Algae solutions

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NorCalAl

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
May 6, 2006
Messages
41
Location
Paradise, CA
Hey all, after three planted tanks and some real serious algae problems, I think I have it down now.
First off, (and all of this is from my experience, ymmv) I think one of the prime things we do wrong (and one of the main causes of the algae) is that we introduce too much light, too soon. That, coupled with the introduction of nutes (ever looked at seachems site for dosage recommendations? they have a chart suggesting dosing everyday. crazy for a new tank!), especially in a new tank (less than six months old) is a certain recipe for a good thick algae soup.
I've had bba, hair, you name it.
So, the first thing is - DON'T introduce too much light too soon! Wait for the cycle to complete and then, no matter how strong the temptation, wait 6-8 more weeks before blasting up the light. All in all, I've started three physical tanks, but I've started them time and again now to determine cause and effect and solutions. So, start out with low-light and low-light plants. About four months into a tanks life, then you can start upping the light.
Second, should you already have the issue, there's four things I've found that simply work wonders. By this, I mean I've allowed tanks to get to the point where the plants are dying for lack of light due to algae growth. I've had rocks/driftwood so covered, you'd wonder if it was moss or algae! In other words, lots o' algae!
Here's the four things (and you've heard them all):
1) otos. they are really wonders for getting started on the problem. They aren't THE solution, but they are PART of the solution. I've used from .5 to 3 per 10 gallons and the ration of 1 to 10 seems to work very well.
2) proper nutes including nitrogen. Again, not the solution, but part of the overall one.
3) many plants. We all know and have heard they'll suck up the food before the algae does, once they are in numbers. It's true. Again, by themselves, not much help but as part of the solution they are invaluable.
4) a bristlenose plec!!! My goodness! The latest test tank, my 29g, had a thick coat of algae on every decor item. He stripped them in a week.
Which brings up the last item: TIME.
You gotta have some patience. Nothing solves the problem like time. Using the four items above and using time, it will be solved. Two weeks is the longest I've gone from inundated to liveable. And three to nearly clear.
Will this work for all situations? I'm not sure. I've not had every situation. But my testing shows it works very well for new tank (less than six months old) algae issues.
You know, I read back over this post and it seems we've all seen this before. All these things. I've used combinations of the items with less than great success. I've had time on my hands, obviously. :)
But I usually see, just try this or just try this. That was one of the reasons I did the specific testing. If anyone has any comments, they are welcome!
 
There's only one thing that I see glaringly missing from that list. If you've got high light, you need to make sure that you are not only injecting CO2 but at sufficient levels.

I recently had a whole string of algae problems in my tanks. When I finally got around to testing my CO2 levels, I was shocked to find that they were much lower than normal. Looks like it was a combination of a change that I had made to the waterpump to make maintainance easier and dropping temps lowering DIY CO2 generation. Combined these were a recipe for maddening algae problems.

I think that it is possible to run high light from the beginning, but you definately need to make sure that everything is in place (lighting, CO2, and Nutrients) and you definately need to start out planting densely with lots of fast growing stem plants.
 
NorCalAl,

I appreciate your position but feel that it is not accurate. High light without proper nutrients is a definate recipe for disaster, but can most definately be done without problems. I will agree that most people go out and purchase the fantastically expensive light system and then wonder when they are cultivating algae instead of plants, but that is not the lights "fault".

The sticky titled "beginners mistakes" or something similar covers this in detail. The fact is a tank can be setup with NO bacteria present and be a successful planted tank with high light, if and only if, adequate nutrients are supplied from the beginning. This is rarely the case in all but the most seasoned planted tank members.

There is a method for dosing known as EI or estimative index that was developed to combat algae and fert dosing problems. Many members on this site have used it (I have not but I dose in a similar way) with great success. It uses the idea that an excess (within reason) of nutrients is not harmful as long as there are no deficiencies. Generally in planted tanks carbon and potassium are the two most common deficiencies because neither is naturally found in a tank in large amounts. This does not play a role normally in low light tanks since water changes and fish waste will provide adequate levels, but in moderate to high light situations, you run into problems.

The EI method (and correct me if I'm incorrectly describing this) uses a set dosing schedule of every day (or maybe every other day) dosing most of your macro and micro ferts, with a large PWC at the end of the week so that you get excesses to a lower level (this prevents having a gross overfertilizing of one fert).

Again I have not used this method, but many members have reported curing many of the algae problems in their tanks.

#1. completely agree, Oto's are incredible

#2. completely agree, but would disagree with not monitoring and adding at the beginning of a new planted tank

#3. agree, a ton of nutrients and light with very few plants can definately cause problems

#4. I would love to get one of these guys, as I have some BBA in the tank that I would LOVE to get eaten instead of fighting with different removal methods!
 
I would add #5, SAEs....I have found that these guys do a better job than both the otos and the BNs combined (I've had all three in the tank at the same time). I lost all my otos and the tank still looks great. I think the BNs are great for the driftwood, glass and large, flat leaved plants like swords, and the otos and SAEs tackle the fine leaved plants and the nooks and crannies the BNs can't reach.

I started off with high light (192 watts PC on a 55 for ~4 wpg) right away and had no problems except that I didn't add nutrients soon enough and got algae....but once I got my levels balanced and my cleanup crew in there, the tank was fine. If I were starting over and added everything at the right time I wouldn't expect to have many problems. I never saw any kind of cycle at all, no NH3, no NO2, and I've been adding NO3 since (almost) the start. I added fish slowly and still no measurable NH3/NO2 ever. It is definitely doable but for a total plant newbie I agree that starting with low light until you get the hang of the whole dosing/testing/CO2 thing is a smart idea.
 
I can't believe I forgot the SAE's. I have four in my 65g and they were essential. I shoulda edited my original post and added them!
 

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