Bristlenose Plecos Safe for Planted Tanks?

[Bettafanatic]

I've had a serious algae outbreak in my new 38 gallon planted tank. Hair algae, brown and green, all over, including on the plants' leaves so I'm afraid eventually the algae will suffocate them. I have some trapdoor snails in there but they're not keeping up with the algae growth very well and they're not producing enough ammonia to cycle the tank.

I was thinking that if I get a bristlenose pleco it could help with algae cleanup and I can use it to cycle the tank. My question is will bristlenose plecos eat my plants? And will it help take care of my algae problem?

Additional Info:

38 gallon tank
Two T5HO bulbs 39W each
Eco Complete substrate
Pressurized CO2 supplementation (although the cylinder's empty gotta refill it)

Plants:
-Amazon swords
-Dwarf anubias
-Cryptocoryne undulata and wendtii
-Java fern
-And planning on getting java moss

The tank is currently cycling and nitrites had just begun to rise but I had it drop to zero for the snails. However the snails aren't producing enough ammonia to cycle the tank. I'd use the pleco to cycle too.

 

[GodFan]

Your light is way to high for those plants! That may be part of the problem! However I would say go for it with the BN! Great fish just be sure you read up on fish in cycling if you have never done it!

 

[Rivercats]

Your lights are way too high right now. You need to go down to running one bulb for 6-8 hours max. None of the plants you have require high light.

The brown algae is most likely diatoms, which occurs in new tanks and will eventually go away on its own. Its caused mostly by excess silicates in new tanks. Adding some floating plants and possibly a plant like water sprite will greatly aid in mopping up excess nutrients in the water that the algae is using. Stem plants also grow fast and use the excess nutrients in the water. I would suggest getting a few nerite snails as they love diatoms.

As for a BN Pleco, they can help but they are not a cure all either. I would actually start another thread asking if its safe to use a BNP for cycling. I'm really not too sure it's a good thing to do.

Also remember not all algae eaters eat all types of algae and some algae isn't eaten by any type of algae eater. You need to correct the issues causing the algae or the problem won't go away and no amount of algae eaters will be able to keep up with it.

 

[Bettafanatic]

The lighting is only about 2 wpg. Is that still too high? What wattage would you recommend because I had lots of threads on this matter and everyone said about 2 wpg is good.

I have never done a fish-in cycle but I know exactly how to do it. I like to research in advance in case I ever need the info.

Oh you know what just did some research and a bsn won't eat hair algae. Darn.

Any other suggestions for algae control methods? I'll consider nerite snails

 

[Rivercats]

The WPG rule doesn't really apply with todays lighting options. 2 wpg of T5HO lighting is much higher than 2 wpg of the old standard T12. You might find this article helpful...
Aquarium Lighting; Reef, Planted Light Information. PAR, Bulb, Watt, Kelvin, Nanometers, MH, LED.

The one algae eater that I know eats hair algae is the SAE's (siamese algae eater). But you need to get them from a reliable source as many sell false SAE's and Flying foxes as true SAE's. I also know American Flag fish eat hair algae but know little about them, as I have never kept them. There is no snail that I know about that eats hair algae.

 

[aqua_chem]

We need either pictures of the algae in question or detailed descriptions to be able to give any useful advice, unfortunately.


Honestly guys, 2xT5HO isn't an unreasonable amount of light on a tank that size with pressurized co2. The tank running out probably had a significant impact on the algae growth. In this case, I'm thinking that underfertilization might be a major contributing factor as well.

 

[GodFan]

We need either pictures of the algae in question or detailed descriptions to be able to give any useful advice, unfortunately.


Honestly guys, 2xT5HO isn't an unreasonable amount of light on a tank that size with pressurized co2. The tank running out probably had a significant impact on the algae growth. In this case, I'm thinking that underfertilization might be a major contributing factor as well.

Normally I would agree however all of the OPs plants are low light.

 

[jetajockey]

Low light plants typically grow better with higher light/ferts/co2. I personally define the low/med/high plants as meaning they will grow in those light levels, but are not restricted to them by any means.

As far as the 2xt5ho thing goes, it's a toss up. It doesn't specify fixture brand or height, both integral factors in determining light levels.

 

[GodFan]

Low light plants typically grow better with higher light/ferts/co2. I personally define the low/med/high plants as meaning they will grow in those light levels, but are not restricted to them by any means.

As far as the 2xt5ho thing goes, it's a toss up. It doesn't specify fixture brand or height, both integral factors in determining light levels.

But plants can only absorb so much light. If he ran it with one bulb I think it would help with algae.

 

[jetajockey]

If it were me I'd manually remove all algae and get the co2 running immediately. A tank running pressurized co2 and one without are two different animals. If the co2 is not going to be used anymore then at that point I'd look at and adjust light /ferts as needed.

 

[aqua_chem]

The idea of "low light plants" isn't necessarily the best way to think about it. "Low light tolerant" is a much better description. It's like describing betta as a "small tank fish". While yes, they might do ok in circumstances that are less than optional for fish in general, they will still do better in more ideal circumstances. I've seen almost all of the plants he listed in high light tanks, and they do fine. One of the most amazing java ferns I've ever seen was dead center under a MH.

As far as what Jeta said about reflectors, I generally just assume that most reflectors are only moderately effective, and I'm very rarely incorrect. People that put the money into getting Tek or Icecap reflectors generally feel inclined to mention it.

 

[Bettafanatic]

Wow lot's of different opinions. Now I don't really know what to think.

While this algae is still in my tank, I'll only use one bulb. Once it's all gone I'll go back to two. I'm completely broke right now so I don't have the money to buy a new, weaker fixture or bulbs. I have to save up for some stuff for my bird, which is the main priority right now.

I'm gonna get the co2 tank refilled ASAP. I only use a little co2, i'm not sure about the exact level but it's not an endless stream of bubbles going through the bubble counter.

As for the algae, the color of the algae growing on the plant leaves is brown and the strands are very, very long, a good five inches each or so. I've been trimming it back. The algae on the glass and rock is green and much shorter so it looks a little like grass. The trapdoor snails have been eating it all so far, mostly the green, but they're not keeping us well. And I have no other money to buy any more snails or anything.

I think what I will do now is manually remove as much of the algae as I can, as Jetajockey suggested, and then hope the snails will keep back anything else that keeps growing. I can go do that right now, actually. Good strategy?

And what's a good fish for cycling? I was planning on adding cory catfish first once the cycle was done, but since I've got the snails I can't do fishless. Should I get the cories to cycle with?

 

[jetajockey]

To help illustrate what I mean about different fixtures putting out different levels of light, this chart (along with that entire thread is a wealth of collected data to help determine a particular fixture's light output.

Lighting an Aquarium with PAR instead of Watts

As with most things, you'll get varying opinions, just do your research and act accordingly. With cycling, it just depends, I would choose the hardiest of fish that I planned to stock and use them.

This article goes over planted tank cycling a bit, so it may help you.
Fish-in Cycling: Step over into the dark side - Aquarium Advice

With co2 you need to get a drop checker and 4dkh reference solution to maintain an accurate and steady co2 level in the tank, it's essential when trying to maintain a balance to outcompete algae.

Cutting back on light is always my first go-to when I have an algae issue in a tank that I cannot adjust the co2 level on.

 

[Bettafanatic]

I'm going to get a drop checker soon. That's on my list of stuff to get. What's a good brand? Or do they all work the same?

As for fish, I guess I'll add some zebra danios first as I was planning on having this fish anyways. Read your article and it's very good and informative. Your guidelines for cycle stocking seem good, but since danios are schooling fish should I go with six anyways? Or just get 3 or 4 for now? I was also planning on mollies, and I was gonna get less of those, so should I add the mollies first?

The brand of light fixture I have wasn't included in the chart, I'll look up how much PAR it has.

 

[aqua_chem]

What brand is it?

 

[jetajockey]

The biggest difference I've seen in output between fixtures is reflector type, the kind that have individual mirror-like reflectors put out a lot more light than the ones that share a single reflector.

You'd be fine to do a small school of zebras to start out with.

One thing to think about also is that if you are getting nitrite readings at this point then there is/was some ammonia present, so the biofilter is already being established. During the nitrite phase I usually maintain a low level of salt in the tank to reduce nitrite toxicity to the fish. It doesn't have to be much, just a tsp/5gal is what I go with, and it seems to be enough IME. That concentration has not had any adverse effect on salt-sensitive species that I've seen, nor has it harmed any plants that I've kept, although I do not maintain that level indefinitely, as soon as the nitrites are gone I just phase it out with WCs.

 

[Bettafanatic]

The light fixture is Zoo Med

Okay so I'll get four zebra danios this weekend and when the cycle's done add another two to have a nice school.

I think I'd do water changes every three days or so, or whenever ammo or nitrites get to high. And I'll see if I can get some salt too but I'm really broke right now. I'm gonna have to beg my mom to buy the fish for me. And she's already ticked at because I managed to run out of money halfway through gathering all the supplies. That should be fun...

I have some established betta tanks with two filter pads so I'll just take out the old ones. I was in the middle of switching because the old were falling apart, so I'll just use those to help with the cycle.

 

[GodFan]

Hey Jeta I cant figure out this whole par thing. I dont see it on the box when I buy a bulb and it throws me off anyway.

 

[CatatonicBug]

Plecos and snails are rarely a solution for algae. They do eat it, but only a tiny bit. I've had a BN in my tank, and he hardly touched the algae. The only fish that I've ever had any luck with are the actual "algae eaters". Those tiny little fish are like little window washers!

 

[GodFan]

Plecos and snails are rarely a solution for algae. They do eat it, but only a tiny bit. I've had a BN in my tank, and he hardly touched the algae. The only fish that I've ever had any luck with are the actual "algae eaters". Those tiny little fish are like little window washers!

What is the scientific name for that algae eater?