Im in urgent need of wisdom, please educate me?

[Jimboslice765]

To bring whomever is willing to help up to speed:
29 gal. aquarium, current water temp 78°f, walmart filter system for tank size, air pump, bubble bar with led for young daughter.
My aquarium has been operational with fish inhabiting for 2 weeks. In two weeks time ive lost 2 sm. angel fish, one silver dollar, one very small piranha(i have a 20 gal on standby for when new piranha grows) but first things first... The flipside to this is there are still other fish survivng 2 gourami(pearl and dwarf) one red eye tetra(lost one of these also) 1 bristlenose peco... Ive had a water test done twice high amonia was outcome I treated water with Prime after 2 15 gal. Water changes. What else can I do, payday is tomorrow im prepared to buy what is necessary for happy(ALIVE) fish... Please help

 

[bruinsbro1997]

to AA!

To bring whomever is willing to help up to speed:
29 gal. aquarium, current water temp 78°f, walmart filter system for tank size, air pump, bubble bar with led for young daughter.
My aquarium has been operational with fish inhabiting for 2 weeks. In two weeks time ive lost 2 sm. angel fish, one silver dollar, one very small piranha(i have a 20 gal on standby for when new piranha grows) but first things first... The flipside to this is there are still other fish survivng 2 gourami(pearl and dwarf) one red eye tetra(lost one of these also) 1 bristlenose peco... Ive had a water test done twice high amonia was outcome I treated water with Prime after 2 15 gal. Water changes. What else can I do, payday is tomorrow im prepared to buy what is necessary for happy(ALIVE) fish... Please help

Is the tank cycled? What are the levels of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates?
If you haven't read:
1.http://www.aquariumadvice.com/artic...-Guide-and-FAQ-to-Fishless-Cycling/Page1.html
2.http://www.aquariumadvice.com/artic...g-but-I-already-have-fish-What-now/Page2.html

Good luck!

 

[glassbird]

The good news for you is that the MOST important thing you need is free...knowledge. And you can get that here, in abundance! Read those links that bruinsbro gave you (especially the second page about cycling with fish) and get a solid understanding of the nitrogen cycle. Then go get a master test kit, and get to testing your water. Get NO MORE fish until you get your cycle done. Lots of people here will help you thru it, but we need real solid test result numbers to do it.

Also, do NOT ask for, or accept, any advice from fish store employees. They are there to sell you stuff. I am sure that many mean well, but most have NO idea what they are talking about. And if they see you come in with your cashed paycheck in hand, you will walk out with bottles and potions that you do not need and that WILL cause you problems.

Get a master test kit (pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), a bottle of Prime water conditioner, and a gravel cleaner (if you do not have one already), and nothing else for now. Set some money aside for a better filter...a walmart style filter is likely to be quite underpowered despite what the box says.

 

[siva]

You definitely need your own freshwater master test kit. Fish stores often use test strips which are inaccurate, and even if they use a liquid kit, I have more than once or twice watched them look at the results and turn and give the customer incorrect information. You want to be testing your water yourself, and consulting with other hobbyists if you need help from there and definitely not fish store employees. I'm sure there is some great stores out there that give good info, but I haven't found one. Yes the kit is expensive, but it will definitely pay itself off by reducing fish loss. There isn't much that can be done until you know those exact parameters, except for continuing partial water changes.

I'm no piranha expert, by any means, but it's my understanding that, depending on the species, one adult needs 40 gallons or more, so you may want to reconsider that fish if 20 gals if all you can provide.

 

[Jimboslice765]

Thank you very much for your immediate response, and support. I will pick up the prescribed materials, and I look forward to being a neighbor in this community...

 

[Deckape]

Thank you very much for your immediate response, and support. I will pick up the prescribed materials, and I look forward to being a neighbor in this community...

Great attitude. We will help as much possible.

 

[Jimboslice765]

Ive read the above publications from the above links... More questions... What is the collective view on the bacteria in a bottle? Ive also inquired this evening about a filter with a wheel that introduces active bacteria into the aquarium, good idea? Also if you would provide me a list of products, brands etc.. That would be useful... Im not content with my heater because of lack of a thermostat... I thoroughly enjoy this hobby... Its peaceful, and I look forward to a stable environment for my new pets...

 

[Deckape]

Ive read the above publications from the above links... More questions... What is the collective view on the bacteria in a bottle? Ive also inquired this evening about a filter with a wheel that introduces active bacteria into the aquarium, good idea? Also if you would provide me a list of products, brands etc.. That would be useful... Im not content with my heater because of lack of a thermostat... I thoroughly enjoy this hobby... Its peaceful, and I look forward to a stable environment for my new pets...

My vote on the bottled stuff is not to waste your money. Beg for some used nasty filter media or gravel from an established tank. That is , in my humble opinion, the best! Do you have your parameters for the water yet? We can't help you easily without those numbers.

 

[foster53]

As far as filters go I personally don't think you can beat an Aqua Clear. they are one of the best filters on the market. Once they are up and running you don't have to buy replacement filter cartridges like most other filters require. For heaters,I like the new Aqueon Pro. Very dependable and fairly accurate, I am currently using about 50 of them with very good luck.

 

[Deckape]

As far as filters go I personally don't think you can beat an Aqua Clear. they are one of the best filters on the market. Once they are up and running you don't have to buy replacement filter cartridges like most other filters require. For heaters,I like the new Aqueon Pro. Very dependable and fairly accurate, I am currently using about 50 of them with very good luck.

As for hang on the back (HOB) filters are concerned, I agree 100 percent that the Aqua Clear are the gold standard. I had a used Aquatech from Walmart and the thing quit on me. I will only replace my Aqua Clears with a Fluval or Hagen Canister filter but no time soon. I have Aqua Clear 50 and 70 on my 55 gallon. No carbon, one sponge in each, blue filter material on top of that and the bio ceramic pebbles on top of everything. If I could do it over, I would have used two 70s instead of the 50. I have no issues with this set up.

 

[siva]

I have many Aqua Tech, Aqueon, and Aqua Clear HoB filters around and the Aqua Clear's are definitely the way to go. I've never had more problems with faulty filters as I have with the Aqua Techs, so I would avoid those. I have shopped around and Amazon.com is the way to go for the Aqua Clear's...they sell them for dramatically less than my local PetCo does, and I haven't found a better price on any of the other sites I order supplies from. You could continue to run the filter that came with the tank along with an AC 50 but the hood may need modification to fit both filters. Or you can scratch the original filter and run an AC 70. If you want to go all out, a canister filter such as the Fluval 305 would be absolutely ideal for your tank. Amazon is also the best place to buy the Fluval's.

I've heard many hobbyists swear by Tetra Safestart and another I believe by BioSpira..or something like that...but I don't have personal experience with them.

I love my Aqueon and Hydor heaters. For decent deals on heaters you can check both Amazon.com and fosterandsmithaquatics.com.

You have a really awesome attitude and it's a pleasure to have you as part of the community!

 

[Jimboslice765]

The plan as of 6am. After work im off to buy:
Master test kit
Ac 70 or fluval 305
Make and attempt on geting some used aquarium materials...
Heater

Anything im forgeting, or additions to make my little sea world better???

 

[Mogurako]

The plan as of 6am. After work im off to buy:
Master test kit
Ac 70 or fluval 305
Make and attempt on geting some used aquarium materials...
Heater

Anything im forgeting, or additions to make my little sea world better???

Jim that sounds like a great plan, I am happy to see that you are learning so much already.

If you're 29 is on a stand and you have the room under it i would go with the Fluval 305, great canister filter for the money. I would also pick up some prime water conditioner and a thermometer if you do not have one already.

To get some seeded filter media I would go to a local mom and pop fish store vs a chain. They aren't always willing to give it away but throwing a couple of bucks their way tends to help.

 

[IvanMike]

yeah.

Buy the fluval or aquaclear from amazon or thatfishplace or another online place - don't go spend twice as much at a store today. Those filters are better than what you have, but they're just as "virgin" while yours already has a start. The actual mechanical filter media in the filter you have is slowly building up a bacterial colony that eats ammonia and nitrite (actually one kind of bacteria converts poisonous ammonia into poisonous nitrite, and another converts poisonous nitrite into relatively harmless nitrate). When you get the aquaclear or fluval in the mail, figure out a way to "stuff" the mechanical filter media in the aquaclear (plenty of room for it) or in the fluval in the stead of carbon. The semi (or fully) established bacteria colony from yoru old media will continue to do its work and quickly spread to the aquaclear/fluval media.

If you can find someone with an established (healthy - no sick fish) tank near you what you want is a piece of their mechanical media to stuff into your filter and/or a small handfull of gravel from the bottom - this gravel will have a good deal of good guy bacteria on it too. You can put this into the toe of an old or new nylon stocking (or into the little nylon booties they have free at payless shoes). Wash the nylon first (no soap, just water), stick the gravel in, tie it off, and stuff this into your filter in the path of the water (make sure you're not making the water overflow onto your floor - this can take some finnese and use of less gravel). This will also help. Maybe you can even get a pet store to give you a bit of gravel from an active tank or a chunk of filter media from one - anything you get should go in a baggie with half tank water half air and rushed home to be put in the filter.

Another thing to buy besides the test kit NOW would be a good supply of water condioner/dechlorinator (unless you have well water and are SURE there's no chlorine in it) and a siphon hose (with a gravel vac attachment if you can find it - if not, this is not a biggie - yet), and a clean (no soap used in it ever as far as you know) bucket. I think the orange ones at home depot are safe, but i'd rinse it a bunch. You're going to want to do a lot of partial water changes while you're waiting for the tank to cycle with fish in it. During a fishless cycle you want the ammonia to get high. In your case, this will kill the fish so you want to be changing 25-50% of the water every day to remove a bunch (i've even done this twice a day when the test kits showed really high NH3). Try to match the temp in the aquarium as best you can - (you can do this by feel -water out of tap vs old water in bucket). Whenever changing water UNPLUG THE HEATER and only plug it back in after the water is all back in the tank - (plugged in heaters get VERY hot in air and shatter when new colder water hits them).

All that sounded like a lot - but it really isn't. You're on a quest to find some live bacteria, a good master test kit, water conditioner/dechlorinator, and water changing materials. This is more of a wild goose chase than $$ intensive. Dont' worry about PH or anything else except ammonia and nitrite when testing right now.

Also - don't feed the fish (not even a little) until ammonia and nitrite read 0. (Don't worry - they can take it, and the more food - the more ammonia). Good luck - In two weeks or so you should be set (much faster if you can find some media or gravel to stuff in your filter).

 

[Jimboslice765]

You guys have been soooo awesome. Im gonna leave work a little early so I can catch the cool guy at the mom and pop fish sore.. Im pretty sure I can score some gravel and maybe even some filter material, I got him to price match a,filter thanks for amazon tip... Ill get it started and get back on tonite thanks again

 

[Jimboslice765]

My local fish guy came thru I have gravel from the fish shop, master water test kit(wow expensive for a couple little bottles : ) ) gravel vacuum and a bucket... I ordered the heater and filter... You were sooooo right the fish store and oil companies have the same market strategy crazy expensive... Anywho im testing water now and will share the results shortly

 

[Jimboslice765]

Well more bad news lost two more red tale shark and a bug eyed gold fish only 4 left: (

 

[Jimboslice765]

Ok my friends what steps do I take from here??? Ive recorded in my notebook the following water test resultsi might be over critical of the color chart)
PH- 8.2ppm
Ammonia- 0.5~1.0ppm
Nitrite- 2.0~5.0ppm(chart jumps from 2 to 5 I believe the purple wasnt quite 5 but darker than 2)
Nitrate- 20ppm

 

[Deckape]

Ok my friends what steps do I take from here??? Ive recorded in my notebook the following water test resultsi might be over critical of the color chart)
PH- 8.2ppm
Ammonia- 0.5~1.0ppm
Nitrite- 2.0~5.0ppm(chart jumps from 2 to 5 I believe the purple wasnt quite 5 but darker than 2)
Nitrate- 20ppm

You my friend have a tank that is not cycled yet. Refer to the article about fish in cycles. For now get your prime , siphon and bucket. You need to keep ammonia and nitrites at .25. Higher numbers are causing your problems. Its ok, we have all been there before. If you can't because of work or life, maybe consider rehoming your fish until its reading 0 ammonia 0 nitrites and only nitrates. We will talk you thru any questions you may have. But that article written by HN1 is your best resource right now.

 

[siva]

Do a massive water change. Drain as much as you can while still leaving the fish room to move until it get's filled back up. Double dose the new water with Prime.