Water Changes and Boesemani Rainbow Question

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abw0004

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Joined
Jan 18, 2014
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Location
Alpharetta, Georgia
Hello all,
I am brand new to this forum and having an aquarium in general. My family has had fish before but this is my first time having personal fish.

As a graduation/Christmas present I was given a Fluval Accent 25 gallon tank. I thought this would be a good starter tank to get to know the ropes before I do bigger tanks in my future. It came with 150 watt pre-set heater, LED light system, uses bio beads and filter cartridges, etc. Here is a link to look at it: Accent | Lifestyle Home Aquariums | Fluval.

I have since set up the tank and put in gravel, put in 9 live plants (excluding two moss balls), driftwood and a fake tree root thing that is hallow inside for hiding, ect. The tank has been cycling for a little over two weeks now. The water has discolored due to the driftwood but it is not terrible. I first put in 6 Neon Tetras for a couple days as test fish and one died I think due to it being sick. I also did a 50% water change to help with the discolored water and boiled the driftwood. Today the other 5 are perfectly fine.

I couple days later I added a Clown Pleco, two guppies, and two Boesemani Rainbows. I came to regret that as three days later the rainbows died one day apart. Every other day for about two weeks I have taken water samples in to make sure nothing was wrong with the water to try to curb disaster in the tank. The readings have been fine, even the days they died, with the ammonia has been present but "safe." The temperature of the water has always been fine. The store employees were confused on why they died because the readings were normal and thought maybe because the rainbows were in their tank for six months, changing them to a new tank may have been too much.

Three days ago, I went and bought 4 Boesemani Rainbows, two guppies, and two snails. I know the rainbows need at least 30 gallons I know. I just love the rainbows so much. I have been researching a lot about everything too so I can learn about everything. The tank is a long tank so they have room to swim. All of the fish are fine and swimming except for one rainbow that won't eat currently. Why won't he eat? He is also staying in one place for a good period of time. I have also been feeding them Omega One flakes.

My other question is, the Fluval tank says you only need to do 30% water changes every month along with the filter cartridges due to the great filtration system. That is what they brag about so much. With as many fish that I do have, do I need to do it every week like I see posted everywhere or should I follow what Fluval is telling me? I want to be a good parent to these fish. Thank you!

Update: I had the water tested again today and the ammonia was slightly higher but still okay so I bought "Microbe-Lift" (Special Blend?) and began adding that today. That was suggested for me to do.
 
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Are you using a water conditioner product? I'm frankly surprised that your ammonia isn't off the chart given the size and population of the tank.
 
Yes I am using the conditioner. Fluval makes it. The plants may be helping too but you would know better than me if that helps. As of today I am using the Microbe-Lift to reduce the ammonia I have now and to help the process run smoothly. Have you heard of this or have experience with it? I have been keeping a close eye on everything. It is pretty safe to say I am paranoid.
 
I am also baffled about why your ammonia isn't high too. Your stock is fairly high. Boesmani rainbows need at very very least 55 gallons and preferably more because they're so active, I suggest rehoming them. Once they're out of the way your stock should be back down to a good level.
 
What ever you do, don't change the filter media, if you have carbon which is an option, that needs to be changed but the biological media (sponge, floss) never change, just rinse it in aquarium water. This is where your beneficial bacteria resides that took so long to build up during your cycling.
 
The boesmanis really need a tank that's 4ft long.

Could you define what you mean when the ammonia is "present but safe"?

Next, the fluval suggestions to water changes and filter replacement are complete garbage for almost any tank. The ONLY time you want to change your filter is when it is literally disintegrating / falling apart and even then there is a specific process to follow to change it out. After that you will need to do a water change any time the ammonia / nitrite level rises above .25ppm and when the nitrates hit 40ppm. This will mean approximately weekly 50% water changes based on tank parameters.
 
Ah yes forgot to say, welcome to the forum!!!
You'll learn and get more experience more here than any other place!
 
First of all, thank you to everyone for your responses. It means a lot that you would take the time to help me. Every other day I have been taking water samples in to the pet store to get tested for ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, etc. Every time it is tested, there is ammonia present, but according to the comparison bottle, the light green means it is safe. As a preemptive strike, the employees recommended I use the Microbe-Lift Special blend that is supposed to be a biological cycle booster that reduces nitrates and ammonia. The fish seem happy, to me at least.

Regarding the rainbows, the tank is 3 feet long and all the other fish are smaller than them on purpose so they won't be intimidated. If I see they aren't doing well I will take them back because I would rather seem them doing great without me than me killing them. I drilled the employees about me having them and they said it was okay unless they are in bad shape. I have a couple pictures up if you need a reference. I am trying to get more up.
 
To keep everyone in the loop I returned the rainbows today. I also bought a master test kit as well. I have currently 4 guppies, 5 neon tetras, clown pleco, and two snails. Fingers crossed!!
 
First of all, thank you to everyone for your responses. It means a lot that you would take the time to help me. Every other day I have been taking water samples in to the pet store to get tested for ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, etc. Every time it is tested, there is ammonia present, but according to the comparison bottle, the light green means it is safe. As a preemptive strike, the employees recommended I use the Microbe-Lift Special blend that is supposed to be a biological cycle booster that reduces nitrates and ammonia. The fish seem happy, to me at least.

Regarding the rainbows, the tank is 3 feet long and all the other fish are smaller than them on purpose so they won't be intimidated. If I see they aren't doing well I will take them back because I would rather seem them doing great without me than me killing them. I drilled the employees about me having them and they said it was okay unless they are in bad shape. I have a couple pictures up if you need a reference. I am trying to get more up.


Just to be clear on a point, their is no safe level of ammonia. Ammonia needs to be at 0. Anything more affects fish. They may not die right away but once a fish is exposed to ammonia it will have a shortened life span.
 
Just to be clear on a point, their is no safe level of ammonia. Ammonia needs to be at 0. Anything more affects fish. They may not die right away but once a fish is exposed to ammonia it will have a shortened life span.

There's always a trace amount of ammonia in an aquarium and I would be surprised if ammonia levels didn't spike 5 or 6 hours after feeding. Ammonia toxicity is linked along with temperature and pH. It takes a certain concentration to have an effect on fish.

Link explaining ammonia toxicity:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/your-guide-to-ammonia-toxicity-159994.html
 
Guess I've been lucky. Have never had an ammonia reading and was always told it needs to be at 0. I'm heavily planted in both tanks I have though. My thinking is still though that you're doing something wrong if you have an ammonia reading in an established tank. (Over feeding, dead fish, rotting plants) very good article though. We learn something new everyday in this hobby.
 
Catfish that would mean that every aquarium fish would be already inflicted with a shortened lifespan. What conditions do you think these fish have experienced on their journey from fish farm to LFS to you?

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