Another Ick question...

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Also isnt this 14-16 PPT on the refracto??
12-14PPT I believe. Don't have mine here right now to check. :wink: I can verify that later for you.
Im going to bring the salinity down to 1.009 and leave it there for 3-4 weeks
At least 4 weeks, more would be OK. Fish can handle it for several months.
 
I think your right. Well whatever the PPT is, Im shooting for 1.009 to 1.010 which I think is the recommended amt if I am remembering right....I think i will go for 6-7 weeks as tearing all of the rock and such out of my tank was a PAIN!!! I have about 150 lbs of rock so I was putting some on the floor on towels, some in buckets of tank wtater, and some in the sump...was only out about 5-8 minutes but it was just the rock...no corals..ARG!!
 
i am sure people have thought of this, but i caught mine at night when they were sleeping and put them in the sump untill the next day when i could acclimate them to the QT. even the clown goby which always hides and sits in rocks and corals was no problem at night. i just nudged him out of a coral into a net with a smaller net. they were much easier to get out of the sump in daylight. the main during the day would have been very frustrating

good luck fishman, i am with ya right now
steve r
 
Steve
I turned my lights out and let the fish settle down. I did catch my clown very easily as he sleeps to where I could get to him. And even my regal was fairly easy. But my damsel and dottieback were CRAZY! They both swim all hours of the night. I can go in there at any point in the night and they are swimming. I have weird fish! But yes this is a good tip and probably works for most fish.
Today or tomorrow I have the task of putting my rock back together and arranging it. I was so tired last night that once I caught them all, I just started chucking the rock back in the tank and didnt care what it looked like! :mrgreen:
 
Steve
I now have all of my fish in my QT and they are doing well. I do have another question. Ok, so lets say that since one of the fish has shown signs of ick and thus the reason for putting them in the QT, after you lower the salinity to 12-14 PPT, then leaving it there kills the ick right? In other words I dont have to worry about doing anything else other than keeping it at the treatment level for 4-6 weeks and this kills the parasite? I guess I had read somewhere where you had to increase the temp to speed the life cycle up but I have not done this. I have kept the temp at 79-81.
Secondly when I get the level to 12-14 PPT, and leave it there, and say I want to do a water change. Do I just mix new SW to this level and take out the same amt I am putting back in as the new?
Thanks
 
fishman said:
after you lower the salinity to 12-14 PPT, then leaving it there kills the ick right?
It's not advisable to lower the salinity below 14 ppt, upto 16 ppt.

In other words I dont have to worry about doing anything else other than keeping it at the treatment level for 4-6 weeks and this kills the parasite?
4 weeks minimum at 14 ppt yes. You don't have to do much else except monitor water quality, especially alkalinity and pH. It's extremely important to check those daily a well as salinity.

I guess I had read somewhere where you had to increase the temp to speed the life cycle up but I have not done this. I have kept the temp at 79-81.
Leaving there is the best choice. Raising the temp does increase the life cycle some but the optimal temp for C. irritans is 86° so it doesn't accomplish much. It is inadvisable to manipulate the temp in any way. The main concern being the fish, not the parasite. Temp manipulation causes changes to the pH in the fish's blood reducing the immune response allowing for greater chances of secondary infection and further infestation while the treatment does it's job.

Secondly when I get the level to 12-14 PPT, and leave it there, and say I want to do a water change. Do I just mix new SW to this level and take out the same amt I am putting back in as the new?
Basically yes. Just be sure to check alk and pH as well and as before no lower than 14 ppt.

Cheers
Steve
 
Your right...sorry I cant keep the PPT numbers straight in my head. And yes Im checking the PH and AK. Im adding Kent Super buffer and I am checking the PH for sure. I guess I need to chk the AK as well but wouldnt both be up if I am adding buffer? What would I add to bring the AK up if needed?
ANd no Im not messing with the temp. Just trying to keep it stable.
What are the chances that I go through 6-7 weeks of hypo at these levels, no fish in my main, and then put the fish back in the tank and they come down with ick again?
Lastly, I have a velvet dottieback in the QT tank right now as one of the four fish. I noticed that some of his scales appear to be raised a bit??? Maybe they arent...just when the angle is right, it appears he might have the bumps? I assume this is just the ick popping up and they will fall off of him just like the others? My regal has shown no other bumps since going into QT is the reason I ask. Nor have any of the other fish. All are eating well too by the way.
 
Your right...sorry I cant keep the PPT numbers straight in my head.
My bad, I just looked at my refractmeter and it is 14-16 PPT. Out of sight out of mind I guess. :oops:
 
Steve/Quarry
Can one of u address the questions above Quarrys last post? Also 1.010 = 14PPT right? see my post at 4:31.
Thanks
 
What are the chances that I go through 6-7 weeks of hypo at these levels, no fish in my main, and then put the fish back in the tank and they come down with ick again?
I think that is your best chance of success.
Lastly, I have a velvet dottieback in the QT tank right now as one of the four fish. I noticed that some of his scales appear to be raised a bit??? Maybe they arent...just when the angle is right, it appears he might have the bumps? I assume this is just the ick popping up and they will fall off of him just like the others?
It may be, relax a bit. You are doing everything right. :wink: Without a pic its hard to tell.
I know you have your doubts. But you have made some proactive moves and I am confident it will work out for you. 8)
 
fishman said:
Im adding Kent Super buffer and I am checking the PH for sure. I guess I need to chk the AK as well but wouldnt both be up if I am adding buffer? What would I add to bring the AK up if needed?
A reef buffer will bring up both alkalinity and pH at the same time. The reason for checking both is if alk is low, pH can be influenced much easier by wastes and CO2. Maintaining the alk will help keep the pH stable.

What are the chances that I go through 6-7 weeks of hypo at these levels, no fish in my main, and then put the fish back in the tank and they come down with ick again?
Slim to none if done correctly. It is more than possible to have a parasite free tank. :wink:


Also 1.010 = 14PPT right?
Yes but if using a swing arm hydrometer target 1.009 SG.

Cheers
Steve
 
Well I did chk the PH and Ak and both are perfect. So this is all good. I am taking this porcess little slower than normal and have brought the salinity down from 1.026 to 1.013 over 2 days and will shoot for 1.010/1.009 tonight. Will leave there for 6 weeks I think.
Also Im using a refractometer so i wanted to make sure that 1.010 WAS 14 PPT.
Thanks
 
If using a refractometer just shoot for 14 ppt and keep it steady once there. Ignore trying to "translate" the numbers, it will just fuddle things up. AFAIK, 14 ppt is actually a little closer if not exactly 1.011 SG.

Cheers
Steve
 
Steve
I am a reading freak...I was just reading on other forums for SW info and they do mention hypo as a treatment, but not very effective. however, I did read an article presented by a major aquarium in KS I think and they QT all of their fish and do hypo on them for 6-8 weeks and even longer at 1.008 even. just fyi...
I assume you have done this before? How effective was it and what caused you to have to do hypo? Do you do only hypo or copper too? im just curious to hear your experience....just a short version of it at least
 
I have used both hyposalinity and copper but each has it's uses accordingly. If an early infestation, I prefer hypo (@14ppt) as it is well tolerated by most teleost fish as well as only marginally affecting the biofilter. If the infestation is advanced, copper might be a bit "faster acting" but I would only ever use Cupramine. It is the least stressful and more widely tolerated by the most sensitive of fish.

Salinities lower than 14 ppt are not necessary unless dealing with a variant, then copper would be required.

Cheers
Steve
 
Well I can only hope that I fall into the "normal" catagory in that I hope this is ick. Im sure it was/is. I have seen no other bumps since the QT began. I thought I would. I sure hope I dont do this for 6-8 weeks then put them all back in the tank only for this to happen...I know, relax!! :lol:
I assume after 5-6 weeks i will bring the salinity back up to ready them for the main tank again. I hope at that time that if something is still there, then it will reer its head again. If it werent for the regal having been through copper once before I would do copper...but I hate to do that again. Hope Im making the right decision.
Thanks for all the patience with me..
 
Steve/Quarry
Another question. It has been about a week to a week and a half and I have noticed no ick on any of the fish. However today I see about 6-8 spots on the tang. Is this normal? I didnt see any for over a week now?
If its gets really bad, and I decide to treat with copper, should I bring the salinity back up or leave it down? Its at 1.010 and all levels are good except for PH..its at around 7.8-8.0. Im bringing it up now. All of the fish are eating good.
 
However today I see about 6-8 spots on the tang. Is this normal? I didnt see any for over a week now?
Is you refractometer calibrated? Are they white? It may be a little scarring.

f its gets really bad, and I decide to treat with copper, should I bring the salinity back up or leave it down?
It shouldn't if your levels are right, but if you decide to go copper, you will need to get the SG back to normal levels first. Don't want to stress them too bad. Just make sure you raise it by no more than 1.001 per day.
 
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