N3PTUN3
Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Hi there
Can anyone confirm whether this information is accurate?
According to my Nutrafin test kit, the toxicity of ammonia is largely dependent on the pH of the water. Apparently if the water has a relativley low pH, any ammonia will be present n the form of ionic ammonium, which is much less harmful to aquatic life, than the toxic gas, ammonia.
The water in my tank is at pH7 (straight from the tap it is 5.5, although i don't know why there is such a difference). Anyway, according to the test kit, if the ammonia reads >1.2mg/l, I should test the pH. The test pack includes a chart which then allows you to determine what action to take by looking at the pH results in combination with the test results, rather than looking at ammonia alone. It provides a red/amber/green system giving different actions depending on the severity of the problem.
For me (with pH 7) I would not enter the red (danger) zone even if the ammonia levels reached 7.3 mg/l. With 7.3mg/l being the highest detectable level on the colour chart (dark orange in colour), this suggests it is unlikely i would ever have an ammonia problem.
While i intend to continue to do water changes, I'd appreciate your views on this. For me, perhaps (if this is true), I don't need to worry so much about my fish getting poisoned.
I also wonder how this affects the whole cycling process. Does anyone know, for example, whether the bacteria that are responsible for the breakdown of ammonia also breakdown ionic ammonium? If not, how do you ever get the cycle going?
thanks in advance
Can anyone confirm whether this information is accurate?
According to my Nutrafin test kit, the toxicity of ammonia is largely dependent on the pH of the water. Apparently if the water has a relativley low pH, any ammonia will be present n the form of ionic ammonium, which is much less harmful to aquatic life, than the toxic gas, ammonia.
The water in my tank is at pH7 (straight from the tap it is 5.5, although i don't know why there is such a difference). Anyway, according to the test kit, if the ammonia reads >1.2mg/l, I should test the pH. The test pack includes a chart which then allows you to determine what action to take by looking at the pH results in combination with the test results, rather than looking at ammonia alone. It provides a red/amber/green system giving different actions depending on the severity of the problem.
For me (with pH 7) I would not enter the red (danger) zone even if the ammonia levels reached 7.3 mg/l. With 7.3mg/l being the highest detectable level on the colour chart (dark orange in colour), this suggests it is unlikely i would ever have an ammonia problem.
While i intend to continue to do water changes, I'd appreciate your views on this. For me, perhaps (if this is true), I don't need to worry so much about my fish getting poisoned.
I also wonder how this affects the whole cycling process. Does anyone know, for example, whether the bacteria that are responsible for the breakdown of ammonia also breakdown ionic ammonium? If not, how do you ever get the cycle going?
thanks in advance