In need of algae eater advice

[sarah_hart81]

I have 2 tanks, a 29g molly/platy tank and a 55g african cichlid tank, that are in need of algae eaters. I'm looking for something that will be happy solo ie not in a school and will be size and temperment appropriate for each tank. Any suggestions?

 

[Mebbid]

I guess Bristle nose plecos would be your only choice in the cichlid tank and nerites could work in the smaller one; but it won't really solve anything.

How long are you running your lights daily and what type of algae is it?

 

[BBradbury]

Algae

I have 2 tanks, a 29g molly/platy tank and a 55g african cichlid tank, that are in need of algae eaters. I'm looking for something that will be happy solo ie not in a school and will be size and temperment appropriate for each tank. Any suggestions?

Hello sarah...

Is the algae overgrowing? Some is good for your fishes' diet and a natural part of a healthy tank. If you feed your fish too much or dose too much plant fertilizer, you'll create an ideal situation for algae.

You can reduce the amount you feed. Aquarium fish can easily subsist on a couple of small feedings per week. That's what I do and I have little in the way of algae. Large, weekly water changes will keep the water free of added nutrients. I change half the water in my tanks weekly.

I don't mess with lighting. My plants didn't like the change. I had better results when I reduced the food. I like to keep some Ramshorn snails in my tanks. They do a very good job of keeping the algae down. Anacharis plants are good too. I just float them. They give off a mild chemical that algae doesn't tolerate well. The more of this plant you have, the less algae grows. That's been my observation, anyway.

Hope this helps.

B

 

[NadiaG]

+1 for a couple of nerite snails in a smaller tank. If algae is not a bad case, these guys will take care of it. The zebras are cute and they do not reproduce.

 

[rmiller]

+1 on addressing the cause of the algae. Over feeding and too much light are two of the biggest causes of algae growth.

 

[Rivercats]

A picture of the algae is needed for proper identification. Start by running lighting for 6 hours daily until algae is gone. What type lighting and how long are you running it daily? What is your nitrate level?

Different types of algae eaters have specific algae they eat so just because you get an algae eater doesn't mean it will eat the type of algae you have. If you find the cause of the algae and correct it you won't need an algae eater. Also some types of algae can be spot treated with hydrogen peroxide 3%.

 

[sarah_hart81]

Unfortunately I can't post a pic. We live in the dark ages here, no digital cams, cell phones or even cable. The internet is our one acknowledgment that technology exists. Anyways I don't think I'm overfeeding, but I know there are different schools of thought on this. I've been going by the as much as they can eat in one minute once a day method and they leave nothing behind, there is definitely no food going to waste. I probably have been running my lights too long in my 29g. I turn them on when I wake up and off when I go to bed, but the 55g has no lights at all at the moment. I bought the tank used and the lights weren't functioning. However it is in front of a window and I leave the curtains open all day. As for nitrates they are crazy off the charts high. My tap water comes out at 40-80 ppm. I have bought an RO unit and am working on getting everyone adjusted to the new water, but even after doing 2 50% WCs with 75% RO water my nitrates are still crazy high (I can't tell exactly how high because 40 and 80 ppm look exactly the same to me on the color chart). River cats since your my RO expert maybe you can help me out with this, when are my nitrates going to drop?

 

[Rivercats]

The best way to initially drop nitrates is to do a 25% WC two times spaced out in the first week using "only" RO water to add back in. Don't mix it with tap. Then after the 2nd water change see where nitrates are at. You might have to do this again the second week also. Once you get nitrates to a reasonable level then go back to doing one weekly water change using 75% RO and 25% tap and see where your nitrate levels are. If using 25% tap still keeps nitrates too high then I would suggest using all RO water and then remineralizing it with Seachem's Equilibrium if the tank is planted or Seachem's Replenish if it's a fish only tank.

 

[BBradbury]

Nitrates

Unfortunately I can't post a pic. We live in the dark ages here, no digital cams, cell phones or even cable. The internet is our one acknowledgment that technology exists. Anyways I don't think I'm overfeeding, but I know there are different schools of thought on this. I've been going by the as much as they can eat in one minute once a day method and they leave nothing behind, there is definitely no food going to waste. I probably have been running my lights too long in my 29g. I turn them on when I wake up and off when I go to bed, but the 55g has no lights at all at the moment. I bought the tank used and the lights weren't functioning. However it is in front of a window and I leave the curtains open all day. As for nitrates they are crazy off the charts high. My tap water comes out at 40-80 ppm. I have bought an RO unit and am working on getting everyone adjusted to the new water, but even after doing 2 50% WCs with 75% RO water my nitrates are still crazy high (I can't tell exactly how high because 40 and 80 ppm look exactly the same to me on the color chart). River cats since your my RO expert maybe you can help me out with this, when are my nitrates going to drop?

Hello again...

Have you tried not jumping through so many hoops for your tank and just do the basics. If you keep your tank duties simple, your fish and plants will take care of themselves and the hobby will be more enjoyable. Feeding: Fish can easily subsist on 2 feedings a week, just feed a variety. Frozen, freeze dried and flakes. The vast majority of aquarium fish will adapt to the vast majority of public water supplies. Your nitrates are high, okay. This form of nitrogen is at the tail end of the nitrogen cycle, so it isn't toxic to your fish. Even high levels will at most cause a very slight discomfort. They'll adapt, tank fish have for decades. Floating plants use nitrates. Pennywort, Anacharis and Hornwort are very good and grow in most light conditions. Algae grows naturally in a healthy tank and is good for your fishes' diet. Change out the water frequently and you maintain a stable water chemistry and safety for the tank inhabitants. A stable chemistry is more important than a particular chemistry. There's not a fish out there that won't benefit from large, frequent water changes.

Good luck sifting through all the information you're getting. You don't seem to be having any fun in the water keeping hobby. Maybe if you simplify things a little, there won't be so much to remember and the hobby might be more fun.

B

 

[Mebbid]

Your nitrates are high, okay. This form of nitrogen is at the tail end of the nitrogen cycle, so it isn't toxic to your fish.

Saying Nitrates aren't toxic is a VERY misleading bit of information. While they aren't AS toxic as ammonia and nitrites; increased levels of nitrates can and will kill fish when they are exposed to it over a long period of time whether directly through nitrate poisoning or secondary infections due to high stress on the fish.

 

[BBradbury]

Nitrates

Saying Nitrates aren't toxic is a VERY misleading bit of information. While they aren't AS toxic as ammonia and nitrites; increased levels of nitrates can and will kill fish when they are exposed to it over a long period of time whether directly through nitrate poisoning or secondary infections due to high stress on the fish.

Hello Med...

Nitrates and other forms of nitrogen take time to build up to harmful levels in the tank. If you remove and replace water in the tank frequently, like I suggested doing in my post, there's no time for toxins to build to harmful levels before you remove them again by performing a water change.

Granted, if you're a " water change slacker", you risk killing your fish.

B

 

[Mebbid]

Hello Med...

Nitrates and other forms of nitrogen take time to build up to harmful levels in the tank. If you remove and replace water in the tank frequently, like I suggested doing in my post, there's no time for toxins to build to harmful levels before you remove them again by performing a water change.

Granted, if you're a " water change slacker", you risk killing your fish.

B

80ppm is in the danger zone for all except the hardiest of fish which is what the source water in this this case. Ignoring other advice "because it complicates things" when that advice is actively helping to reduce nitrates in the tank isn't something that should be suggested. There's no build up period for nitrates for the op because they are constantly there.

 

[Rivercats]

Hello again...

Have you tried not jumping through so many hoops for your tank and just do the basics. If you keep your tank duties simple, your fish and plants will take care of themselves and the hobby will be more enjoyable. Feeding: Fish can easily subsist on 2 feedings a week, just feed a variety. Frozen, freeze dried and flakes. The vast majority of aquarium fish will adapt to the vast majority of public water supplies. Your nitrates are high, okay. This form of nitrogen is at the tail end of the nitrogen cycle, so it isn't toxic to your fish. Even high levels will at most cause a very slight discomfort. They'll adapt, tank fish have for decades. Floating plants use nitrates. Pennywort, Anacharis and Hornwort are very good and grow in most light conditions. Algae grows naturally in a healthy tank and is good for your fishes' diet. Change out the water frequently and you maintain a stable water chemistry and safety for the tank inhabitants. A stable chemistry is more important than a particular chemistry. There's not a fish out there that won't benefit from large, frequent water changes.

Good luck sifting through all the information you're getting. You don't seem to be having any fun in the water keeping hobby. Maybe if you simplify things a little, there won't be so much to remember and the hobby might be more fun.

B

!

Nitrates are toxic at high levels and can cause more than discomfort to fish! Why in the world would you even want to do something that even causes discomfort much less can lead to death when something can be done to remedy the situation quite easily! The OP is trying to do what is best for their fish and in this instance saying there isn't a fish out there that won't benefit from large, frequent WC when water has high levels of nitrates to start with, not even factoring in the nitrates that are produced within the tank itself is ludicrous in this particular instance. You should be encouraging the OP in their efforts, which are not complicated as you seem to think, and not assume they aren't enjoying the hobby.

 

[Rivercats]

High nitrate levels are especially harmful to fry and young fish, and will affect their growth. High nitrate levels can cause listlessness, loss of appetite, laying on the tank bottom, and many other symptoms and react to high nitrate levels.

If nitrates rise slowly over time, it is not unusual for only one or two fish to start to exhibit problems. Unless nitrate testing is done, there is no apparent reason for the why the fish mysteriously became ill. If nitrate levels are not reduced, more fish will show symptoms over time. Eventually fish can die. Weak, stressed, sick, or sensitive fish are the first to exhibit symptoms.

When fish are suddenly exposed to very high nitrate levels they can die quite quickly. Often owners are not aware of the problem until the fish are either dead or close to death. In these situations, there is little that can be done for the affected fish, but recognizing it can avert tragedy for other fish that might otherwise have been added to the tank.

If nitrates rise slowly over time often only 1 or 2 fish exhibit symptoms. If no nitrate testing is done there is no apparent reason for the why the fish mysteriously became ill. If nitrate levels are not reduced, more fish will show symptoms. Fish can die, and with fish that are more sensitive to high nitrates being the first to show signs of nitrate poisoning and possibly dying.

When fish are suddenly exposed to very high nitrate levels they can get sick and or die quite quickly. Especially weak, sick, stressed, or sensitive fish.

 

[sarah_hart81]

As always River Cats thank you for all your advice and expertise (this is my 3rd question you have responded to). I don't know what I would have done without your help getting started in this fascinating hobby. So I think I am going to switch (gradually of course) to pure RO water with the Seachem you recommended. My 29g is fully stocked so I'll start the switch immediately. I have a pregnant molly that has 2, 3 weeks tops until she gives birth and I really want the fry to have their best chance so I will try to get my nitrates under control by then. Question with the 55g. It is not fully stocked and I'm sure the fish I buy locally will have been raised in our town's tap water. Should I wait until it is fully stocked before I start making drastic changes to the water? And will the Seachems be enough in that tank to keep my african cichlids happy? I've been looking at APIs Cichlid Buffer Max and Cichlid African Mineral Salts. Should I add both those and Seachems or just one or the other?

 

[Rivercats]

Glad to help when I can! How much more stocking do you have to do? And how long will it be before it's fully stocked? IMO I would start slowly lowering the nitrates by using the RO now. If your getting fish from a local fish store they may not have nitrate issues depending on the type of in-store filtration system which most all tanks are run off of.

What I would do when adding new fish is to test the water they are in to see what the nitrates are (just so you have an idea if or how different they are to your nitrates) and then do a slow "drip" acclimation. This will slowly add low nitrate water into their water so they aren't shocked with a sudden change to low nitrates (that is if the water they are kept in even has high nitrates). I just feel getting the fish you have now into good low nitrate water is important.

I'm not too much help with African Cichlids but what you need to do is find out if the Cichlid buffer is basically the same as say the Seachem Replenish or see if it's different and if so how. Actually it would be to post that question on AA's cichlid forum where all the African cichlids people are. They can answer all your questions about them.