Water Changes/Cycle Question

[Rpvance]

Is it necessary to let the tap water sit in the bucket for a certain length of time before I transfer it to the tank?

I use a digital thermometer to get the temp from the faucet within a degree of the tank, fill up the bucket, add Seachem Prime, then 2 minutes later pour into tank.

Also, it has been one month since I started my fish in cycle. I never go more than 2 days without AT LEAST a 25% pwc. Still getting readings around .25 ammonia. Is this normal? I have yet to see any Nitrite. Does this mean I am still a month away from cycle completion? Will I definitely see nitrite before this is over?

Thank you!

 

[Aquarium_Lover04]

You really don't have to let the tap water sit. I use seachem prime and I add it directly to the tank and use a python to add the water. You should agitate the water a little to ensure the prime is distributed evenly. You shouldn't be doing many water changes during your cycle unless the levels are extremely high. By taking out the ammonia, you are pretty much stopping and re-starting the cycle.
Just let the tank run and if you see really high levels, do a small water change. You have to wait until you see a drop in nitrites and a rise in nitrates. Then you can start your weekly water changes.

 

[jlk]

I am glad you are temperature matching the water & conditioning it! Fish-in cycling takes patience & can last anywhere from 4-8wks (or longer). Keep up the good work with water changes any time your levels of ammonia and/or nitrite reach .25ppm (or higher). This will keep your fish healthy & limit their exposure to toxins as your tank cycles. Your present method of matching the temp, conditioning, waiting 2 mins, & adding is fine although you may want to consider investing in a water changer (python, aqueon, etc) to make your life a bit easier. Your nitrites will show up, so dont worry! Keep up the good work with your water changes & daily testing! If you have any questions, please dont hesitate to ask!

 

[HeatherW]

i think it took me almost 2 months before I started seeing nitrites and then BAM! they were high. keep testing and keep changing your water as needed. it will all come in time. good luck!

 

[Rpvance]

Thanks for the info, advice, and encouragement! My only issue is I don't have a nitrite test kit - I already bought API
Ph and ammonia tests so don't want to purchase the master kit...can't seem to find a nitrite kit sold separately at any pet stores around. Think I can get by without one? Once ammonia is zero I can assume nitrites are high?

 

[jlk]

Amazon sells the API nitrite test for @$8-9. You will also need a nitrate test as well (around the same price). Or you could purchase the entire kit for a few bucks more. Both tests (nitrite/nitrate) will be necessary to maintain a healthy tank & especially during cycling.

 

[BBradbury]

Water Changes

Is it necessary to let the tap water sit in the bucket for a certain length of time before I transfer it to the tank?

I use a digital thermometer to get the temp from the faucet within a degree of the tank, fill up the bucket, add Seachem Prime, then 2 minutes later pour into tank.

Also, it has been one month since I started my fish in cycle. I never go more than 2 days without AT LEAST a 25% pwc. Still getting readings around .25 ammonia. Is this normal? I have yet to see any Nitrite. Does this mean I am still a month away from cycle completion? Will I definitely see nitrite before this is over?

Thank you!

Hello R...

I use the 5 gallon buckets for my water changes and do let the treated tap water sit for 15 to 20 minutes uncovered before it goes into the tank. The water going through the tap can produce some carbon dioxide bubbles and if your fish ingests one, it could be a dangerous thing.

I use the spray nozzle as the bucket fills to stir up the surface of the water, this helps release the CO2.

Tank cycling takes about 6 weeks. Cycling with fish isn't hard on the fish, if you check the water daily. If you have even a trace of ammonia or nitrites, you need to change out a quarter of the tank water. This will get the water back into the "safe zone". Even a trace of these pollutants is extremely hard on the fishes sensative gill tissues.

B