algea on plants

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tiger terror

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I have green algea coming on some of my plants&was wondering if a uv sterilizer would be beneficial? Any thoughts would be appreciated...Thx
 
What kind of algae is it? Hair algae? BGA? GSA? That would help to determine if you may benefit from a UV sterilizer. My first inclination would be that there is probably a better way to fix the problem though. UV sterilizers aren't the best solution for a planted tank.
 
I would not recommend using an UV sterilizer on planted tanks. They can kill some of the useful stuff plants can use. Big IF you do, use it sparingly. Having said that, it might solve one problem but create another. Green algae can be caused by excess of nutrients. Excess dosing, feeding, etc. Watch those things and in time it could start clearing up. Until then, keep leaves clean using soft wool or even algae pad. Good luck.
 
It seems that I have a combination of all three...I dose with flourish 2 times a week,6ml on the 75g,2ml on my 20g&I also use root tabs for the root feeders..any ideas?
 
Do you run co2? What type of lighting? How many hours a day do you run your lights? Also are the fixtures right on top of the tank or a few inches above on legs or mounted? Sorry for the barrage of questions but a few things we all need to know to help out.
 
Discusapisto said:
Do you run co2? What type of lighting? How many hours a day do you run your lights? Also are the fixtures right on top of the tank or a few inches above on legs or mounted? Sorry for the barrage of questions but a few things we all need to know to help out.

Ok,Thx for the response...the 75g has 3 lights: 2 of them being 48" coral life t5 NO's -2 daylight-2 actinic bulbs&the other being a marineland 36" which I use for lunar lighting..t5's are on for 9 consecutive hrs&the lunar lighting stays on around the clock..all three lights rest on top of my glass hood approx. 3" above the water level&also no co2 on this tank.. the 20g tall has a 24" t5 dual bulb 6500k HO which sits above the tank approx. 5 3/4" above the water level running for 9hrs consecutively..using a DIY co2 unit at 1 bps..
 
tiger terror said:
Ok,Thx for the response...the 75g has 3 lights: 2 of them being 48" coral life t5 NO's -2 daylight-2 actinic bulbs&the other being a marineland 36" which I use for lunar lighting..t5's are on for 9 consecutive hrs&the lunar lighting stays on around the clock..all three lights rest on top of my glass hood approx. 3" above the water level&also no co2 on this tank.. the 20g tall has a 24" t5 dual bulb 6500k HO which sits above the tank approx. 5 3/4" above the water level running for 9hrs consecutively..using a DIY co2 unit at 1 bps..

And the algae is in both tanks or just the 75?
 
Discusapisto said:
And the algae is in both tanks or just the 75?

Ok the 75 assuming your bulbs are still new (within a year old) a few things jump out at me pretty quick here. Why run lunar lights 24-7? That's extra light right there that really isn't needed but also not the worst offender either. Now depending on your 48 inch bulbs you mention they are daylight bulbs, my guess is they are prob not the right par value/spectrum/or lumens for your tank. Shoot for bulbs rated on a broad scale 4200k-8000k(me personally I use 4200-6700k) with a high par/lumen value preferably a quality bulb and reflector as well, now Kelvin rating and wattage isn't the thing that's most important about bulbs like what's beaten into our heads. I'm sure I'm gonna forget a few points in lighting but I'll get back to them. I'd highly recommend some form of regular/constant co2 because for the lighting you do have it's deff enough to grow a algae field without the proper lighting,co2. Dose excel per manufactures instructions, a DIY system, pressurized,or those smaller kits you find online any will help you out really. I myself have pressurized and I can't imagine my life without it now. Here's what I'd think may work in your case, find newer and the right bulbs for your tank, get them a bit higher up off the glass a 75 gallon is wide so you want your lighting to really hit all areas unless you want some shady spots. And do you have jumping fish or prefer glass tops? I only ask because my planted tanks are all open top for maximum light penetration but fish can jump and water evaporates a lil faster but it's worth it to me when I seen the difference it made on my plants when I went topless on my tanks years ago. (Just a thought). Now are you doing weekly water changes and what's your bio-load? Too many nutrients or fish waste can really spur on algae without proper wc's, and with extra lighting watch out lol! If it was me if get four new bulbs if money allows lord knows this hobby is pricey. Get the right kind of bulbs, get rid of that lunar light unless you wanna run it at night for a bit in that case put it on a timer. Get your daylights on a regular 10-12 hour cycle once you correct water params(if any to correct) I'd highly recommend some sort of co2 if that's not an option go the other direction and take lights off and run a low light tank. My best friend has a 75 full of crypts and various anubias,ferns and it's low tech and stunning. So that's another option for ya. Also don't overfeed with a dry food that is high in phosphates or fillers it adds to water quality issues if it's not being consumed and left to sit. Stick to more natural or whole dry foods. I know I'm leaving something out but I'll be back look forward to hearing from ya hope this helps as merely a guideline by all means find what's best for you. And let's get rid of this algae so you can enjoy your hobby, more time watching less time scrubbing lol!!!
 
Discusapisto said:
I'll tackle your other tank after we get a lid on the 75 too:)

Thx for getting back to me...thinking I just might go to low light in the 75g,would the 36" marineland led be considered low light? It has both lunar and daylight...also I keep lake malawi cichlids in this tank(19 in total)
 
tiger terror said:
Thx for getting back to me...thinking I just might go to low light in the 75g,would the 36" marineland led be considered low light? It has both lunar and daylight...also I keep lake malawi cichlids in this tank(19 in total)

Lol my bad I didn't realize it was a cichlid tank:) yes the marineland led is perfect for a Malawi tank. Here I was thinking it was fully planted I knew I forgot to ask you something:)as for the 29 gallon most of what I said applies to that tank as well but you have some co2 running in there which gets you a step in the right direction friend.(thumb).
 
Discusapisto said:
Lol my bad I didn't realize it was a cichlid tank:) yes the marineland led is perfect for a Malawi tank. Here I was thinking it was fully planted I knew I forgot to ask you something:)as for the 29 gallon most of what I said applies to that tank as well but you have some co2 running in there which gets you a step in the right direction friend.(thumb).

The 75g is sparsely planted..the stock goes as follows-1 anubias congensis, 1 anubias barteri,amazon sword,ruffled sword&horn wort..
 
tiger terror said:
The 75g is sparsely planted..the stock goes as follows-1 anubias congensis, 1 anubias barteri,amazon sword,ruffled sword&horn wort..

The sword plants won't last the attentions of the cichlids as they grow plus they really grow better in a fully planted tank so move them to your 29 if room allows. The anubias how ever are perfect for cichlids I have a lake tangniyikan tank with anubias all through out the tank with LEDs and my lighting is in about 6 hours a day no algae issues or any with the plants for that matter. If your getting algae on the anubias cut back your photo period for a bit and see if that helps.
 
Discusapisto said:
The sword plants won't last the attentions of the cichlids as they grow plus they really grow better in a fully planted tank so move them to your 29 if room allows. The anubias how ever are perfect for cichlids I have a lake tangniyikan tank with anubias all through out the tank with LEDs and my lighting is in about 6 hours a day no algae issues or any with the plants for that matter. If your getting algae on the anubias cut back your photo period for a bit and see if that helps.

Took your advice&moved the swords the 20g tall planted tank..

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Discusapisto said:
The sword plants won't last the attentions of the cichlids as they grow plus they really grow better in a fully planted tank so move them to your 29 if room allows. The anubias how ever are perfect for cichlids I have a lake tangniyikan tank with anubias all through out the tank with LEDs and my lighting is in about 6 hours a day no algae issues or any with the plants for that matter. If your getting algae on the anubias cut back your photo period for a bit and see if that helps.

Wanting to add some fish to the tank,had a breeding pair of convicts in the tank with a small chinese algea eater..as of today I rehomed the breeding pair&kept the algea eater..my temp is about 80 degrees & ph 8.2..any suggestions would be appreciated...Thx
 
Discusapisto said:
They are gonna do way better in there for sure(thumb:)

What if any suggestions would you have on fish?really liking gbr's but don't think my setup is compatible..
 
If it's a Chinese algae eater your better to give him up as well. A tank that size I'd do a pair of rams and a nice school of tetras with the plants it will be a sweet set up. Chinese algae eaters don't do much of anything get a bristle nose pleco or oto cats they would suit your situation better.
 
Discusapisto said:
If it's a Chinese algae eater your better to give him up as well. A tank that size I'd do a pair of rams and a nice school of tetras with the plants it will be a sweet set up. Chinese algae eaters don't do much of anything get a bristle nose pleco or oto cats they would suit your situation better.

I thought ram's preferred soft water,I am wrong on that?&the algea eater I will toss back in with the Africans..definitely want a bristlenose(they are really cool)...
 
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