Calgon take me away...

[jdsunflower]

Having struggled for what seems like forever with high pH (all premium brand liquid reagent test kits I had used), I just bought a new wide range pH I had never seen sold here before (went to a different store than usual). Low range pH test, my tapwater reads as way above 8 (off the chart, literally). With this new test kit, smack on 7. Which of these is actually more accurate??? Tank differences (with the pH adjuster, yes I know, I know) are the difference between 7.0 (low range test kit) and now below 6 (YIKES).

Help please, this problem is really wearing me down. If my tank pH is that low, it will taking for***ever to bring it up for the fish. And of course my co2 injection (tho minor) was making things worse if it is more accurately read as below 6....
I am losing it here on the ledge, to be honest with you.
And for those kind advisers on this site who suspected this all along, this really is the first test evidence to support the pH is lower than those other tests have suggested. And if the wide range kit is the most accurate I would be happy to say you told me so!

 

[Menagerie]

Let your tap water sit in a cup overnight and test it with the new test.
Where does the tank's pH test with the new kit? How long have you used the pH adjuster and how often? What fish are in this tank/or are you planning on?

 

[jdsunflower]

(planted) 40B tank has been established for about 3months, I have 5 black neon tetras, 2 corys, and 2 ABN in there. Just received my AquariumPlants.com plants (other than the dwarf sags which had melted all quality was excellent I must say) and popped them in about a week ago and started injecting small amounts of co2 (pressurized system). Lots of bogwood. Black flourite substrate.

The trouble has always been my pH, which every test to that time had shown to be high pH and low hardness below 2-3. I used to use vinegar, but it was too unstable in an unplanted tank, so I went to pH Adjuster down (about 3 weeks) and this has been much more stable. It is phosphate free, but does have sulfuric acid (!) in it, so not a preference, just a lack of options I suppose (neons were in pH 6 at lfs).

I did a 20% or so PWC yesterday in case the pH was set too low at 6 as it seemed from this new test (hoping it was 7 pH--what a relief it would be not to worry about pH! and I've read it shouldn't harm anything to add neutral water to a tank).

Everyone is well this morning. With the low pH test it looks like the water is 7.5 (that's a bigger change than I am really comfortable with) and with the wide range it's showing as 6.5. Should I be concerned about my plants having soaked in this 5.5-6 pH acid bath for weeks, if it was indeed below 6 (not to mention the fish!!)

I am leaning towards an electronic pH reader, as I didn't realize how different reagent test kit readings could be.

I like the above suggestion of testing after an overnight sitting. City water here does have chloramine, so it may be artificially reading high at first. As chloramine doesn't evaporate, I've never gotten into the habit of letting water stand. Thanks for the support and suggestions! I don't know anyone here who is into the hobby and it can be very isolating when I run into difficulties.
JD

 

[Purrbox]

I highly recommend getting one of the pH pen meters. They are very easy to use, and can read a much wider range of values. Further they aren't all that expensive. If I remember right, I was able to pick up a pH and a TDS for $25 shipped.

 

[gzeiger]

It isn't really possible to raise the pH past 7 by adding neutral water, as you noted. Tap water sitting out should be very slightly acidic due to dissolved carbonic acid, so if you didn't make any other adjustment between those two tests I would have to say that confirms an erratic reading of your kit(s).

 

[OasisKeeper]

If you get one of the inexpensive PH pens, be sure it comes with or be sure to get some calibration fluids and calibrate it often. Also, you'll have to learn to be patient when reading the pen, as they can take a minute or two to stabilize their reading.

On a more general note, try to keep in mind that PH is a indicator of one condition of your water. Not the end all, be all of water condition and not something that necessarily must be tightly controlled down to the tenth.

Consistency is important. Even, maybe particularly, during water changes. I always kind of cringe when I see people recommending large percentage water changes. These are fine, of coarse, as long as the new water is close to the old or reintroduced slowly so as to allow the fish time to adjust. The presumption for those using tap water is that the tap is always the same. Unfortunately, this is not always the case.

Consistent water quality is among the most difficult and challenging aspects of the hobby.

 

[jdsunflower]

Well I am sold on the pH pens as a start.
Re water changes, I check temp and pH every time I add any water, because of the difficulties I've had making sense of pH readings. Still, it's an important point.
Thanks for your support.
Oh, and I think I need to focus much more on the water hardness, to buffer that wiggly pH if nothing else. This fits in well with wanting to provide better nutrition for my plants.
Monique