Benefits of CO2?

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That's a rude way to answer. Yes I do know actually. That's why I knew I would need a scale and RO water on top of the ferts. If you looked into the ingredients, a lot of them are the same in the tabs and Excel which is why I asked. If you are going to be rude then just don't answer and let someone else answer. You have done that a few times on this thread and I have been nothing but thankful and respectful to every answer to my questions.
 
That's a rude way to answer. Yes I do know actually. That's why I knew I would need a scale and RO water on top of the ferts. If you looked into the ingredients, a lot of them are the same in the tabs and Excel which is why I asked. If you are going to be rude then just don't answer and let someone else answer. You have done that a few times on this thread and I have been nothing but thankful and respectful to every answer to my questions.

No its not, you've had quite the audience yet you can't even repeat simple terms.. ppm pro?? Pps pro... I'm out.. big problems...good luck..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Aquarium Advice mobile app
 
No its not, you've had quite the audience yet you can't even repeat simple terms.. ppm pro?? Pps pro... I'm out.. big problems...good luck..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Aquarium Advice mobile app

Your response right there proves my point. Do you not see that? With quite the audience, yet you are the only one that responds the way you do. When you act aggressively, you will get the same response in return.

No I don't know as much about planted tanks as you do when it comes to CO2 and fertilizers. That's why I am asking all of these questions, because I care about the health of my fish. I take it seriously. That doesn't give you an invitation to act like that.

Keep in mind I am dealing with a sick fish, cycling tank, new equipment I am versing myself on, on top of running a multi-million dollar company that I built, and I am only 26. That is a lot to manage in one day, so excuse me for being forgetful sometimes.

Sorry for the rant. I take responsibility for that. But that is all I will say on the matter out of respect for everyone else on this forum. I welcome any advice from you in the future if you can be mature about it, but if not than I will just thank you for your previous advice and leave it at that.
 
Have you read any of the Barr Report articles I suggested?

I have, particularly in the Aquatic Plant Fertilization section, and the CO2 Enrichment section. I also read up on the thread created by Edward on Aquatic Plant Central about PPS-Classic and PPS-Pro.

A lot to digest in a short period of time but I believe I have the CO2 down. It is just the fertilizer I am stuck on. Do you mind giving your two cents on what fertilizer you do for your plants (forgive me if you already told me earlier)? Thank you.
 
Honestly, I was so overwhelmed by fertilizer options that I picked the one that is the least effort. I know there are better. I had been using API Leaf Zone and just recently started NilocG Thrive. 10 days in and my plants love it.

I'm really new to the high tech stuff, too. I've only been using CO2 for a few months. As I said earlier, my husband has effectively built our system. He just brought home these stainless steel Horiba mesh filter things for diffusers that are really cool. Anyway, as I also said earlier, sometimes he reinvents the wheel. With that, I've learned why some things are the way they are.
 
Could I get away with just dosing with Excel (with CO2 and light) for healthy plants, or do I really need PPM Pro? I just ask because it will be another $40 if I get PPM Pro with a scale and RO water.


I think your problem is that you are expecting there to be a one size fits all method when it comes to planted tanks (which is understandable being new) but there really isn't. The hardware and plants you choose will dictate the angle of approach.

I personally don't think there would be any benefit from splitting up the photoperiod. Although people do it with some success I don't think it is overly beneficial for the plants as they have some chemical processes to carry out as soon as they are illuminated before they can take up co2 efficiently so shine light on them then off leads to instability initially at least.

Again whether you NEED PPS pro or any other water column dosing regimen depends on the strength of your light, how many plants you add, the type of plants you add etc. So for the most part planted tanks are about eyeballing your particular set up and making adjustments based on what you see. There is no guaranteed success and we are or have had issues ourselves.

I would say that try it. Find out what is in your root tabs. Which nutrients and supplement that ones that are missing.

Learn about your source water. Is it hard or soft? Does it contain lots of a certain nutrient to begin with?

I have just switched to soil which has many benefits but I still supplement magnesium, nitrogen, phosphate and potassium as my light is strong and the plants need lots of them. Also my tap water contains very low amounts of magnesium.

Try to learn about what the plants need and where they can get their nutrition from. Feeding at the root as well as the water column gives you a greater margin for error. If you skip the PPS pro and your plants are doing well what about 3 months down the line when your plant mass is 3-4 maybe more times bigger? Will the plants still survive on just root Fertilisers?

Get your co2 set up and running, don't scrimp on plants. See how they get on then make decisions based on your observations.

If the light is too powerful can you put something over it to dim it or lift it up a few inches to reduce the strength? Lots of things you can do.
 
I personally don't think there would be any benefit from splitting up the photoperiod. .

The only reason I do is because the times I'm able to enjoy the tanks are far apart. I suggested it because abw was concerned about lights being on while he couldn't be there to observe.
 
Benefits to seista I belive to be are convience as nirbhao stated. I believe diy co2 or less than the standard 30ppm may have benefits. Or certain par levels with no co2. Or those that believe in the "sun burst". I would love to see more tests on this.
 
The only reason I do is because the times I'm able to enjoy the tanks are far apart. I suggested it because abw was concerned about lights being on while he couldn't be there to observe.


Yes this makes sense. I didn't read who recommended it just noticed how complicated the photo/co2 period was becoming. Doesn't need to be. I wasn't nitpicking.
 
Benefits to seista I belive to be are convience as nirbhao stated. I believe diy co2 or less than the standard 30ppm may have benefits. Or certain par levels with no co2. Or those that believe in the "sun burst". I would love to see more tests on this.


I'm running less than 30ppm. No issues at present.
 
Idk I may be nuts lol. I was sold on concept and have been rolling with it. I may be missing the boat. I was at around 15 now should be around 30.
 
Idk I may be nuts lol. I was sold on concept and have been rolling with it. I may be missing the boat. I was at around 15 now should be around 30.


I don't know what I have. I'm playing it by ear. I tried to pull the suction cup off my drop checker the other day and it just pulled a section of glass straight off it so it went in the bin.

The more and more I delve the more I'm finding that it's good to have additional co2 but how much is up for negotiation. Better for my fauna too.
 
I read some of Hoppys work. Where he had a chart of various ppm ranges vs growth. Id think with your par absolutely. My par not seen alot of difference between 15 and 30. But did see incredible difference in holding a consistent number. Not to open a can of worms. I run it 24/7.
 
I read some of Hoppys work. Where he had a chart of various ppm ranges vs growth. Id think with your par absolutely. My par not seen alot of difference between 15 and 30. But did see incredible difference in holding a consistent number. Not to open a can of worms. I run it 24/7.


I'm having to reevaluate a few things. At the moment I'm not sure co2 is as Critical as I originally believed. I'll post an interesting link in the toxicity thread. The more I look the more these similar cases appear.
 
A few cents late at night:


For ferts there are weekly dosing systems out there. What you dose in macros (phosphate, nitrates and potassium) will vary according to fish and plant mass. Fish will add nitrates and phosphates, plants will reduce nitrates, phosphates and potassium (plus micro ferts).


An API nitrates and phosphates test kit means you can keep an eye on those and adjust dosing to suit. Fast growing stem plants will show pinprick holes in lower leaves that will most likely be lack of potassium. Other plants may not have any potassium issues. So that broadly covers the ferts.


You will need a water column weekly-dosing ferts schedule drawn up and then adjust to suit. I started with one of the weekly ferts dosing systems off the web and over time have modified it based on plant/algae growth, fish health and test readings.


I aim for say 20ppm nitrates, 2 to 4ppm phosphate, high potassium and lean micro ferts dosing. It seems complicated and frankly I think high-tech planted tanks are complicated but after a few months or weeks, it will all settle into a routine. Probably the one thing I have learnt is that it does take time to get right and your ferts dosing does change over time as plants grow.
 
Good morning everyone,

I apologize for the delay in answering. Here are a few updates. I bit the bullet and bought GLA PPS-Pro fertilizer package, along with a bottle of Excel to mix with the fertilizer, and a scale. So I believe I will now be good for fertilizer.

Like nirbhao said, I would like to look at my aquarium when I am home, and also so I can feed the fish. I will most likely now have to feed them at night with the schedule.

Caliban07, your schedule of 12:00 PM to 8:00 PM does interest me, but I do have a few questions for you. In the morning, do you have ambient light come in, and does that mess up the plants/fish? I ask because, here (especially in the summer), the sun is up before 7:00 AM, and where the tank currently is, light will get in through the windows. In my new house, the aquarium will be in the living room so same issue. So the aquarium can potentially be exposed to 13 hours of some sort of light. Will that be a problem? Currently, with the lower light, the tank is on for 12-13 hours.

Just so everyone knows, I have Anubias Barteri, Dwarf Hairgrass, Crypt Wendi, Rotala Rotundifolia, and Salvinia Minima in the tank. The Salvinia Minima will naturally dim the bright lights a tad as it is a floating plant.
 
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Also, do all of you shut your CO2 off at night? Any PH fluctuations with that?



Injection of CO2 forces a ph drop. Ph will increase once CO2 leaves the system. This is as expected. On mine the ph starts at say 7.2 and drops to say 6.6 (at which point the ph probe closes the solenoid). If I discontinue CO2 the ph will rebound back to 7.2.

CO2 should be shut off at night when lights are off. See the paragraph towards end on natural ph fluctuations.

http://www.aquameds.com/articles/a-guide-to-ph-levels-in-your-koi-pond/
 
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That makes sense. Thanks for sharing that. So basically, no need to worry about PH fluctuations. I believe my tank normally is at 7.5 PH, but right now is 6.8-7.0 PH due to the new driftwood leaching tannins. I am actually glad the CO2 will drop the PH a little.

I was just worried if turning off the CO2 would cause a huge swing that is detrimental to the fish (trying to cover all of the bases here so I can minimize any surprises when everything is set up). Thank you!
 
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