Another CO2 question

[NigelK8485]

I run it for a few days after wc, sometimes I forget and it's on 24/7... just wasting bulb life and electricity is all..

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I have read it decreases bulb life if you're constantly turning it on and off. Better to just leave it running.


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[Bichir Bro]

Turning it on/off a lot will for sure wear it out at a big rate but leaving it on at all times ain't too hot for it either...


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[NigelK8485]

Turning it on/off a lot will for sure wear it out at a big rate but leaving it on at all times ain't too hot for it either...


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I don't know, everything I read states they are designed to be constantly turned on. Turning off and on can burn out the cathodes while if left constantly on with water flowing through they don't overheat. As far as making the bulb last longer, left constantly on it's supposed to give 9,000 hours before needing replaced, so a year without needing to replace seems pretty good to me. I think it also depends on what you're trying to do with it. If you're using it to clarify then there's no point in letting it run 24/7, if you're using it to sterilize then there's a reason to let it constantly do its thing.


I've only had mine a month though, so if it needs replaced before next year I'll report my findings here.

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[mrvincent]

Hi, I'm running CO2 for more than a year.

You need a cylinder, a CO2 regulator, wich will bring the pressure down from 1000PSI to 15-25 PSI.

After this you need an electric solenoid valve, so you can plug it on a timer. You need a needle valve for CO2 flow fine tuning.

Also you need a bubble counter to mesure the flow.

On that you absolutely need a basic CO2 drop checker, you need the bromotymol blue chemical to put inside, and a controlled 4dKH° solution. This is the way it work.


This is a video of my tank, so you can see how it works a bit... (Look at 1:35)

 

[mrvincent]

Also, the fluval CO2 dissolver is the best I found for my setup.

When you CO2 inject, don't run a HOB filter or airpump. Canister is the best, I found in my case injecting CO2 in the canister intake is the best.

 

[Fresh2o]

Also, the fluval CO2 dissolver is the best I found for my setup.

When you CO2 inject, don't run a HOB filter or airpump. Canister is the best, I found in my case injecting CO2 in the canister intake is the best.

MrVincent - In this case, you are using the canister as the CO2 reactor? Any drawbacks from doing this (bubble build up in canister, pH affecting BB, etc)?


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[mrvincent]

Yes, initially I was thinking about an inline reactor, but ended using the canister as reactor. I started with a fluval HOB filter, this messed with the CO2 levels, ungazing the water. So I've switched this filter for an Eheim 2213, wich I've read before it's one of the best filter to tolerate airlocking. Then I've put my Fluval on my reef aquarium.

- PH affecting BBs: If never had ammonia spike, that mean no problemo ?
- Build up in canister: Yes, but no airlocking. Only some noises and bubbles coming out of the canister output from time to time... Non dissolved CO2... But I get a good dissolve at all.
- Decreasing canister impeller life span; I never had to replace it.

The only problem I get, is that I know I don't get a 100% dissolve, but I can confirm a lot dissolve according to my drop checker. I can raise the levels enough that the drop checker reads yellow, maybe I could go to red, but don't want to mess with my precious live stock.

Also, it's a heavy planted tank, with a powerfull lighting system, so I guess it's working, as I have no algae even if the light is so strong.

 

[NigelK8485]

Yes, initially I was thinking about an inline reactor, but ended using the canister as reactor. I started with a fluval HOB filter, this messed with the CO2 levels, ungazing the water. So I've switched this filter for an Eheim 2213, wich I've read before it's one of the best filter to tolerate airlocking. Then I've put my Fluval on my reef aquarium.

- PH affecting BBs: If never had ammonia spike, that mean no problemo ?
- Build up in canister: Yes, but no airlocking. Only some noises and bubbles coming out of the canister output from time to time... Non dissolved CO2... But I get a good dissolve at all.
- Decreasing canister impeller life span; I never had to replace it.

The only problem I get, is that I know I don't get a 100% dissolve, but I can confirm a lot dissolve according to my drop checker. I can raise the levels enough that the drop checker reads yellow, maybe I could go to red, but don't want to mess with my precious live stock.

Also, it's a heavy planted tank, with a powerfull lighting system, so I guess it's working, as I have no algae even if the light is so strong.

Why did you decide against the inline reactor?


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[mrvincent]

Why did you decide against the inline reactor?
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I ordered an inline reactor on amazon, waited 1 months, never recieved it. I got refund, but decided to not wait anymore.

Also I read they tend to clug... There's lot of different inline reactors, some involving a electric powered pump, also this increase the number of hoses connections, wich increase the change of get a flood.

Decided to the safer, easier way, sacrifying a bit of dissolving power. But I don't care, I setuped my 10 pounds CO2 system there's 1.5 year, and never had to refill it.

 

[NigelK8485]

Whoa you've never refilled your 10lbs cylinder in a year and a half? How big is your tank?



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[mrvincent]

Nah, I tought I'll have to refill it after a year initially, but it seems not.

That's a 29g tank. Initially, by injecting with the fluval diffuser directly to the display, this was taking tons of CO2 to get green reading on drop checker.

But now injecting to the canister intake, I can dose something like 1.5 bubbles/seconds. for 5-6 hours/days.

By putting the cylinder on a weight scaler, you can know how much CO2 still in it by substracting the total weight to the tare weight (written on the cylinder).

As you can see on this more recent picture, this is a huge heavy planted tank

 

[NigelK8485]

Nah, I tought I'll have to refill it after a year initially, but it seems not.

That's a 29g tank. Initially, by injecting with the fluval diffuser directly to the display, this was taking tons of CO2 to get green reading on drop checker.

But now injecting to the canister intake, I can dose something like 1.5 bubbles/seconds. for 5-6 hours/days.

By putting the cylinder on a weight scaler, you can know how much CO2 still in it by substracting the total weight to the tare weight (written on the cylinder).

As you can see on this more recent picture, this is a huge heavy planted tank

Awesome looking man. And you're using the spraybar on your Eheim filter?


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[Brookster123]

Note.. my inline does make noise! It has bioballs binging and bopping around in there. It does not bother me or my gf though.. just a background noise at worst.

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[mrvincent]

Awesome looking man. And you're using the spraybar on your Eheim filter?

Yes I do use it, the flow is going horizontally, not aiming at the water surface. I get tiny surface agitation, but not so much... Just look on the video

 

[mrvincent]

Note.. my inline does make noise! It has bioballs binging and bopping around in there. It does not bother me or my gf though.. just a background noise at worst.

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My tanks are really near the sleeping room (hmm the room where we sleep), so noise is problematic. I can tolerate the noise of my protein skimmer (on my reef tank) but no more.

 

[Fresh2o]

If you sleep at night (I did shift work at one time so that's not a weird statement) then the CO2 will only be on during lights on at best.
Brookster - Is the reactor making noise even without CO2 running through it? Maybe consider switching the bio balls with some pots rubbers.


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[NigelK8485]

If you sleep at night (I did shift work at one time so that's not a weird statement) then the CO2 will only be on during lights on at best.
Brookster - Is the reactor making noise even without CO2 running through it? Maybe consider switching the bio balls with some pots rubbers.


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I actually don't sleep at night, haha. I work overnight then go to school until late afternoon/early evening, noise doesn't bother me when I'm sleeping. There seems to be a halt in my plan though. Of course when I'm serious about buying the CO2 tank we have a huge snow storm and welders supply is closed.


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[mrvincent]

If you sleep at night (I did shift work at one time so that's not a weird statement) then the CO2 will only be on during lights on at best.
Brookster - Is the reactor making noise even without CO2 running through it? Maybe consider switching the bio balls with some pots rubbers.

Yes, the CO2 reactor will do noise even if the solenoid valve is OFF. (May depends on some models...)

In my case it's totally silent, even if CO2 is turned ON. I can sometime hear loud bubbles in the impeller, but it do it 10 secs / 15 minutes. It stop when CO2 is OFF.

 

[NigelK8485]

Finally got ahold of welders supply. Does this price sound okay? 10lb tank and first fill= $165. Refills after that are $11.95.



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[mrvincent]

I paid a LOOOOOOOTTTT more for a cylinder, but that's because of heavy shipping price, also I had to pay 60$ custom taxes

I couldn't know.

I think this is in the good price range... Let me check.

UPDATE:
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In the US, if you can locate a beer brewing store, you could get one for 100$ + the refill + tax.

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/tanks/co2/C10.shtml