Plants Melting?

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James G

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Feb 14, 2018
Messages
99
Location
Alberta Canada
Recently i rescaped my tank, for some reason two of my plants an anubias nana and a crypt literally melted im my hands, with the littlest touth the leaves came of and the rhizome turned into a sort of mush, Leaves, roots, and rhizome looked fine but when touched came off, the other crypt and various anubias were fine anyone know whats going on? thanks.
 
Crypts are prone to melting when disturbed. I had an anubias do that once too, could be a virus/bacteria/fungus infection causing rhizome rot.

Were they healthy plants before moving them?
 
Are you dosing anything? Fish load in the tank? Unhappy plants are the most unacceptable to melting back.
 
My guess is the plants are hungry, and being moved is adding to their stresses causing the melting.

I would use some tabs underneath the crypts and do some light water column dosing for the anubias (and most other plants too).


Flourish comprehensive for micro nutrients and maybe some KH2PO4 for K and P, let the fish produce the N.
 
I would say thrive and no root tabs as if there's ferts in your water column there are ferts in the substate, unless it's dirted then I might go with nilcog tabs, florish is a waste 8f money as it's just water where thrive is absolutely amazing and it's both micro and macro.
My guess is the plants are hungry, and being moved is adding to their stresses causing the melting.

I would use some tabs underneath the crypts and do some light water column dosing for the anubias (and most other plants too).


Flourish comprehensive for micro nutrients and maybe some KH2PO4 for K and P, let the fish produce the N.
 
I would say thrive and no root tabs as if there's ferts in your water column there are ferts in the substate, unless it's dirted then I might go with nilcog tabs, florish is a waste 8f money as it's just water where thrive is absolutely amazing and it's both micro and macro.

Not quite a waste ;) if using for micro's only, it's a fantastic substitute for CSM+B.

OP has crpyts, vals and anubias.... Flourish comp would work perfect for anubias and tabs would work perfect for crypts and vals.

Thrive will work just as well, but depending on pH I like having some tabs under the more rooty plants to ensure there is always some available nutrients right where the plant likes them. Like I said in another post OP, I will send you some of my custom tabs for free if you want.
 
Not quite a waste ;) if using for micro's only, it's a fantastic substitute for CSM+B.

OP has crpyts, vals and anubias.... Flourish comp would work perfect for anubias and tabs would work perfect for crypts and vals.

Thrive will work just as well, but depending on pH I like having some tabs under the more rooty plants to ensure there is always some available nutrients right where the plant likes them. Like I said in another post OP, I will send you some of my custom tabs for free if you want.
Had alot of people that told me not to add tabs to my tank because of my nutrient dosing, as they said since I have fine gravel my substrate is just a big root tab lol, abd that I can throw off my tank parameters if I add them, even though nilcog tabs don't contain ammonia
 
Had alot of people that told me not to add tabs to my tank because of my nutrient dosing, as they said since I have fine gravel my substrate is just a big root tab lol, abd that I can throw off my tank parameters if I add them, even though nilcog tabs don't contain ammonia

In my current low tech tank, I dose KNO3, MgSO4, CSM+B, K2SO4 daily, and without tabs my swords and crpyts grow 200% slower.... Add a few tabs and they go crazy for a month or two.

Now, no PO4 in my daily dosing, I'll admit, but for me, plants with the big root systems have always done very very well, always shown a positive response to adding tabs.

I doubt they will do anything to tank parameters, I've never seen any disadvantages, I usually add about 20 in my 90 gal when I feel like giving the plants a shot.
 
In my current low tech tank, I dose KNO3, MgSO4, CSM+B, K2SO4 daily, and without tabs my swords and crpyts grow 200% slower.... Add a few tabs and they go crazy for a month or two.

Now, no PO4 in my daily dosing, I'll admit, but for me, plants with the big root systems have always done very very well, always shown a positive response to adding tabs.

I doubt they will do anything to tank parameters, I've never seen any disadvantages, I usually add about 20 in my 90 gal when I feel like giving the plants a shot.
I don't know just advice from Barr and Dennis and many others, I guess it's because of my nitrates being 30 or something
 
I don't know just advice from Barr and Dennis and many others, I guess it's because of my nitrates being 30 or something

Tabs ain't going to add more nitrates.... Those guys are in a whole other dosing league, way past the average hobbyist anyway. I agree completely with them, I have massive swords + crypts + halanthiums in a high tech tank with an inert substrate and no tabs, so obviously water column dosing works,

But for low tech + easy dosing tabs work fine (as long as there is still some water column ferts, never skimp on the water column dosing)...


Not saying any way is wrong or this way is better than that way etc etc.


But tabs work well, PPS works well, EI works well, Dirt works well.... Options options options, each has their own pros + cons, I like giving posters options on different things.


IDK about you but 50% + WC's on 100+ gallon tanks are annoying, plus cutom RO mixing and DIY daily micro mixes is a lot for newer hobbyist to take in.

where as 3 x weekly water column ferts plus a tab or two per large rooty plant every 1-2 months with smaller 30% WC's seems a lot more doable plus easier on the wallet (within reason).
 
Tabs ain't going to add more nitrates.... Those guys are in a whole other dosing league, way past the average hobbyist anyway. I agree completely with them, I have massive swords + crypts + halanthiums in a high tech tank with an inert substrate and no tabs, so obviously water column dosing works,

But for low tech + easy dosing tabs work fine (as long as there is still some water column ferts, never skimp on the water column dosing)...


Not saying any way is wrong or this way is better than that way etc etc.


But tabs work well, PPS works well, EI works well, Dirt works well.... Options options options, each has their own pros + cons, I like giving posters options on different things.


IDK about you but 50% + WC's on 100+ gallon tanks are annoying, plus cutom RO mixing and DIY daily micro mixes is a lot for newer hobbyist to take in.

where as 3 x weekly water column ferts plus a tab or two per large rooty plant every 1-2 months with smaller 30% WC's seems a lot more doable plus easier on the wallet (within reason).
Yeah for sure, I mean I'm Not them lol, not even remotely close, I mean I honestly could sit down and learn how to do everything they do but I would have to read A LOT, but I'm also not sponsored so everything comes out of my pocket which i truly can't afford.
 
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