Fishless Cycle

[fddlss]

Hahaha! I added 2 PPM instead of 1 this morning (unintentionally), but that's not a big deal... Let's see if by tonight the levels are 0 PPM. Already looking at which fish to buy. I want big, colorful fish, so I think male Malawi haps is a good option to consider.

 

[fddlss]

Final conclusion of my cycle: it takes about 22 hours to drop 4 PPM of ammonia to 0 PPM and about 37 hours to drop more than 5 PPM of Nitrites to 0. I'm now adding between 1-2 PPM of ammonia every 24 hours to fed the bacteria while I don't add fish. Today, ammonia dropped from 2 PPM to 0 in about 8 hours or less and nitrites dropped to 0.25 in about 14 hours after adding 2 PPM of ammonia this morning. I will check in about an hour, it should be 0 PPM by then, so 15 hours for nitrites to drop to 0. I didn't have time to day but I will do a PWC tomorrow and another big PWC 24 hours before adding fish, I think I will be getting my first fishies sometime next week. I posted a topic with pics from algae or fungus that I've seen on my tank, specially before starting the cycle and right when it was completed.

 

[eco23]

Final conclusion of my cycle: it takes about 22 hours to drop 4 PPM of ammonia to 0 PPM and about 37 hours to drop more than 5 PPM of Nitrites to 0. I'm now adding between 1-2 PPM of ammonia every 24 hours to fed the bacteria while I don't add fish. Today, ammonia dropped from 2 PPM to 0 in about 8 hours or less and nitrites dropped to 0.25 in about 14 hours after adding 2 PPM of ammonia this morning. I will check in about an hour, it should be 0 PPM by then, so 15 hours for nitrites to drop to 0. I didn't have time to day but I will do a PWC tomorrow and another big PWC 24 hours before adding fish, I think I will be getting my first fishies sometime next week. I posted a topic with pics from algae or fungus that I've seen on my tank, specially before starting the cycle and right when it was completed.

Try adding only 1ppm ammo and see if you can avoid seeing nitrItes at all... Unless you dose it up high, the nitrItes should ideally remain at 0. I could track my ammo to nitrAte transition when I added up to 4ppm, but if you only add 1ppm, I'd like nitrItes to remain virtually nil. What's probably happening is that your ammo > nitrIte colony is so massive and powerful and eats ammo so quickly, that there is a short lag before the nitrIte > nitrAte bacteria cleans it up.

 

[eco23]

This wouldn't be a problem since fish will put in a small, steady stream instead of a big dose at once...but I know how meticulous you are, and it'd be a good final test to make sure it can hold low levels of ammo at 0.

 

[fddlss]

Yup, for example I just tested for nitrites about half an hour ago and they are at 0. Ammonia drops really fast but not nitrites. I will make sure I add only 1 PPM of ammo. This morning I wanted to add 1 PPM but I added 2, by mistake.

 

[eco23]

I wrote an article that will hopefully answer a bunch of the questions about fishless cycling. Hope it helps with what we've been posting about-
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling-148283.html

 

[fddlss]

Wow! That's great! It's very helpful. Good thing there's people like you! It should be in your signature.

I got a bottle of Prime las night and I have a quick question. On the bottle it says "If temperature is > 30 C (86 F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use half a dose." My temperature is 87 F and ammonia is low. Should I use half a dose?

By the way, it took less than 9 hours for ammonia to drop from 1 ppm, that I've added this morning, to 0, and nitrites are 1 PPM, I think they will drop to 0 in about 3 hours or so. In 9 hours or less ammonia dropped from 1 PPM to 0 PPM and nitrites to 1 PPM until now. I will do a PWC today, if I have time, or tomorrow, to drop nitrates. I will be stocking next week.

 

[fddlss]

Nitrites were down to 0 PPM at 9:30 PM, that's 13 hours after adding 1 PPM of ammonia. I was going to do a PWC today but I will leave it for tomorrow. Testing for KH and nitrates now.

 

[eco23]

Wow! That's great! It's very helpful. Good thing there's people like you! It should be in your signature.

I got a bottle of Prime las night and I have a quick question. On the bottle it says "If temperature is > 30 C (86 F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use half a dose." My temperature is 87 F and ammonia is low. Should I use half a dose?

By the way, it took less than 9 hours for ammonia to drop from 1 ppm, that I've added this morning, to 0, and nitrites are 1 PPM, I think they will drop to 0 in about 3 hours or so. In 9 hours or less ammonia dropped from 1 PPM to 0 PPM and nitrites to 1 PPM until now. I will do a PWC today, if I have time, or tomorrow, to drop nitrates. I will be stocking next week.

Have you tested the water parameters directly from your tap? You'd be shocked how much chlorine is actually in there. Ive always used the normal dosage, but I also use a Python for PWC's which makes my method for adding it a little different.

 

[fddlss]

I use a Python, too. I will go for the normal dosage, as well. It won't hurt, specially if I don't have any fish, and when I get the fish the temperature is going to be around 80 F, so that won't be a problem. By the way, I tested for KH and it seems pretty low at 3 dKH, being that African cichlids need at least 12 dKH. The API test liquid wasn't bright yellow, it was more of a soft yelowish, but I think that as soon as it turns from blue to yellow, no matter the tone of yellow, that's where your KH is, it took three drops to change color. Also, I just noticed that my pH has lowered a lot, it was 8.4 or 8.2 the last time I tested it after the cycle was completed, and now it's at 7.4, I don't know exactly since when because I have not been keeping an eye on pH but probably it changed either today or earlier this week. My tap water is around 8.4, by the way.

 

[eco23]

I use a Python to, I will go for the normal dosage, as well. It won't hurt, specially if I don't have any fish, and when I get the fish the temperature is going to be around 80 F, so that won't be a problem. By the way, I tested for KH and it seems pretty low at 3 dKH. The liquid wasn't bright yellow, it was more of a soft yelowish, but I think that as soon as it turns from blue to yellow that's where your KH is, it took three drops to change color. Also, I just noticed that my pH has lowered a lot, it was 8.4 or 8.2 the last time I tested it after the cycle was completed, and now it's at 7.4, I don't know exactly since when because I have not been keeping an eye on pH but probably it changed either today or earlier this week. My tap water is around 8.4, by the way.

Hi fddlss, I might have mentioned this before, but when you do a pwc with a Python the process is different. The steps are to turn off the filter, then drain the water as normal. Then you add Prime directly to the tank based on the full volume of the tank, not on how much water you are replacing. Swish it around real good to distribute it, then slowly add your new water in with your Python. This gives the Prime enough time to detoxify the chlorine / chloramines before spreading through your tank. By turning the filter off, it keeps the raw tap water from being sucked up into the filter and contacting your bacteria.

As for pH changes, this can be a normal part of the completed cycle. Check out my article and you'll see what you can do to control it and what causes it. Everything still sounds good! I'll be in touch.

 

[fddlss]

Yup, that's exactly how I do the PWC's. I was actually looking at your article right now about pH. Thanks!

 

[eco23]

Thanks so much for putting my article in your signature! It really means a lot. If we can get enough people reading it, maybe we can save a few fish together! Thanks.

 

[fddlss]

No problem. Thank you! for creating that article. It's a must read and very helpful. I'm sure we will save some fish and a few headaches. I was talking to one of the guys from the LFS that I go to, and they are good people but recommend cycling with "hardy" fish, and he was really surprised about me cycling with pure ammonia, he told me to tell one of the guys in the store about it, to see if he knew about it. It'S very disappointing that people like them don't know much about it.

 

[eco23]

No problem. Thank you! for creating that article. It's a must read and very helpful. I'm sure we will save some fish and a few headaches. I was talking to one of the guys from the LFS that I go to, and they are good people but recommend cycling with "hardy" fish, and he was really surprised about me cycling with pure ammonia, he told me to tell one of the guys in the store about it, to see if he knew about it. It'S very disappointing that people like them don't know much about it.

Sad thing is, lots of them know...nobody cares. I asked a manager at Petsmart a question about fishless cycling a long time ago, and she told me she wasn't allowed to answer on the topic. As I said in another thread, unfortunately, the only way we're going to make fishless cycling the norm is to overthrow the major chain stores and hire ourselves as employees.

 

[eco23]

Off to bed, see you tomorrow, good night.

 

[fddlss]

Yeah, I just don't accept the idea of fish as disposable animals, even if they are small, ugly, and hardy, it doesn't matter, if you don't love fish just don't get a fish tank. Period. You are right about the major chain stores, they barely know anything. At least local fish stores should give away brochures with info about how to fishless cycle for free and with every new tank, as a must read. It doesn't cost much to do and they could even start selling pure ammonia that it's so hard to find and make a few bucks if they worry about not selling cheap, "hardy" fish for cycles, but, like you said, they just don't care.

 

[fddlss]

Good night! I better get some sleep, too.

 

[fddlss]

Hi,

I will share with you the readings from my tap water, my tap water after being on a bowl for more than 24 hours, my aquarium water before a 60% PWC, my aquarium water after a 60% PWC, my aquarium water 12 hours after adding 1 PPM of ammonia.

These are the levels on my tank and my tap water: I know some of the tests are unnecessary for tap water but I still tested for it.

Tap water right from the faucet:
Ammonia: 0.50 PPM
Nitrite: 0 PPM
Nitrate: 0 PPM
pH: 8.4
GH: 3 dKH
KH: 2.5-3 dKH


Tap water sitting on the counter for more than 24 hours:
Ammonia: 0.50 PPM
Nitrite: 0 PPM
Nitrate: 0 PPM
pH: 7.4
GH: 2 dKH
KH: 2.5 dKH


Water from tank BEFORE doing a 60% water change on Wednesday night:
Ammonia: 0 PPM
Nitrite: 0 PPM
Nitrate: 80-160 PPM
pH: 7.4
GH: Didn't have a GH test.
KH: 3 dKH
Temp: 87 F


Water from tank AFTER doing a 60% water change on Wednesday night:
Ammonia: 0.25 PPM
Nitrite: 0 PPM
Nitrate: 40 PPM
pH: 7.4
GH: 3 dKH
KH: 3 dKH
Temp: 85 F


Water from the tank on Thursday afternoon, 12 hours after adding 1 PPM ammonia in the morning:
Ammonia: 0 PPM
Nitrite: 0 PPM
Nitrate: 40 PPM
pH: 7.4
GH: 5 dKH
KH: 3 dKH
Temp: 86 F

When adding 1 PPM of ammonia it takes about 10-12 hours (maybe less) for ammonia and nitrites to drop to 0 PPM.

I think I will need to buffer my water and increase pH in order to stock African cichlids, right?

Please let me know your opinion.

Thanks.

 

[Shadowraven]

For the lake cichlids you would. If I remember rightly, they like very alkaline water. The rest looks pretty good to me.