Underfiltered?

[joebrez]

Good afternoon, I have a question about filtration. I have a 75G Freshwater that is completely cycled. For filtration, I’m using a single SunSun-HW-302 (which it rated for up to 75G). It has 3 “baskets”, the bottom is the coarse filtration (Blue), middle is Fluval Bio Tubes and the top is while floss.


I due weekly 10-15% changes including a sand vac, additionally I condition with API Stress Coat +.

It is a fairly planted tank with White Sand substrate and 5 “medium” size pieces of Mopani wood.


For fish:
· 1- mature Angel
· 2- German Blue Ram
· 1- Candy Stripe Pleco
· 1 -remaining Otto from a failed school from old talk
· 2 – Mystery Snails, one is new, one is from my old tank and is huge
· 2- Fairy Ciclids (supposedly farm raised, supposed to be more tolerant to Neutral water, and they have been very healthy looking and active)
· 2- Australian Indigo Rainbows.
· 4- Serpae Tetras (2 of them were “taken out” after I saw them fin nipping the Angel, circle of life right)
· 1- Kluli Black Loach (to help stir the sand.)


My water is consistently clear (although slightly tinted due to the tannins of the Mopani) and water is has been right on the money for the last 4 months or so.

Before my last water I tested the water with the “Master Kit” and I showed .025 of Amm. And Nitrite. Strange, cause my Bio load hasn’t changed other than the 2 Serpaes being killed by the Angel. Tank seems happy.


Took my water to the LFS and they used those strips and said my water seemed fine (I don’t trust those things).


Two Question:
1. Am I under filtered?


2. Powerheads…
a. Where do you install them?
b. Do you aim them at the intake at the filter?
c. Are you just creating current?
d. Should they be at the bottom or at the surface?


I’ve done searches and can’t seem to get a clear cut answer to my questions!!!


I’m not new to the hobby, but am newer to a tank this size. My previous were 29G & 30G tanks with HOB 400 Emperors.

 

[Link119]

Instead of a powerhead, i think an aquaclear 70 is better because its cheap and it will help in zeroing out your ammonia level.

 

[joebrez]

Instead of a powerhead, i think an aquaclear 70 is better because its cheap and it will help in zeroing out your ammonia level.

Ok, so I am under filtered...

 

[Link119]

I would say so since you have some ammonia. It is never a bad idea to have a backup filter too in case the sunsun decides not to work.
Also, you should be changing at least 25% of the water weekly, 50% is better.

 

[joebrez]

I would say so since you have some ammonia. It is never a bad idea to have a backup filter too in case the sunsun decides not to work.
Also, you should be changing at least 25% of the water weekly, 50% is better.

37 gallons of water a week???

 

[Link119]

Believe it or not!

 

[joebrez]

Believe it or not!

I'm a newbie to big tanks, but small ones are typically fine with 10-15 weekly and/or 25-30 monthly.

If I decided to do another canister Instead of hang on back, would do you in series or parallel?

 

[Mumma.of.two]

How many gallon per hour does it cycle? 264gph? If so then it's fine.
Reasons you could be seeing slight ammonia are the canister needs cleaning, the substrate needs vacuuming, there is a fish body or some plant decomposing or the chloramine in your tap water is registering on the test. I agree with the above poster. You need to up the water changes per week. 10-15% won't be cutting it IMO.

 

[joebrez]

How many gallon per hour does it cycle? 264gph? If so then it's fine.
Reasons you could be seeing slight ammonia are the canister needs cleaning, the substrate needs vacuuming, there is a fish body or some plant decomposing or the chloramine in your tap water is registering on the test. I agree with the above poster. You need to up the water changes per week. 10-15% won't be cutting it IMO.

The reason why I question it is I've never heard bigger number for weekly changes as bet practices. As a matter if fact, I've read that over 25% weekly changes can stress the fish out. I've never changes that much water in YEARS of fishkeeping.

If I take into consideration decorations, plants And substrate, I'm probably doing 15-20%

 

[joebrez]

I just came back from a local guy (specialist, not big box), and my kit is screwed.

My water tested at 0,0,5

 

[GodFan]

Good afternoon, I have a question about filtration. I have a 75G Freshwater that is completely cycled. For filtration, I’m using a single SunSun-HW-302 (which it rated for up to 75G). It has 3 “baskets”, the bottom is the coarse filtration (Blue), middle is Fluval Bio Tubes and the top is while floss.


I due weekly 10-15% changes including a sand vac, additionally I condition with API Stress Coat +.

It is a fairly planted tank with White Sand substrate and 5 “medium” size pieces of Mopani wood.


For fish:
· 1- mature Angel
· 2- German Blue Ram
· 1- Candy Stripe Pleco
· 1 -remaining Otto from a failed school from old talk
· 2 – Mystery Snails, one is new, one is from my old tank and is huge
· 2- Fairy Ciclids (supposedly farm raised, supposed to be more tolerant to Neutral water, and they have been very healthy looking and active)
· 2- Australian Indigo Rainbows.
· 4- Serpae Tetras (2 of them were “taken out” after I saw them fin nipping the Angel, circle of life right)
· 1- Kluli Black Loach (to help stir the sand.)


My water is consistently clear (although slightly tinted due to the tannins of the Mopani) and water is has been right on the money for the last 4 months or so.

Before my last water I tested the water with the “Master Kit” and I showed .025 of Amm. And Nitrite. Strange, cause my Bio load hasn’t changed other than the 2 Serpaes being killed by the Angel. Tank seems happy.


Took my water to the LFS and they used those strips and said my water seemed fine (I don’t trust those things).


Two Question:
1. Am I under filtered?


2. Powerheads…
a. Where do you install them?
b. Do you aim them at the intake at the filter?
c. Are you just creating current?
d. Should they be at the bottom or at the surface?


I’ve done searches and can’t seem to get a clear cut answer to my questions!!!


I’m not new to the hobby, but am newer to a tank this size. My previous were 29G & 30G tanks with HOB 400 Emperors.

Depending on your gph you could be ok. And 10-15% per week should be fine. You are not heavily stocked. However I would recomend changing your stock list alittle. You have some schooling fish that sound lonely lol

 

[joebrez]

Depending on your gph you could be ok. And 10-15% per week should be fine. You are not heavily stocked. However I would recomend changing your stock list alittle. You have some schooling fish that sound lonely lol

Lol, the schooling fish are from my old tank, they lost some buddies in the transition to the new tank. I'm hoping to complete the Cichlid transformation in time, but did't want to just get rid of them, which is why I haven't gone very aggressive yet!

 

[Mumma.of.two]

Glad you got to the bottom of it.

The reason many suggest large weekly water changes is because high nitrates isn't the only problem in a tank. TDS (total dissolved solids) can build to dangerous levels in a tank over time. This is called old tank syndrome. Fish in tanks suffering from this have gradually become accustomed to the amount of TDS. Replacing larger amounts of water weekly helps remove the TDS and replenish minerals needed for plant growth, fish health, the beneficial bacteria and a stable pH. High TDS and the lack of certain things cause the water chemistry of the tank to be dramatically different to that of the source water (well, tap, etc). That is why small changes are recommend as to not stress the fish. But... if large amounts of water are changed out every week the tanks water chemistry is pretty much identical to that of the source water. I regularly change out 50-75% of the water in all 7 of my tanks.

Not that I'm suggesting that your tank has high TDS or that there is a problem just explaining the thoughts of many.

 

[joebrez]

Glad you got to the bottom of it.

The reason many suggest large weekly water changes is because high nitrates isn't the only problem in a tank. TDS (total dissolved solids) can build to dangerous levels in a tank over time. This is called old tank syndrome. Fish in tanks suffering from this have gradually become accustomed to the amount of TDS. Replacing larger amounts of water weekly helps remove the TDS and replenish minerals needed for plant growth, fish health, the beneficial bacteria and a stable pH. High TDS and the lack of certain things cause the water chemistry of the tank to be dramatically different to that of the source water (well, tap, etc). That is why small changes are recommend as to not stress the fish. But... if large amounts of water are changed out every week the tanks water chemistry is pretty much identical to that of the source water. I regularly change out 50-75% of the water in all 7 of my tanks.

Not that I'm suggesting that your tank has high TDS or that there is a problem just explaining the thoughts of many.

No, I get it. This tank has only been up for a little over 6 months including the long fishless cycle.

50-75% a week on 7 tanks? I have to ask, what is your water bill like?

 

[Mumma.of.two]

We get a certain amount of water per quarter included in our rates. I think last quarter I payed $6.50 more than usual. We also have a tank for rain water to water the gardens (which I don't do lol). The electricity to run all those tanks is quite costly though.

 

[joebrez]

We get a certain amount of water per quarter included in our rates. I think last quarter I payed $6.50 more than usual. We also have a tank for rain water to water the gardens (which I don't do lol). The electricity to run all those tanks is quite costly though.

Is the rain water ok for fish? I collect it for my garden, but figured the inconsistent quality of the rain water would be bad for fish.

 

[Mumma.of.two]

It can be as long as the minerals are added back in with the use of a product like seachem replenish or Kent's ro rite. Without them the pH can crash and stall the cycle.