New test kits: results

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Since they use the AP kit then they probably also test for hardness. At least the places around here do. They also test for Phosphates. Get both the GH and KH tested. Big Al's sells the GH & KH Test Kit for $9. But if your lfs tests for hardness, then I wouldn't worry about buying a kit. It's somethig that gets tested so rarely that unless you have hardness issues, I wouldn't worry about buying it.
 
I might just have hardness issues! I think the water here is very soft. If i understand correctly that means that the water has very little abililty to resist PH swings? Correct? So if this is the case.... I think i read somewhere that you can add baking soda to boost the buffering ability of the water. Correct?
 
You could use baking soda, but it's not as easy to control as using something like crushed coral. A little bit of a "oops" in the tank with the baking soda can end up killing all your fish. You could try using a little crushed coral in the tank and after a few weeks re-test the hardness and see what happens. It will also increase your pH, but not by alot unless you use alot. I used about 3 cups in a 150 gal tank and it increased the pH up to 7.8. BUT cc becomes "inactive" above 7.8. And yes, soft water will cause pH fluctuations. Anything less than 3 d needs to be addressed.
 
Well, first of all, where can i get crushed coral? Also, if the CC will eventually raise the PH (slowly of course) To 7.8 then that is quite a big change considering that my current PH is 6.4 (or something like that) but i dont know that the water has any probs with hardness yet. 3 gh or Kh???
 
You can get crushed coral from your lfs. It's commonly used as a susbrate for African Cichlids or saltwater fish. The cc will not ultimately raise it to 7.8 unless you use enough to do that. Cc becomes inactive at a level of 7.8 but that doesn't mean that it will bring your water up to that level. You could use just enough cc to bring up your hardness to an acceptable level and it may only inrease the pH to 7.2. It's kind of like using Peat moss. If you use a little bit, it might bring your pH down to about 6.5 but if you stick the whole bag in the filter, well, it won't be measurable.

But that's not something that you should worry over at this point in time. Just wait until you get the hardness levels tested.
 
Another question about the nitrite test.... If i hold it up to the tank it looks very like0.5 but if i look at the in less light it looks like 2.0 and if i read it in the kitchen where there is lots of light (but not as much as the tank) it looks in between. What reading should i use?
 
Florescent lighting has been known to throw you off too. I usually do it during the daytime where I can go by the door in the outside light.
 
I've always used a halogen desk light, never really had a problem. but to give you a feel for flourescent effect.

I had what looked like "cloudy" grey water.. took some out in a 2l bottle (clear coke bottle) to get someone to look at it, got outside, came back in and turned the tank light off, it was green water. The powerglo lights I had on the tank made it look very grey, not even a hint of green to it. It also looked green under metal halide lighting (at a store), halogen lighting and incandescent, so any of those (or daylight) shouldn't alter the appearance that much.

Oh, I also hate the AP nitrate test, anything above 20 is almost impossible to tell the difference in colour. (red, red or red)
 
Oh, I also hate the AP nitrate test, anything above 20 is almost impossible to tell the difference in colour. (red, red or red)

Yeah, but if it's over 20 than it's really time for a pwc so it doesn't really matter the reading.
 
When ammonia reaches 0, remember to only add about 1ppm or just a little under, and keep watching the nitrites. When you see 0, let the ammonia drop to 0 and you are cycled. I would say just a couple more days. Once it does reach 0, just add ammonia 1 more day to be certain, should go down to 0 in 24 hours or less. You are very close. Good job.
 
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