I am pretty excited. I ran across a good deal on a 125 gallon reef ready tank, cabinet, wet/dry sump, sand, rock and even an Asfur Angelfish. My dilemma, is I don't want to use bio balls. I would like to get rid of them but I do like the idea of a refugium for macro algae and copepod reproduction. Also I need to use this sump. Although it was a very good deal, it tapped my extra funds for a while. The sump is an "L" shape if you lay the L on its back. The short leg sticking up is where the water flows in from the tank. It has a drawer for floss media of some sort, a compartment (doesn't look like it opens) for the bio balls, then the water drains through a small compartment with some type of hard sponge filter into a larger compartment which I assume is where I put my skimmer and heater before it returns to the tank. Any suggestions on revamping this sump to use with no bio balls?
125 used tank and sump
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It also came with a light but he had FOWLR and it isn't a very good light. I am going to mount lights in the canopy as I am going to have some corals in it. Also I am going to replace the pump with a stronger one then it currently has for better circulation.
Jmkb02
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Well you could just pull all the balls out, and shelves and then just let it work as a simple sump. Add live rock for filtration and put your skimmer where it normally goes. That would prob be best bet for now. Another option is to just use it as a wet/dry until you can build a sump or Fuge out of a tank. I ran a wet/dry on my 90 for about a month until I finished my sump for my predator tank. Fish only tanks will do fine with bio balls, I wouldn't keep it for long run purposes tho. They like to produce nitrates over time.
The fact that they like to produce nitrates is why I don't want to use the bio balls. Is there any reason it wouldn't work as a sump long term? I plan only putting live rock in the tank already. I have about 60 lbs in my 45gallon. I'll probably have close to 200 lbs in this one.
Jmkb02
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Well with it being an L shape, the water level is going to depend on the shorter end. You are losing space and water volume. If you were to pick up a tank that could still fit in the stand, and then add some baffles, you would benefit much more from that. It's just much easier and if you wanted to add an auto top of or any media, you have a steady water level as well to work with vs most wet dry sumps, there is already a main baffle, so you will lose water height from both sides of the sump. Post a pic of yours and maybe I can help on that...
I'm not home right now. I will try to get my son to send me a picture or I'll post one when I get back. Basically the water drains into the sump into a drawer that has floss or filter media in it. This drawer has holes in it and then drains into the chamber with the bio balls. From there it drains into a lower (empty) chamber and flows over a short wall into a small chamber that has some type of hard sponge similar to styrofoam stuck between the two walls (baffle maybe?) and from there into the larger, deeper chamber that houses the return pump, skimmer heater, uv filter, and a phosban reactor. Not a picture but hopefully a better explanation.
That also brings me to another question. I've never used a phosphate (phosban) reactor. This aquarium acquisition came with one. What is its purpose and how does it work. It has some type of electrodes on the container. Do I need it if I use RO water?
Jmkb02
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Sounds like a standard wet/dry sump. I was asking for a pic to see if I could help you possibly convert it to a normal sump with little work.
A phosban reactor is for phosphates. It helps keep them down so corals will thrive. They don't do well with phosphate in the water. You can run several different types of media in them, I personally like Gfo. You would add the amount for your total water volume, then turn the flow up to allow water to have a little tumble to it at the top. It then goes back into the sump. Very easy and effective. Yes with ro/di water it is still needed, phosphate is a byproduct from feeding and fish waste.
I realize that a photo would be helpful. 
however i am out of town for the next couple of days. I was hoping to get my son to send one to me but he isn't home yet. I will post one ASAP as I would like to get this up and running this weekend
however i am out of town for the next couple of days. I was hoping to get my son to send one to me but he isn't home yet. I will post one ASAP as I would like to get this up and running this weekend
Jmkb02
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Ha! Love how that usually happens...
Anyway, on that last section where the pump and everything else goes, an option would be to add two baffles in order to allow the water to stay at a level height, then be filled on the other side...
I'm better at just drawing it.
The black is what you have, the red is what I would add obviously the blue is the flow of the water.
Ha! Love how that usually happens...
Anyway, on that last section where the pump and everything else goes, an option would be to add two baffles in order to allow the water to stay at a level height, then be filled on the other side...
I'm better at just drawing it.
The black is what you have, the red is what I would add obviously the blue is the flow of the water.
That seems simple enough. Just leave enough room in the new section for the pump and line back to the aquarium? Also, I don't know if the bio ball area actually opens. It has a small slot at the top but I don't think it's a drawer. If that's the case, no way to put large live rock in there. I've seen live rock rubble either advertised or at a lfs. I'm assuming that would be just as good? Or should I take a piece of live rock and break it up? No way to incorporate a refugium into this is there? I like the idea of macro algae and growing my own copepods since I have a Mandarin Goby.
Jmkb02
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Exactly, measure it and see how much you need, give yourself a little more and your good on the return line. If the bio ball area doesn't open, break it! Lol
I don't think you'll be using it for that anymore anyways, but it should open for cleaning purposes. Maybe it's just stuck. There really would be no way to incorporate a Fuge. Not really enough room. You could just get a 10 or 20 gallon tank, split the return and have it on a flow regulator. Then just put it higher than the other tank and let the overflow into your existing sump through a drilled hole and let the return bring up the water...
I would look to eliminate the DIY wet/dry and go with something much more fail safe tho. For my 135 I have a 6 foot 90 gallon Fuge/sump and its able to do everything I want it to and more. I have a media section, a 3 foot Fuge, a live rock sections and the return. You can custom build a Fuge for little money. My 90 total cost is around 40 dollars in glass and silicone and I got the tank for free on Craigslist. 15 in gas and its a done deal. I cleaned the crap out of it and resealed all the glass and water tested it, but it was well worth it. Much better to go that route for long run purposes.
Jmkb02
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Well yes, one way to do it would be to purchase an additional 10 gallon or so, split the return with a flow regulator so you can control the volume going in. Drill a hole and put a bulkhead in, the let that overflow into your sump, to be returned to the main display. It really something that I wouldn't do for myself, but I have seen it done where it works in others tanks.
I'm on the way to the angels game right now, but I will draw another pic later if you want...
Like I said tho, I would just buy a larger tank, and do it right. It gonna save you more money and effort in the long run.
Angels game! I'm a Braves - Red Sox girl myself. ? But a drawing would be awesome. If you don't like fugues what's your thought on Copepoda for gobies? Just buy them several times a year? I have one Mandrian Goby in my 45 now. I added a bottle of Copepods a week ago but idk how long they will last with the other fish in there. Enjoy the game!!!
Jmkb02
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Red Sox! Oh man! I don't think I can help you out anymore!!!
If you were to do something like this, it may take a little ingenuity... You'll need to first split the return and put a regulator on it in order to only allow a low flow through the Fuge. Then you'll need a baffle or have someone drill a hole on the top depending on how you want to do it. I prefer how I drew it only because it helps keep the cheato rotating without becoming an issue to the flow. Also having the Fuge higher than the sump is important so that there is a gravity pull on it and your not having to sync another pump or deal with that at all. Hope this helps as well, but like I said, I wouldn't keep it like this. Use this as a temp bc it is not fool proof and leaves a lot of room for error. It's more worth it to do it right first and cheaper as well. Let us know how it goes
Jmkb02
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Sorry loaded the wrong pic
All the red would be an add on to the existing pic I sent you (which is in black)
And you will need to drill a hole in your tank for this. Talk to some peeps at your lfs or see if you can find a glass shop if you don't wanna do it yourself.
All the red would be an add on to the existing pic I sent you (which is in black)
And you will need to drill a hole in your tank for this. Talk to some peeps at your lfs or see if you can find a glass shop if you don't wanna do it yourself.
