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Ktbear

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jun 16, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Melbourne Australia
Hi Everyone
I have had a freshwater tank (70litre Blue planet) for about 3 years. Just when I think everything is going well my fish start to die again. I have goldfish, nothing exotic. Over the last few months I have had to check my pH every day as it plummets. It sits around 6. If I just test the water straight from the tap the pH is perfect. It only plummets once it is in the tank. Also my KH is sitting at 1 at the moment and I don't know how to raise it.
I have a couple of water grass plants but that is all.
Could somone please give me some advice so I can stabilise my tank and stop the loss of my fish. Thankyou all very much :)
Ktbear
 
Welcome to AA! How many gold fish and what types are they? How often and how much water do you change? Do you own a test kit? What are the results for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate?
 
Hi! These questions will help us try to figure out what is going on with your tank. :)

How many fish are in there exactly? Do you know what kind of goldfish they are? How big are they? What temperature do you keep the tank at? What sort of filtration do you have? How often do you do partial water changes and how much water do you change? What are your exact parameters for Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? Do you use a liquid test kit?
 
Hi
I have 4 gold fish 3 commets and 1 fantail. They are all about 5cm long roughly. I did have a black moar, but they don't seem to last. The temp of the tank is normally around 23-25 degrees. The tank has a built in filter. It has 2 bags of charcoal and filter wool around each of these. At one end I have plastic balls (not sure what they are called) and at the other end I have Biomax rings. I do approximately 20% water change every 7 to 10 days. I test for pH, KH and GH. They are liquid tests where I take 5mls of the tank water out for each one. I am not sure of my parameters for Ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. At evey water change I add Ammo lock, Stress Zyme+ and Stress Coat+
Thnaks for your help I hope this helps get me some answers.
 
If you can, take a sample of your water to a store that uses liquid tests and get it tested. I suspect your tank is suffering from old tank syndrome. A 20% water change every 7-10 days won't be cutting it. Unfortunately your tank is way over stocked and under filtered. The nitrate and TDS are probably through the roof. This would explain why you can't keep black moors alive. They are more sensitive to nitrate than the other fancies and pond goldfish.
 
So once I have the water tested is it an easy problem to fix? How many goldfish is suitable for that size tank? I asked this question when I got the tank and was told 4-5 fish would be ok. How often should I be changing the water? Again I have only been doing what I was advised by the aquarium where I purchased the tank. Is there a test kit I can get for nitrate and nitrites? Looking forwrad to answers. Thanks again
 
2 goldfish would be the max for a tank that size normally you would want at least 30 gallons minimum and have ten gallons per goldfish just as a general guidline
 
So once I have the water tested is it an easy problem to fix? How many goldfish is suitable for that size tank? I asked this question when I got the tank and was told 4-5 fish would be ok. How often should I be changing the water? Again I have only been doing what I was advised by the aquarium where I purchased the tank. Is there a test kit I can get for nitrate and nitrites? Looking forwrad to answers. Thanks again

It is a simple fix. Increasing the frequency and % of water changes will keep the TDS and nitrates lower. It should rectify the pH crash problem. If it continues to crash then some crushed coral in the filter with the media will help also.

The general rule is 20g for the first fancy goldfish and 10g for each after. For pond fish (not including koi) its 50g each. Of course these amounts vary. Very large goldfish need more water still.

You need to change enough water each week to keep nitrate lower than 20ppm. This may require multiple changes per week. The amount of filtration that is usually recommended for a properly stocked tank is 10x the size of the tank. Eg: 30g tank will need 300g per hour turn over of water.

The API master test kit is what is usually recommended. It is cheapest to buy online. It had a pH (high and low range), ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test.

With the pH dropping so low some of the bacteria could have died or stopped consuming ammonia. It would be a good idea to keep a close eye on parameters and do extra water changes until the pH stabilizes.

I understand you are doing what you have been told from the LFS but a lot of the time they are uneducated or following old fish keeping practices.
 
Thanks everyone. I have only been a member for a bout 5 hours and have already learnt such a lot. Will do a few more water changes and get my water tested. Will also get hold of that kit that was talked about. By the way can you buy crush coral if I do need it?
Thanks again I have alot more learning to do. Cheers
 
Thanks everyone. I have only been a member for a bout 5 hours and have already learnt such a lot. Will do a few more water changes and get my water tested. Will also get hold of that kit that was talked about. By the way can you buy crush coral if I do need it?
Thanks again I have alot more learning to do. Cheers

Glad to help. :) Crushed coral should be available at your LFS. A little goes a long way so you won't need a whole bag.
Here is the beginners guide. It will explain just about everything :)
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/artic...-to-Starting-a-Freshwater-Aquarium/Page1.html
 
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