Anyone else have problems with nitrite?

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If your talking about the grassy looking one that appears to be Dwarf Hair Grass which needs high light, CO2, and good macro and micro ferts.

Well that's good to know ahh! But the plant next to it, it has reddish/purple leaves
 
Could I move the grass into my frog tank and leave it next to a window? I was thinking about moving the fry and frogs next to window to produce some algae, for the fry and for the snails In my frog tank.
 
Are the leaf tops greenish and the undersides of the leaves maroonish? That's what it looks like to me. If so that is Alternanthera reineckii which needs medium light, at least liquid carbon such as Excel or Metricide 14, and good ferts.
 
Could I move the grass into my frog tank and leave it next to a window? I was thinking about moving the fry and frogs next to window to produce some algae, for the fry and for the snails In my frog tank.

Honestly the DHG will be an algae magnet there. If you want you can take one tiny clump and try some but don't hold you breath... lol!
 
How do I use ferts? And the co2? Do I have to unroot them and place the fert where I want them then add them? I obviously need to upgrade on my light. Hopefully they last while I begin the process of buying it!
 
Honestly the DHG will be an algae magnet there. If you want you can take one tiny clump and try some but don't hold you breath... lol!

I might try in the fry tank first incase it does get out of hand at least the fry will be fed!
 
How do I use ferts? And the co2? Do I have to unroot them and place the fert where I want them then add them? I obviously need to upgrade on my light. Hopefully they last while I begin the process of buying it!

Here is the fert info:

As for dry fert this $15 package is all you need and will last a couple years... http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/micro-macro-fertilizers.html.



You need 3 dosing bottles found at the bottom of this page... http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizer.html.



This is a good thread about dosing PPS-Pro. Only read the opening post not all the comments after it.... http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/pps-analysis-feedback/39491-newbie-guide-pps-pro.html.



There are two things I do different from the article. First I use 3 dosing bottles as I split the macro nutrients for better custom dosing to the needs of the tank. Nitrates in one bottle, phosphates and potassium in one bottle, and micro's in the 3rd bottle. The other thing you'll notice the recipe calls for using MgSO4, magnesium sulfate, which you don't need if you have hard tap water with a Gh and Kh of 4 or higher


You don't need CO2 unless you get much higher lighting but you can get Metricide 14 Day Solution, a gallon for about $27 shipped. Mix it at a 1:1 ratio with RO or Distilled Water and use at a rate of 1ml Glut (Metricide 14) to every 5g with the lighting you have. Once you upgrade lighting you'll need to increase to 1ml Glut to every 2 gallons of tank water. I kept a couple old Excel bottles from along time ago and use them to mix up the solution and store it. That way the bulk of the Glut can stay in the original container. Remember that liquid carbons have to be stored in opaque, totally light blocking containers since light breaks it down quickly. This is why you have to dose liquid carbons daily as the break down in a tank within 12-24 hours.
 
So I'm being given a 29 gallon not a 25. I'm thinking of doing the black gravel and tan sand like I wanted, would it be best to get the lights and ferts and replant the plants into the 29 gallon while it's cycling? I wouldn't add fish until I know the tank is fully cycled I will probably use some of the water from my 10 gal but really focus on a fish less cycle with that one.

Would you know how to deal with ammonia in a 2.5 gallon tank? I have 3 dwarf frogs and 2 nirite snails in it. I know the snails need to be moved but the 10 gal isn't ready yet. It's at .25 I know that's okay but it's not cycled and I don't know if it will. The tank has been up for over a month probably 2 now. Nitrites and nitrates are 0. I just did a 75% water change bc ammonia went up to .50

My fry tank is doing better ammonia is a little higher (.50) I know it's bc I added some when I changed their water but nitrites are down to .25 nitrates 5.0.

There is .25-.50 ammonia, high nitrites 2.0-5.0 and nitrates 10 in my 10 gallon. Do you think I messed with the bacteria when doing cleanings like I have been since ammonia is now present? I know it's not a lot and the bacteria probably didn't have time to eat it yet since I just did the change maybe an hr ago.
 
Really small tanks are actually hard to cycle! Just keep up on WC's to keep ammonia and nitrites down to .25ppm or lower. That's all you can do in a fish in cycle. Your 10g sounds like it's getting close to the end of cycling.

Now when you set up the 29g if you plant the tank heavily, I mean at least 80% of the substrate planted with some plants like Water sprite, Wisteria, Ambulia, any of the Hygrophila's, and some moss on DW your tank will actually cycle much faster. So I would plant right away, put a little bit of the floss media from one of the other tanks to jump start the cycle and between that and the plants your cycle could run though very fast. I had 14 angelfish in my 220 at 14 days as the tank was cycled because I planted about 85-90% of the substrate with fast growing plants.
 
I have an amazing idea for my tank and plan to have it as covered as possible with a variation of plants using the products you've suggested as well as ambient lighting :) I'll draw up and a picture of what I have in mind. I've also been doing research on plants from very easy to easy care just to play it safe since I'm working my way up.

I also read up on the rams and with them being sensitive my ph reads an easy 7.4 on ph and kh as gh have always been high. Kh around 80 and gh 180. Rams like a little more neutral ph I've read drift wood I believe can help Lower it but maybe I'm mistaken? Is there any items, decorative pieces or substrate to Lower the ph a bit? Again, I'm going to take my sweet time with this tank and properly care and nurture it to have the conditions that are acceptable for the fish and plants that will be living in it.
 
Thank you as well for the advice on the smaller tanks. I usually do a small change every other day but ammonia was a little too high and it makes perfect sense due to size and being a little overstocked.
 
Unless you get wild caught rams which you rarely ever see these days rams can acclimate to water with a higher gh/kh/ph. What is most important for them is to keep nitrates to 20ppm or lower. I try to run my planted tanks with nitrate around 10ppm but never higher than 15ppm.

Bogwood will really drop ph in a tank but also leach a lot of tannins into the water. I tend to use driftwood in all my tanks which can sometimes help soften water depending on the type of wood. I use minimal rocks. Plus if you use rocks be sure to do the vinegar test on them. Put a few drops of vinegar on the rocks and if they sizzle or bubble they will release buffers into the water which will raise kh/ph so I wouldn't use them. I don't tend to use a lot of rocks but that is just me.
 
I do want to add some rocks for the rams since they like to lay eggs on them but can't I purchase them at a local fish store? And for the drift wood where could I find some?
 
So things fell through with the 29 gallon :/ sadly but I will be going to inspect a used 20 gal today after work. It's a long like I wanted and comes with a stand all for 50$ do you think I might be getting poor quality with that kind of price? Or did I find a good deal?? I won't know the exact condition just yet, they're just trying to free up space so let's see!
 
Yes you can get them at a fish store but rocks like Texas Holey rocks are sold at fish stores and they raise ph/kh levels. Rams like smooth flat stones. They also lay in the substrate and often if you lay an Indian Almond leaf flat in your tank they will spawn on them. Dried oak leaves work as well BUT both will release tannins into the water which they like but will turn your water tea colored.

You should start a new thread "where did you get your DW from". A lot of members talk about where they ordered theirs own line. And often Pet shops/ Fish stores carry it.
 
So things fell through with the 29 gallon :/ sadly but I will be going to inspect a used 20 gal today after work. It's a long like I wanted and comes with a stand all for 50$ do you think I might be getting poor quality with that kind of price? Or did I find a good deal?? I won't know the exact condition just yet, they're just trying to free up space so let's see!

Check on line today to see the prices of a new 20g kit with stand also. Then you'll have an idea of new prices and can make a better assessment of whether it's a good deal or not once you see the condition of the tank, equipment, and stand.
 
I have been since I found out I wasn't able to get the 29. :( The cheapest 20 gal by itself is 32.99 in my area stands are super expensive as well :/ there are a few water marks but once I see it I will be able to deff tell. I was just wondering if that would raise a red flag for you. It is on Craigslist and I don't really ever use it to find stuff. Everyone else is asking 100+ for a 20 gal alone.
 
Yes you can get them at a fish store but rocks like Texas Holey rocks are sold at fish stores and they raise ph/kh levels. Rams like smooth flat stones. They also lay in the substrate and often if you lay an Indian Almond leaf flat in your tank they will spawn on them. Dried oak leaves work as well BUT both will release tannins into the water which they like but will turn your water tea colored. You should start a new thread "where did you get your DW from". A lot of members talk about where they ordered theirs own line. And often Pet shops/ Fish stores carry it.


How do I measure tannins in the water? What is it exactly?? And Is it harmful for other fish in the water?
 
What else you will need.

Plus, 5 or 10 Gallon water container, depending on space.
An airline from your air pump or a dedicated air pump. To aerate the mix.

That should keep you out of trouble.

Cheaper than RO, short term.
 
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