Sick ram?

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erikmoseley

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I'm thinking I have some sort of parAsite. Bought some tetras from and didn't have a qt tank so acclimated them right in to my tank. Lost 5 of 6 of then in 48 hrs. Other one is alive a weekl later. Did water change Sunday. 2 days after getting them. Water is 79 deg. Ph is higher than rams normally like but my tap is and they've been great for 6 months in same conditions. And no deaths of any tank mates. Ph is 7.6 or so. Zero ammonia or nitrites and 20 nitrate. My other ram died earlier I. The week but showe no signs he was sick. Now this one who normally comes up and gets food outta my hand is not ok. It's still swims with it belly on bottom all around and is eating but he sinks to bottom every time he tries to come up (she I mean). Really wanna save her what do I do? Have lots of filtration on tank but during last pwc I took out bubble wand so no more air stone. Could that play a part? What do I treat with?
 
Rams have been weak for a while due to commercial over breeding. Bolivian rams are much hardier.

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It does sound like you may have introduced a pathogen. Returning the bubblestone couldn't hurt. Do you have adequate surface agitation from your filter for air exchange or do you have plants?

You could dose with a broad spectrum general cure medication just in case. Different people have different opinions on this of course, but in similar situations as yours, before I had a good QT system, I would use a product called parasite guard. It has antibacterial and antifungal medications included. Medicine does reduce water quality however so I always run an airstone when medicating a tank.

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My canister outlet moves the surface water but not too much. Ill add the air back in and look to get that medication. I suppose it can't hurt can it?

I did notice and this is probably due to all the air bubbles no longer popping on surface, that when on my knees in front of tank an looking up at surface that there looks to be a very slight white/ cloudy film at the top of surface. Water tested fine and the water is clear as glass. It's been going great for 7 months. Do you recommend changing more water before medicating? Tomorrows my weekly day to anyway
 
It certainly cant hurt to do a water change. If you get meds just be sure to follow instructions.

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Bio film on the top is harmless most of the time unless its stopping oxygen exchange at the surface. increase the surface aggitation and it should eliminate or minimize it.

I always do a larger change before medicating because some meds require repeated dosing to build a certain level but then im used to changing 30% every second day and cringe at 5 days recommended treatments which is the recommendation of most waterlifes medications ive used. But theyre so good i still choose them first if anything brakes out. Which only pops up when the fish are new. I still feel its too long for me especially when my fish are used to such regular changes.
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The parasite guard instructs to do a water change after 3 days and then redose.

Biofilm could indicate low oxygenation from inadequate surface agitation. If you dont have live plants then you need to get oxygen into your water somehow. Otherwise biofilm is harmless.

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I like to be on the safe side and do an extra partial water change if I have a slight concern.

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Should I treat while tank for parasite? I just realized I have a spare 10 gal not running I can put water from his tank into w an airstone and just him and medication in???
 
If you decide to treat, treat the whole tank. Id start off by getting your nitrates down below 10 and keep them there for a while. 7.6 is high but not ridiculous. It could however be catching up with him after a few months. If you don't see any improvement after getting your nitrates down then medicate.
 
Thanks community I think I'll do that I'll do a big water change today. Also adding some air to oxygenate. You think it's a temperature thing potentially? I I recently noticed that the tank temperature was nearly 85°! I know they like warmer Water but I thought that was a little high considering the other inhabitants. I turned the heater down to 81° and it's now keeping the aquarium at 79
 
I would treat the entire tank if your going to treat and follow the instructions precisely for the duration of the treatment.

I would keep the temperature 78-82 and yes a temp of 85 on top of you having removed the airstone and not having surface agitation means you probably had really low oxygen in your tank. Whenever you increase the heat water oxygen levels are reduced.

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I still haven't treated as I've been to 4 stores and not found anything that days internal parasite. All external. Until tonight found this but before I dose I have questions.

1. Do I still treat even though he seems to be getting better every day and has continues to eat fine he just doesn't come up more than halfway from the bottom And it still seems like a struggle For him although better than a couple days ago for sure

2. Why does it say to remove carbon from filters? I certainly will do it but it's a pain to get it from my internal filter if I use medImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1389739987.823099.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1389740002.765355.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1389740014.542115.jpg
 
Activated carbon will remove the medications from the water, so yes you have to remove it for the duration of the treatment. Then when your done, you add it back to remove medications.

Ultimately its up to you on if you want to treat or wait and see.

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Activated carbon will remove the medications from the water, so yes you have to remove it for the duration of the treatment. Then when your done, you add it back to remove medications.

Ultimately its up to you on if you want to treat or wait and see.

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correct, you can always use medicated food for internal parasites its supposed to work better. It can be ordered online. I quit rams a little while back because they would just randomly decline after a few months of good health and then die. My wild caught apistos appear more hardy and beautiful so I focus on them more.
 
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