QT Questions

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revhtree

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Apr 13, 2004
Messages
4,500
Location
Rossville. Ga
I have had all my fish in a qt tank now for 6 days. I used all water from the main tank to fill this 20g qt tank. I have a small hob filter, small powerhead running at the to of the water, and an airstone running on the bottom. I have 5 fish in the qt. (see my signature for types of fish) I have been treating with cupramine. All the fish have been eating except the yello tang. He is hanging out in the corner at all times.

Now to the questions.

1. Can you ever achieve a low level of Nirite, and Ammonia in a qt of this size, with this much bio-load? (I have done 4 water changes of 20-25%)
The Ammonia is just below 1.0
The Nitrite is .25

2. The qt tank was set up new, with the main tank water as mentioned above. Does it have to have tim to cycle?

3. This is alot of fish for this size. What would you suggest as far as feeding amounts, time, and food for this qt tank?

I am doing a 20% water change every day now, I can't do this for 4 more weeks!!!!!!! :twisted:

IS THIS NORMAL FOR A QT TANK????

Thanks for hearing me Rant a little, and thanks for all the help. :wink:
 
FWIW, thats the norm for my QT right now and its going on 2 weeks. I dont think the tank will cycle as long as the copper is there.

Dont know what your budget is but I purchased an RO/DI filter from Air, Water, & Ice for $236.95 shipped. Its more economical for me I am running a 75, 65,& 29gal tanks, than paying for RO water from the LFS.

I only add a little food at a time, once they have eaten it I add a little more and vacuum out the uneaten stuff. Do you feed the tang algae sheets?

I acually do about 75% water changes to keep the nitrates to a min.

HTH,
Rich
 
it is normal for a QT to have fluctuating levels. But I think the biggest cause for your troubles is having 5 fish in a 20 gallon QT. if there is any way you can find a cheap ($10) 10/20 gallon tank and HOB. grab one of the PH's from your display tank and move you're three smaller, hardier fish into that one. Your tang is likely feeling QUITE a bit closterphobic (sp). if you can get three fish into another tank it might help him a little. I think what you're doing with the feeding is just fine as long as your vacuming the leftovers.
 
Ok, I cannot get the Ammonia down. I have done at least a 20% water change for 4 straight days and the ammonia is at 1.0 and the nitrite is .25, the nitrate is up a little. Any suggestions?
 
OK we have established that fact. Now how can I improve the water conditions, if I have no other way to get another tank, and filter right now?

Thanks. :wink:
 
revhtree said:
OK we have established that fact. Now how can I improve the water conditions, if I have no other way to get another tank, and filter right now?

Thanks. :wink:
Rubbermaid tub, heater and a powerhead.

As long as you are treating with copper, water changes are just a fact you will have to deal with. If you can seperate enough fish to re-distribute the bioload, it will be less taxing on the water quality. Water changes will still be needed for both though :wink:

Cheers
Steve
 
Ok update: I'm frustrated so forgive me when I say this......Would it ne batter for my fish to be in the main tank and have a chance of getting ich or die of stress in my qt. Water changes everyday and even 6 hrs ago. I just checked the levels. The water felt greesy like, and the Nitrite was up to .50, trate 10, ph 8.5, ammonia .50.

Sorry I frustrated....maybe this is just to much for me to handle...

Thanks for letting me vent.
 
This is one of the reasons I always recommend hyposalinity in cases of confirmed ich. It does not affect the biofilter in the least and makes the ease of the process quite painless. If I remember correctly, you (us?) were not able to tell if this was ich or velvet. Unfortunately in that case, copper must be used as hypo has a very limited affect on velvet.

Placing the fish back in the main to fend for themselves or leaving them in the QT would not have the same result. If placed back in the main there is a very good chance they will succumb to the parasite and die. If left in the QT and treatment is continued coupled with the needed (twice daily in some cases) water changes, they have a much higher chance of survival. It has not yet been a week and the needed treatment time is 21 days using copper.

Cheers
Steve
 
It is a week today....sigh....

I came to the conclusion that it was def. ich. None of the symptons showed velvet. It was just alot of little spots on one fish, which are now gone. Can I still treat with hyposalinity?

Thanks.
 
revhtree said:
Can I still treat with hyposalinity?
You could but you would need to remove all traces of the copper (water changes and carbon) before you could begin. Also bare in mind that it would mean the treatment process would begin anew (4 more weeks) and the tank would still need time to "cycle" with any new seeded media (which cannot be added until the copper is gone) to reduce the amount of your maintenance. If you can tolerate the water changes, I would suggest sticking with the copper since you are already 1/3 the way through.

Switching now could cause more issues than you may be prepared to deal with :wink:

Cheers
Steve
 
True.

The water smells a little to much like the ocean, does this mean anything? And what about the greasy water?

Thanks Steve, your the BOMB!
 
Yes I believe, but just off of the fish. They would just get reinfected by the tank water. I think.... :wink:
 
YEA!!! I got something right...now how about the water smell, and greasy feeling, oh great SW GURU? (Steve-s)
 
revhtree said:
The water smells a little to much like the ocean, does this mean anything? And what about the greasy water?
It's basically nutrient and DOC. Keeping up with the water changes, feeding very lightly each day (or second day) and syphoning out uneaten foods and detritus after each feeding will help tremendously.

Cheers
Steve
 
As I stated earlier that a few hours after my water change that the trite, and other levels were up. Will the fish be ok till the next water change? What are the real high levels for each test, that I should do something immediatly?

Thanks Again Steve. (SW GURU)
 
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