SquishyFish
Aquarium Advice Addict
I thought, since I am doing so much research on my pond anyway, that I might put together a small article on the importance of plants in a pond. I may have gotten a little carried away. Here goes…
The first question that we may need to answer is “Do I have to have plants in my pond.” The short answer is “No.” The smart answer is “Yes.” The reasons for plants in your pond are pretty simple.
*Pond plants consume and convert Carbon Dioxide in the atmosphere to oxygen in the water and use it to produce energy in the form of sugars. This is called photosynthesis.
*All pond plants consume Nitrates and Phosphates which are introduced through fish waste and food, and build up in the water. If there is a lack of higher plant life in the pond , then algae will consume the nutrients, and the result will be the green water referred to as “pea soup.”
*All pond plants have limited filtering capabilities.
*Submerged pond plants are particularly good at oxygenating the water.
The second obvious question is, “How many plants will I need?” Generally a good rule of thumb is that for every 10 square feet of surface water you will need:
· 2 Bunches of oxygenating plants.
· 1 Water lily
· 1 Marginal
----This is simply a rule of thumb to judge the amount needed and not a planting guide. They need not be space according to this rule.
Many authorities say that 60% of your pond surface must be covered by some sort of floating plant to protect the fish from preditors, prevent algae growth, and lower temperature of the pond.
Generally, pond plants are divided into three different categories. Submerged , Floating, and Marginals (also known as Bog plants.) Floating plants can be further divided into three sub categories: Tropical Water Lilies, Hardy Lilies, and General Floating. General floating plants need no special care, and therefore will not be addressed. (Toss’em in! They float!) These are by no means scientific, but are divided as such on many web sites and educational books.
All plants are oxygenators, except free floating algae. However, it is crucial to point out that plants do not produce oxygen 24 hours a day. When the sun goes down, the oxygen production slows to a halt and the plants change over to consuming oxygen instead of producing it. The problems caused by a pond that is heavily stocked with fish and plants and lacks an outside oxygenator such as a waterfall, fountain, or air block are very quickly seen. If the fish and the plants compete for oxygen at night, one of them will eventually suffer.
That being said, why wouldn’t we just use some form of mechanical aeration? Simply put, oxygen dissolves into the water more efficiently by the natural release from the plant than by forced aeration from turbulence. The most effective at absorption and oxygenation is Curly Pond Weed, but is most rightly called Laragasiphon Major or more commonly, Elodea Crispa.
When planting, pots should be planted half full of soil, with 2-3 inches of gravel on top. Take care not to cover the tip of the rhizome. Some varieties, such as Marginals may need to be right at the water level.
Tropical Water Lilies come in day and night blooming varieties. Both should be planted in pots no smaller than 12” diameter, three to five gallons is recommended for each lilly. Set rhizome up right in soil, pack lightly and lower into the water approximately 6 inches. More mature plants can be lowered into deeper water up to 12 inches. Tropical Lilies cannot handle cold temperatures and are best planted once the water is at 70 degrees or higher. Lower temperatures can cause dormancy or restricted growth. Tropicals generally bloom from late spring to early fall, weather dependant.
Night blooming varieties are frequently available and are perfect for those who want to enjoy their water gardens in the evening. They will generally open fully an hour after sunset and close just before sunrise.
Hardy Lilies are planted in much the same way, but allow for more flexibility and inexperience. Hardy lilies grow horizontally across the container and require a wide pot for planting. Ideally, the rhizome is planted at one edge, at a 45degree angle with the crown exposed. Soil and gravel requirements are the same as the Tropical varieties. New plants should be positioned no lower than 6 inches to begin with, but may be lowered to 12 – 18 inches in time. Hardies are planted in early spring and will bloom from June to September, weather depending, and will become dormant during the colder months. They are often over-wintered in the pond. Simply lower them below the freeze level in the pond. As spring arrives, growth will resume.
Some sites recommend fertilizing both Tropical and Hardy Lilys as often as every three weeks.
Fertilization schedule
Water Lilies......60° - 74°F.....Monthly
Water Lilies......over 74°F.....Twice monthly
Lotus...............over 59°F.....Twice monthly
Bog Plants........over 59°F.....Monthly
Submerged.........................Never
The 2nd variety, Submersibles, are easily defined as any plant that is planted and remains fully submerged in the pond. These are, by far, the most efficient oxygenators of the three. The wide range and selection of this category makes it impossible to choose one or two to focus on. However, the planting requirements are similar to the floating varieties, but will tolerate being planted directly into the substrate. The one draw back to allowing them to roam free is that pruning them can become a chore if they are not in one or two specific places that allow for easy removal.
If you wisely decide to plant them in baskets, the process is very easy. A small basket, lead wire, and gravel are all that is needed. Fill the basket with the gravel, bind the 4-5 stems of plant together by wrapping the wire around the base, and then secure into the gravel. No need for soil, as the plant will take all of its nutrition from the water column. Fill the basket with as many bunches as possible. Keep the plants out of the water only as long as absolutely necessary. The basket may be planted up to on foot beneath the water.
Marginal plants are those that occupy the shallow areas of the pond, generally preferring up to 6 inches deep. Many can grow quite tall and may require the baskets to be weighted with rocks to prevent the wind blowing them over. As previously mention, they are also referred to as Bog plants that can grow in the shallowest of water, even simple mud. Examples of Marginals are Marsh marigold, Water buttons, and the common Cat Tails. Plant these in the same manner as the floating varieties.
(hope this may have helped)
The first question that we may need to answer is “Do I have to have plants in my pond.” The short answer is “No.” The smart answer is “Yes.” The reasons for plants in your pond are pretty simple.
*Pond plants consume and convert Carbon Dioxide in the atmosphere to oxygen in the water and use it to produce energy in the form of sugars. This is called photosynthesis.
*All pond plants consume Nitrates and Phosphates which are introduced through fish waste and food, and build up in the water. If there is a lack of higher plant life in the pond , then algae will consume the nutrients, and the result will be the green water referred to as “pea soup.”
*All pond plants have limited filtering capabilities.
*Submerged pond plants are particularly good at oxygenating the water.
The second obvious question is, “How many plants will I need?” Generally a good rule of thumb is that for every 10 square feet of surface water you will need:
· 2 Bunches of oxygenating plants.
· 1 Water lily
· 1 Marginal
----This is simply a rule of thumb to judge the amount needed and not a planting guide. They need not be space according to this rule.
Many authorities say that 60% of your pond surface must be covered by some sort of floating plant to protect the fish from preditors, prevent algae growth, and lower temperature of the pond.
Generally, pond plants are divided into three different categories. Submerged , Floating, and Marginals (also known as Bog plants.) Floating plants can be further divided into three sub categories: Tropical Water Lilies, Hardy Lilies, and General Floating. General floating plants need no special care, and therefore will not be addressed. (Toss’em in! They float!) These are by no means scientific, but are divided as such on many web sites and educational books.
All plants are oxygenators, except free floating algae. However, it is crucial to point out that plants do not produce oxygen 24 hours a day. When the sun goes down, the oxygen production slows to a halt and the plants change over to consuming oxygen instead of producing it. The problems caused by a pond that is heavily stocked with fish and plants and lacks an outside oxygenator such as a waterfall, fountain, or air block are very quickly seen. If the fish and the plants compete for oxygen at night, one of them will eventually suffer.
That being said, why wouldn’t we just use some form of mechanical aeration? Simply put, oxygen dissolves into the water more efficiently by the natural release from the plant than by forced aeration from turbulence. The most effective at absorption and oxygenation is Curly Pond Weed, but is most rightly called Laragasiphon Major or more commonly, Elodea Crispa.
When planting, pots should be planted half full of soil, with 2-3 inches of gravel on top. Take care not to cover the tip of the rhizome. Some varieties, such as Marginals may need to be right at the water level.
Tropical Water Lilies come in day and night blooming varieties. Both should be planted in pots no smaller than 12” diameter, three to five gallons is recommended for each lilly. Set rhizome up right in soil, pack lightly and lower into the water approximately 6 inches. More mature plants can be lowered into deeper water up to 12 inches. Tropical Lilies cannot handle cold temperatures and are best planted once the water is at 70 degrees or higher. Lower temperatures can cause dormancy or restricted growth. Tropicals generally bloom from late spring to early fall, weather dependant.
Night blooming varieties are frequently available and are perfect for those who want to enjoy their water gardens in the evening. They will generally open fully an hour after sunset and close just before sunrise.
Hardy Lilies are planted in much the same way, but allow for more flexibility and inexperience. Hardy lilies grow horizontally across the container and require a wide pot for planting. Ideally, the rhizome is planted at one edge, at a 45degree angle with the crown exposed. Soil and gravel requirements are the same as the Tropical varieties. New plants should be positioned no lower than 6 inches to begin with, but may be lowered to 12 – 18 inches in time. Hardies are planted in early spring and will bloom from June to September, weather depending, and will become dormant during the colder months. They are often over-wintered in the pond. Simply lower them below the freeze level in the pond. As spring arrives, growth will resume.
Some sites recommend fertilizing both Tropical and Hardy Lilys as often as every three weeks.
Fertilization schedule
Water Lilies......60° - 74°F.....Monthly
Water Lilies......over 74°F.....Twice monthly
Lotus...............over 59°F.....Twice monthly
Bog Plants........over 59°F.....Monthly
Submerged.........................Never
The 2nd variety, Submersibles, are easily defined as any plant that is planted and remains fully submerged in the pond. These are, by far, the most efficient oxygenators of the three. The wide range and selection of this category makes it impossible to choose one or two to focus on. However, the planting requirements are similar to the floating varieties, but will tolerate being planted directly into the substrate. The one draw back to allowing them to roam free is that pruning them can become a chore if they are not in one or two specific places that allow for easy removal.
If you wisely decide to plant them in baskets, the process is very easy. A small basket, lead wire, and gravel are all that is needed. Fill the basket with the gravel, bind the 4-5 stems of plant together by wrapping the wire around the base, and then secure into the gravel. No need for soil, as the plant will take all of its nutrition from the water column. Fill the basket with as many bunches as possible. Keep the plants out of the water only as long as absolutely necessary. The basket may be planted up to on foot beneath the water.
Marginal plants are those that occupy the shallow areas of the pond, generally preferring up to 6 inches deep. Many can grow quite tall and may require the baskets to be weighted with rocks to prevent the wind blowing them over. As previously mention, they are also referred to as Bog plants that can grow in the shallowest of water, even simple mud. Examples of Marginals are Marsh marigold, Water buttons, and the common Cat Tails. Plant these in the same manner as the floating varieties.
(hope this may have helped)
