Convict2161
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yeah sounds like your cycling all over again. Sorry but were here to help.
It is a big deal when you are trying to DISCREDIT ME on this forum. THAT was very clear in that post you made, rivercat.
And that is WRONG, and is a PERSONAL ATTACK. BOTH are WRONG. Quite clear, and totally unprovoked by me, who has been a very facilitating and polite participant in this forum, albeit new. That was personal, rude, and WRONG to make this forum personal.
Second, you clearly do not understand what bioload is. And yet you have been dispensing advice like you are a biologist!. The definition of bioload is clear, and you are WRONG.
Check your FACTS before making postings next time, please. And it is NOT decorum, not polite to be ATTACKING other forum members, be they new or veterans. You of all people should understand that. Really poor behavior on your part.
Actually it doesn't release toxins back into the tank. Once it becomes full and is left in the filter it just becomes another media for BB to grow on.
More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Carbon:
Carbon has a finite amount of absorption/adsorption capability no matter the form. It's all about pore size. In addition to having significant amounts of phosphate and a higher ash concentration, cheap carbon will usually have very tiny pores (not enough absorption) or very large pores (not enough adsorption). It doesn't matter what form the carbon is in - at a chemical level this is still the same.
Quality carbon has a good mix of pore sizes, all of which should be in the middle of the scale. It will have lower amounts of phosphate and less ash. Be aware though, most carbon readily available in a retail environment has phosphates. You have to specifically look for steam-activated/phosphate-free, although I'm seeing that more and more these days. The nice part is that soaking the carbon before putting it in your tank will allow much of the ash and phosphates to leech out. If you're concerned about algae, this is an easy way to avoid the phosphate problem (which is really only an issue for marine tanks, but that's another subject).
Carbon gets "full" when the pores are full of pollutants. They're chemically bound to the carbon and so cannot be released into the water. So for all intents and purposes it becomes inert and bacteria start to grow on it. If you don't change it, it's just another form of bio-media. Generally this happens every 3-4 weeks. This varies based on the amount of carbon you're using and your water quality.
One thing to be clear on. Carbon does NOT remove ammonia, nitrites or nitrates, or most heavy metals. At all. It does absorb plenty though - chlorine, dyes, all sorts of alcohols, even bleach. It's great for driftwood as it absorbs tannins (to a degree). And perhaps most importantly in the aquarium, it removes most medicines. If you have to treat your tank, put some fresh carbon in when you're done.
Also, despite what you read on the Internet, you cannot re-use carbon by baking it in the oven. That is, unless you have an oven that goes to 1700°. That's the only way to burn off all the organics.
This has absolutely nothing to do with the OP's issue, but the question was asked and I just couldn't help myself.
I forgot to mention - the carbon should be the last thing the water sees on its way out. In my canister the water goes into the bottom and is pumped through the media to the top where it goes to the aquarium. If yours is like this, you'll want the carbon in the highest basket. If yours goes the other way, reverse it. Somewhere in there you should have some mechanical filtration though. In mine (an Eheim), the first is ceramic rings, then coarse sponge, then bio media, then fine sponge/floss (polishing), then carbon. You can always move stuff around to whatever arrangements you prefer, but I'd use the carbon last.
Also, knee-high pantyhose are your friend - they're cheap nylon bags, essentially. You can use them for all your loose media. I have my ceramic rings, bio-beads and my carbon all in separate bags. They're made in such a way that you don't even have to tie them off - the top of the nylon will shrink around the media. But if you prefer, it's easy enough to tie them in a knot. And they're fine enough to hold anything you're going to put in your filter. The only thing you'll have to watch is the gunk on the nylon itself. You can rinse it or just change the bag (which is what I do) when it too clogged up.
Glad it helped! I do have a tendency to go on a bit ...
Unfortunately I know very little about Purigen as it's a manufactured product made specifically for the aquarium industry. Not my speciality, I'm afraid, lol. I do plan to test it out though, at least get it under a microscope. It sounds a bit like a miracle cure, but people seem to like it. If I ever get some of my own data, I'll be sure to let you know.
Ok so ran a test last night around 10pm florida time
Ph 6.0
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Ammonia 0
7am test
Ph 6
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Ammonia 0
Haven't used any chemicals for the ph levels since a day or two ago. Any advice??
Booooo!
Ok. I have to drive to Jacksonville about an hour drive to petsmart the local pets stores done have have any. I was going to buy some more plants also.was thinking if some mondo grass? Any input?
Okay cool thanks for the advice on the plants they have a 15 pound bag of crushed coral for $13 how much of that do I use and how would I go about putting in a bag to hang in the tank
With your ph being so low your going to have to cycle again BUT first you need to get you ph up. What I recommend is getting a bag of crushed coral, putting about a cup in a media bag and either place it in your filter or hang it directly under your overflow. This will aid in raising your ph. Plus since you are so low I hate to say this but get a little cup of tank water and mix about 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda in it. Stir it up so it dissolves pretty well and add it to the tank, preferably where there is some water flow. Also add it slowly, don't just dump it in. This will give the water a little buffer boost to help until the crushed coral can kick in. Your tank won't start cycling until you get the ph up over 6.5 and keep it there.