonia to less toxic bacteria. Even when your cycle is complete, you should still do partial water changes every 1-2 weeks to keep everything under control.

It's not to say that your water change last night did nothing, however your fish will continue to produce waste, so the ammonia WILL continue to build until the correct bacteria is produced.

Just be patient, and absolutely keep up the partial water changes (30-50%). In time it will come!

And by the way, even when you get the ammonia to 0, you still have to worry about nitrite, which is why you should really go out and purchase more test kits.

Good luck,
-brent
 
we have a test kit that test ph, nitrite, nitrate, hardness, and alkalinity,and the amonia test kit. So how often should i do these water changes, until my tank has cycled?
 
Everyone might recommend something different, but with your fish already showing signs of something being wrong, I would do it at least 5 times a week until your tank is cycled.

Once it is cycled, once every 1-2 weeks is sufficient. :)

Are you using the kind you dip into the water on a strip? While they aren't very accurate, it is better than nothing! You don't need to be testing the water every day either, as at this point there isn't much you can do. Just test every few days or so to test the progress.

Definetly cut back on feeding though (don't worry, your fish won't starve), and when you do feed make sure you are only giving what they can eat in a short amount of time.

-brent
 
So should i replace the water with like 10 15 % every day until it has cycled? and how will i know when it has cycled?
 
You will know it's cycled when
Ammonia = 0ppm
Nitrite = 0ppm
Nitrates = anywhere from 0-40 ppm, you should never really let it go about 20-25, 30ppm is pushing it.
 
yeah you did make a mistake you are suppose to cycle the tank for at least a day if not longer
This will do nothing except stabilize the temperature. The cycle will not start without a source of ammonia- either pure ammonia in a fishless cycle, or ammonia from fish waste.

Clselby- yes, you should do 10-20% water changes until the tank has cycled, and more in an emergency. Do not vacuum the gravel or clean the filter during this time. Keep an eye on ammonia and nitrite and like Fishyfanatic said, you will need to change enough water to keep the ammonia under 2. I don't know that you will have to do it every day, but you will have to do this multiple times a week. You are in the first part of the cycle, and are experiencing an ammonia spike. Eventually, you will notice that the ammonia level will drop and the nitrite will rise. You will still need to do many water changes to keep the nitrite under control. This will probably last a couple of weeks. Finally, you will notice that ammonia and nitrite have dropped to 0, and nitrates will be around 20 ppm. At this point, your tank will be cycled, and a 25% water change once a week will be sufficient.
 
ok earlier about 2 oclock and the ammonia .75 but our fish are still flashing, standing on heads, should we do a 10 - 20% water change now?
 
Alright, we just keep repeating the same thing over and over.

You need to realize that your tank needs to fully cycle, and the water changes are not a quick fix! Changing the water 1 time will not fix your problem!!

Do water changes 4-5 times a week, check your levels on occassion, and eventually it will be cycled! As I said I have seen this take anywhere from 2 weeks up to many months!!

I'm not trying to be rude, but stop asking if you should do a water change, stop asking if it will help, read the 6 pages of advice and just do it! If you have ammonia in your tank (no matter how minute), if you have nitrite in your tank (no matter how minute) it IS harming your fish, and they WILL keep scratching/flashing/etc because it is burning them!!

Keep up the water changes, and eventually it will even out!!!

PS- I really am not trying to be rude, and I realize at one point we are all new to this, but please just read the advice and follow it!!!
 
It ok im sorry for repeating so much. Thanks alot. I did another water change today hopefully it will be alright. But my water is so freakin clear, and my neighbors tank is so cloude but they have guppies so would that make a difference
 
Fish type doesn't really matter except for hardiness. Danois are tough and survive cycling well, neons don't. The clarity has nothing to do with it. Test your levels change as necessary.
 
ok i have 1 gourami and 2 tiger barbs, what other fish and how many would go great with thoes?
 
Don't add any more fish until the tank has cycled. It will only make the situation worse right now.
 
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