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The blood worms will cause bloat. I personally would only feed blood worms once a week IF at all. I don't feed at all. They're too high in protein. I use regular fish food because it has everything they need (I have read to avoid ones with a % of ash) and once or twice a week i will treat them with some frozen brine shrimp. It is also something to not feed often along with the bloodworms. Also, with the couple fish you have I would only feed what they can eat in about 30 seconds. That should be plenty of time for them all to get some.


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Ditto +1

I don't feed any blood worms I may do one cube of shrimp once a month but that's it


125gal Waiting for C/A cichlids , 55gal African Cichlids , 75gal "wet pet "oscar , 10gal soon to be planted shrimp/snail/endler breeder tank , 56gal soon to be a planted angel tank or Dwarf Puffer tank
 
Okay. I will follow that. Thanks


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Okay. I will follow that. Thanks


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Keep us posted on them ,


125gal Waiting for C/A cichlids , 55gal African Cichlids , 75gal "wet pet "oscar , 10gal soon to be planted shrimp/snail/endler breeder tank , 56gal soon to be a planted angel tank or Dwarf Puffer tank
 
So I have cut down on flakes only twice a day about 20 seconds that they can eat. And my jewel is looking better and less fat. And I have been keeping the light off for her and she is coming out alittle more. But I was wondering if maybe I should try to feed them peas if they'll eat them and not food for acouple days? Has anyone ever tried peas? Thanks


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You could feed them a couple shelled peas. No need to stop regular feeding. I would throw in a couple once a week or so just as a preventative for bloat. :)

Glad to hear your fish are doing better.


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Thankyou! I put some peas in there and they went nutts over them lol, I thought I'd have a hard time getting them to eat them but not a problem at all. I just hope my jewel got some! ?


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What "flakes" are you feeding? It's likely very high in protein and indigestible fillers.


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Fish can do pretty well on little to eat. Their stomachs are roughly the size of their eyeballs.
Even if they are madly begging for food, does not mean they need to be fead.

I fead mine NLS twice a day, about 1-2 pellets per fish.

I also fast them once a week, sometimes for more than a day.
I didn't think I was over feeding before, but slowly realized I actually was and it was causing problems.

I did some research and they can actually last quite a while without eating. Like 2 weeks.



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As for sand, it's way way cleaner than gravel. It doesn't collect detritus like gravel will, in fact you don't even need to gravel vac it. Just hover the siphon over any detritus to pick it up.

They sound like they might have an internal parasite of some sort. I would probably look at trying out some metronidazole medicated food. It works best for internal parasites but will also take care of some bacterial infections as well.
 
View attachment 252398


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Well there is the bulk of your problem. That stuff is junk and is way to high of undigestible protein to be fed to Mbuna twice a day.

Crude Protein Min 44%
Crude Fat Min 6%
Crude Fiber Max 3%
Moisture Max 9%
Ascorbic Acid Vitamin 200mg per kg

Ingredients: Fish Meal, Wheat Flour, Corn Gluten Meal, Brewer's Dried Yeast, Wheat Germ Meal, Soy Protein Concentrate, Fish Oil, Shrimp Meal, Fish Protein Concentrate, Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal, Soy Protein Isolate, Algae Meal, Rolled Oats, Crab Meal, Krill Meal, Rice Flour, Pea Protein Concentrate, Herring Meal, Marigold Extract, Soy Lecithin, Potato Starch, Parboiled Brown Rice, Betaine, L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate, Xanthan Gum, Chlorophyll Extract, Dried Spinach, Zucchini, Astaxanthin, Peas, Dried Carrot, Anise Seed, Carrot Oleoresin, Choline Chloride, DL-Methionine, Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Riboflavin Supplement, Niacin Supplement, Calcium Pantothenate, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Cobalt Carbonate, Potassium Iodate, Sodium Selenite, Dried Tomato, Dried Kale, Ethoxyquin (A Preservative).

Now compare that NLS Thera-A

Crude Protein 38.0% min.
Crude Fat 7.0% min.
Crude Fiber 5.0% max.
Moisture 10.0% max.
Ash. 8.0% max.

Whole Antarctic Krill Meal, Whole Herring Meal, Whole Wheat Flour, Algae Meal, Garlic, Beta Carotene, Spirulina, Vegetable and Fruit Extract, Ginseng, Vitamin A Acetate, DL Alphatocopherol (E), D-Activated Animal-Sterol (D3), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Niacin, Folic Acid, Biotin, Thiamine, Riboflavin Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Calcium Pantothenate, L-Ascorby-2-Polyphosphate (Stable C), Choline Chloride, Ethylenediamine Dihydroiodide, Cobalt Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate and Manganese Sulfate.


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NLS is the best. Also, now I have t tried it yet, but the Cobalt with probiotics is supposed to be a great supplement too. But nothing beats New Life Spectrum. I use it for all my fish, not just my cichlids.


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Hi, 13sting. Good morning. I really feel sorry for your losses. It's always frustrating to see one of your fish die. If it's a case of bloat, try to withhold feeding for 1 day or 2. They will survive. I don't feed bloodworms. You will put your cichlids at risk for bloat and disease from the worms. Worms can carry a lot of diseases even if they claim that it is clean and free of diseases.
Don't lose hope. Keep on.


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Hi, 13sting. Good morning. I really feel sorry for your losses. It's always frustrating to see one of your fish die. If it's a case of bloat, try to withhold feeding for 1 day or 2. They will survive. I don't feed bloodworms. You will put your cichlids at risk for bloat and disease from the worms. Worms can carry a lot of diseases even if they claim that it is clean and free of diseases.
Don't lose hope. Keep on.


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Would that include frozen products like say blood worms. I'm not disagreeing with the idea but wondering why you say this out of interest? Thoughts appreciated.
 
Hi. Every time you use bloodworms, frozen or not, there's always a greater chance for the fish to get some kind if disease from the worms. Worms, because of their breeding conditions, are prone to attracting microbes and bacteria.


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Hi. Every time you use bloodworms, frozen or not, there's always a greater chance for the fish to get some kind if disease from the worms. Worms, because of their breeding conditions, are prone to attracting microbes and bacteria.


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Many thanks for the reply. I've been wondering if there are two aspects to this. Processing quality and also if they increase organic waste in the tank.

In Australia they are meant to be irradiated as well as frozen but is this successful? And for other places I'm not sure on but it seems processing has to be top notch as I would of thought a bacteria risk as well.

Second thing I've wondered is how much organic matter is added to the tank from feeding worms. Do the fish get everything or is there a smidgen floating around which also may be a bacteria risk as well??
 
I also feed NLS to every fish I keep. It is easy to feed, not messy and not filled with an excessive amount of fillers.
 
Hi. Every time you use bloodworms, frozen or not, there's always a greater chance for the fish to get some kind if disease from the worms. Worms, because of their breeding conditions, are prone to attracting microbes and bacteria.


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Bloodworms aren't even true annelids (worms), they are midge larvae. While they carry diseases it's very unlikely that they will be passed on to fish.

I've never had an issue feeding frozen blood "worms" in the 15+ years of fish keeping.

While they will cause bloat in fish that aren't meant to eat them, they won't spread diseases.



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Bloodworms aren't even true annelids (worms), they are midge larvae. While they carry diseases it's very unlikely that they will be passed on to fish.

I've never had an issue feeding frozen blood "worms" in the 15+ years of fish keeping.

While they will cause bloat in fish that aren't meant to eat them, they won't spread diseases.



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Out of interest are yours just frozen or are they treated/ irradiated as well?
 
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