aqua_chem
Aquarium Advice Addict
Maybe try moving the intake to the other corner? You should get some bulk flow through there like that, and your taller plants will help hide it a little more.
26g Bow Front - My First Dutch Inspired Scape Journal
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Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yeah I thought about that. But unfortunately, I would have to buy new hoses since I cut them to size and they barely stretch to their current position. In order for me to switch sides, I would have to get the hoses to crisscross in the back OR I would have to turn my canister backwards.
Where the outflow is now, however, I like how the long slender leaves of the H. Augustofolia and C. Helferi waver in the current. I already ordered the Hydor Koralia, so I'll see if that ameliorates the issue.
Edit: I suppose if the Hydor doesn't perform as excepted, I'll buy some new hose and try your suggestion Aqua_Chem. Thanks!
Where the outflow is now, however, I like how the long slender leaves of the H. Augustofolia and C. Helferi waver in the current. I already ordered the Hydor Koralia, so I'll see if that ameliorates the issue.
Edit: I suppose if the Hydor doesn't perform as excepted, I'll buy some new hose and try your suggestion Aqua_Chem. Thanks!
I use 2 of those Hydro's in my 220g and really like them. I would also say position 1 so you have a cross current that should meet and cause even more mini currents.
I'm not too fond of the new "improved" white connectors either! Not the smartest thing they've done I have to say.
I'm not too fond of the new "improved" white connectors either! Not the smartest thing they've done I have to say.
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
I had a flow problem in my tank and decided to split the canister outputs instead of adding a pump. It worked beautifully. I have a spraybar and a nozzle output from the one canister and no dead spots. I would've gone with the Hydor too if that hadn't worked out. Position one would be ideal.
DanTheGuppyMan
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yeah- the canister on my 60g came with a 4 foot long spray bar as the output so along the whole back wall was a spray bar but since it was so long it had almost no current so I replaced it with a Fluval FX-5 output nozzle with the 2 directional nozzles and it has much more current and I can move each nozzle to the direction I want so I don't have many dead spots along with the koralia nano in the other corner of my tank...
CorallineAlgae
Aquarium Advice Addict
DanTheGuppyMan said:
I wish the Rena canisters came with a multi-directional output nozzle. That's such a nice option to have. The Rena nozzle is blue which I dislike. Maybe I need to check if I can order the Fluval parts to change mine out.
DanTheGuppyMan
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yes I was lucky that the fluval output nozzle fit on my aquatop output tube. I got mine from Amazon for $7 I think.
aqua_chem
Aquarium Advice Addict
My concern is that you'll have too much movement with the Koralia. They are nice circulators, but you need to consider that you'll have extra 240 gph on top of whatever your canister is putting out. It's an awful lot for a 28g.
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Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
You make a valid point. I'll just hope for the best and test it out. If its indeed overkill, I'll look for another solution and just keep this pump for another project one day.
To help dissipate the strength of the current, I'm going to place the Hydor towards the back in position 1 in my diagram. Because it's towards the back, it will run into a lot of my taller stem plants to create resistance. Well, that's what my imagination can conjure up in simulating it...LOL
I just hope it's not too strong in that area that all my plants will be titling to the right. We'll see... I did see a smaller hydor pico circulation pump
Amazon.com
which was another option i was considering...
Or... I'll take your suggestion and flip the intake and outflow by buying new hose. But my only apprehension about this is that I'll be just moving the dead spot to the other side...
This video makes it appear that the hydor koralia that i ordered isn't that insanely strong.. I know that there's a big difference in size from my aquarium, but estimating the distance in which he pans the camera to where i see the plants sway, it appears to be manageable. So it kinda sold me.
To help dissipate the strength of the current, I'm going to place the Hydor towards the back in position 1 in my diagram. Because it's towards the back, it will run into a lot of my taller stem plants to create resistance. Well, that's what my imagination can conjure up in simulating it...LOL
I just hope it's not too strong in that area that all my plants will be titling to the right. We'll see... I did see a smaller hydor pico circulation pump
Amazon.com
which was another option i was considering...
Or... I'll take your suggestion and flip the intake and outflow by buying new hose. But my only apprehension about this is that I'll be just moving the dead spot to the other side...
This video makes it appear that the hydor koralia that i ordered isn't that insanely strong.. I know that there's a big difference in size from my aquarium, but estimating the distance in which he pans the camera to where i see the plants sway, it appears to be manageable. So it kinda sold me.
aqua_chem
Aquarium Advice Addict
I'm all for you trying it out. I have used a Koralia in a 40B to great effect before, and it was just right. However when I tried using the 425 it got a little intense in some places.
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Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Well i got the Hydor Koralia and installed it. I do think i would prefer a slightly reduced flow rate (yes Aqua_Chem, I hear an "I told you so" Haha). Although, it's not too bad of a current, i don't like some of my stem plants tilting to the right, my Tetras aren't schooling as tightly, and I'm sure the Angels aren't thrilled. However, the Angels do know to avoid that area...
I was considering sending it back and getting the Hydor Pico 180gph, but it's not black and the cost is a bit more... So I'd rather not. Perhaps there are DIY methods to tame the flow a bit on the 240? Like using a window screen mesh? Or maybe putting the pump on a timer so that it will add extra circulation to the dead spot area for just a few hours a day?
Any thoughts, suggestions, or comments?
Here's a quick video so you guys can see the added current. Good or bad? Haha
I was considering sending it back and getting the Hydor Pico 180gph, but it's not black and the cost is a bit more... So I'd rather not. Perhaps there are DIY methods to tame the flow a bit on the 240? Like using a window screen mesh? Or maybe putting the pump on a timer so that it will add extra circulation to the dead spot area for just a few hours a day?
Any thoughts, suggestions, or comments?
Here's a quick video so you guys can see the added current. Good or bad? Haha
bevoholic
Aquarium Advice Freak
Maybe you could find some black sponge and cut it to fit inside the outflow right after to impeller blades. It could be just enough to reduce the flow a bit.
I have the same PH in my 20g high and I'm really liking it, but I too would like a slightly reduced flow.
I have the same PH in my 20g high and I'm really liking it, but I too would like a slightly reduced flow.
Actually Brain my plants pretty much look like that in the 220g. I recently replaced my Fluval FX5 due to not being able to lift it like I used to with 2 Fluval 406's. So I'm running 4 Fluval 406's and two 240 Hydro nanos' spaced out pretty evenly across the tank so I get pretty much flow. Your space is just smaller so it's more evident. I think I'd try covering the intake slats with something to slow it alittle and see how the plants do that way. Or try aiming it up towards the surface if you don't have CO2. It took some playing with mine to get them to do what I wanted.
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Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
^^ Thanks for the input guys... I'll just let it be for now and assess the Hydor's effectiveness. The fish have gotten used to it and have reverted back to their normal behavior. I guess I was jumping to conclusions about it too early. But I'll still consider possibly reducing the flow through some DIY method.
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Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Update -- 8 Weeks (58 days) Since Planted
So far so good. The Finnex Ray 2 has proven to me to work on a taller tank to grow plants. However, plants that usually turn red under intense light (i.e. Rotala colorata, Rotala rotundifolia, Limnophila aromatica, and Ludwigia glandulosa) are failing to do that here. I'm still going to explore if the culprit is not the lighting and has something to do with the nutrients. Or, if the plants just need to grow taller to be closer to the light. However, I have the Ray 2 on my 6g with the same PPS-Pro dosing regime and, I believe, due to the closer proximity from light to substrate, my plants have no issues showing their colors in this tank. Overall, I'm still pleased with this light -- especially being an energy efficient LED one at that!
Here's a time-lapse side-by-side pic of 8 weeks of growth. I changed the Fluval 306 stock parts that are white, particularly the intake stem and the light grey rubber connectors, with the (older) 305 parts -- a much better improvement IMO.
And more tank shots (multi-angles)
So far so good. The Finnex Ray 2 has proven to me to work on a taller tank to grow plants. However, plants that usually turn red under intense light (i.e. Rotala colorata, Rotala rotundifolia, Limnophila aromatica, and Ludwigia glandulosa) are failing to do that here. I'm still going to explore if the culprit is not the lighting and has something to do with the nutrients. Or, if the plants just need to grow taller to be closer to the light. However, I have the Ray 2 on my 6g with the same PPS-Pro dosing regime and, I believe, due to the closer proximity from light to substrate, my plants have no issues showing their colors in this tank. Overall, I'm still pleased with this light -- especially being an energy efficient LED one at that!
Here's a time-lapse side-by-side pic of 8 weeks of growth. I changed the Fluval 306 stock parts that are white, particularly the intake stem and the light grey rubber connectors, with the (older) 305 parts -- a much better improvement IMO.
And more tank shots (multi-angles)
DanTheGuppyMan
Aquarium Advice Addict
Thats awesome!i love time lapses like that..I love your tanks oh, BTW, my AS came today! I'm excited and yeah, the little nanos have a lot of power to them huh? I faced mine towards the wall and it still gets the current going just right to not disturb my angels
oh, BTW, my AS came today! I'm excited and yeah, the little nanos have a lot of power to them huh? I faced mine towards the wall and it still gets the current going just right to not disturb my angels 
Magicmarymac
Aquarium Advice Freak
Update -- 8 Weeks (58 days) Since Planted
So far so good. The Finnex Ray 2 has proven to me to work on a taller tank to grow plants. However, plants that usually turn red under intense light (i.e. Rotala colorata, Rotala rotundifolia, Limnophila aromatica, and Ludwigia glandulosa) are failing to do that here. I'm still going to explore if the culprit is not the lighting and has something to do with the nutrients. Or, if the plants just need to grow taller to be closer to the light. However, I have the Ray 2 on my 6g with the same PPS-Pro dosing regime and, I believe, due to the closer proximity from light to substrate, my plants have no issues showing their colors in this tank. Overall, I'm still pleased with this light -- especially being an energy efficient LED one at that!
Here's a time-lapse side-by-side pic of 8 weeks of growth. I changed the Fluval 306 stock parts that are white, particularly the intake stem and the light grey rubber connectors, with the (older) 305 parts -- a much better improvement IMO.
And more tank shots (multi-angles)
So beautiful, thank you for sharing.
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Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Thanks Dan and Magic!
Dan.. I'm waiting to see this ADA AS in action in your build!
Dan.. I'm waiting to see this ADA AS in action in your build!
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Brian_Nano12g
Aquarium Advice Addict
Okay... I need help wrapping my head around this...
So despite the growth in plants that I'm getting with the Finnex Ray 2 at 18" distance from light to sub, I believe the 'medium' light intensity is affecting my plants (such as the Rotala colorata, R.rotundifolia, Ludwigia glandulosa, and Limnophila aromatica) from coloring up. This bothers me because I intended this tank to be somewhat "DUTCH" inspired in the scape... What good is it Dutch if not full of color other than green? LOL...
I dose PPS-Pro, which the micros (I believe) have about 7% iron and the Flourish tabs have iron as well (don't know how much).
So it was suggested that I add more iron to get these plants to color up in their reds or whatnot. I'm a little confused by this because some of these same plants are in my smaller tanks and have no problem coloring up -- which I believe is due to shorter distance from light to sub.
Well, my questions are: do I need to add more iron? Does adding more iron compensate for a PAR reduction from distance? Or do I just need to add another fixture along side the Ray2 to increase intensity??
Thanks everyone!
So despite the growth in plants that I'm getting with the Finnex Ray 2 at 18" distance from light to sub, I believe the 'medium' light intensity is affecting my plants (such as the Rotala colorata, R.rotundifolia, Ludwigia glandulosa, and Limnophila aromatica) from coloring up. This bothers me because I intended this tank to be somewhat "DUTCH" inspired in the scape... What good is it Dutch if not full of color other than green? LOL...
I dose PPS-Pro, which the micros (I believe) have about 7% iron and the Flourish tabs have iron as well (don't know how much).
So it was suggested that I add more iron to get these plants to color up in their reds or whatnot. I'm a little confused by this because some of these same plants are in my smaller tanks and have no problem coloring up -- which I believe is due to shorter distance from light to sub.
Well, my questions are: do I need to add more iron? Does adding more iron compensate for a PAR reduction from distance? Or do I just need to add another fixture along side the Ray2 to increase intensity??
Thanks everyone!
Billbug68
Aquarium Advice Addict
Now this is only a guess, but if it was the light, wouldn't the tops be red and the lower parts green? I'd have a go at the extra iron first. Much cheaper than buying a second fixture.
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