Sump Setup Advice

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I had the same problem I had to drop my tank in from the top. My stand is open at the top so i had to remove all my rocks, corals and water just to drop the sump in. It's worth it!
 
what size tank is this? do you have a single door in front or two with a divider in the center?
btw, you don't want the water level in the return area too low. you can limit the amount of water that fills the sump when the return pump is unplugged by drilling a siphon break just under the water line on the return nozzle.
 
About time mr x! I had 2 sets of doors with a 10" support decider. I was thinking about cutting the divider. I only need about 2".
 
So here's the center brace. In going to cut 3" off both sides and install wider doors and a support column behind center divider.

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My friend had a 125 gallon tank which was 6' long. that partition wasn't even load bearing on his store bought stand. Not saying this is the case with yours, but you can always run a 6 foot 2x4 on end under the front of the tank for extra strength while you remove the brace. Put 2x4's on each end...like a header would be, when removing a load bearing wall.
 
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Penn plax 700 gph cannister filter
Via aqua sk- 200 in sump Venturi protein skimmer
Aqua top submersible pump
This is for a3 chamber sump 10 gallon, my tank is a 55 gal FOWLR. Is this a good design, this is my first marine tank.
 
I'm not familiar with the protein skimmer. I would probably want a better brand without trying it out. (Octopus, Vertex, even Bubble Magus)
I never heard of the return pump either. Same thing- danner mag drive or Quiet One...Eheim...etc.
I would skip the canister filter. This will need regular maintenance (like weekly) if you want to keep your nitrate levels down. I prefer a filter sock in the intake section.
 
I'm doing live rock and chaeto in my center chanber. Mr x, would you fire the skimmer up right away or run the sump for a couple weeks?
 
I added 2x4 supports brackets last night. I just have to open opening about 2" more. The I need to make some new cabinet doors.
 
Sure. Why not? It's not like you are needing the canister media for surface area for bacteria...you have plenty of rock, correct? I am subscribed to so many threads I forget specifics from time to time. The HOB is for what? A refugium?
 
So I don't need the cannister filters? What pumps the water to my sump, or is it gravity? Sorry for being so green but I am when it comes to marine .
 
So I don't need the cannister filters? What pumps the water to my sump, or is it gravity? Sorry for being so green but I am when it comes to marine .

Canisters are not needed and IMO shouldn't be used. Water comes down by gravity, all you do is pump it up.

It works like this
You have water in the tank and in the sump. You pump water up to the tank that the tank can't hold. So with an overflow either hob or a built in one ( works like a drain) makes the water.go back down. You'll have to watch to know how much gph the overflow can handle so you don't push to much up to the tank.

What goes up must come down
 
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Exactly. If you have a drilled tank, it's gravity that brings the water back to the sump. If you have a HOB filter, it's a siphon that does the work.
 
I just wasn't sure if it was ok to go col turkey on other 2 filters. I've heard mixed feelings, but I believe you're very experienced. I have a 135g fowlr tank and there's about 175lbs o live rock in it. I'll be using about 25lbs to start with in my sump. I'll use the rings from hob for a few weeks. Then I'll toss them. I plan on having a good amount of chaeto resting ontop of my rock (middle section) in the sump. Do you think I should separate the rock an chaeto using a filter pad or egg crate.... Or anything at all... Thx!
 
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